Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Ring Them Bells | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Trippa Snippa — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
So many hard moves, definitely possible to fall at multiple spots. The red point will be a fight for sure. Cool hand jam at 4th bolt. The kind of routes that only grants you one good go per session.
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
22 |
★ Mortality P1
1
15
| 15m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Raglan | ||||||
Sky Castle | ||||||
21 | ★★ Return of the Space Cowboy - with Ashkan, Eric Liu | 15m | ||||
21 | ★★ Casual Healing - with Ashkan, Eric Liu | 12m | ||||
22 | ★ Like a Bad Smell — 2 attempts - with Ashkan, Eric Liu | 10m | ||||
Thu 7th Jul 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
24 | Thumbs Up | 13m, 5 | Average | |||
25 24 | ★★ Love Handle Expansion - with Nathan | 26m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
9 attempts over 4 sessions. Still had to fight for the send. Proudest ascent of this past year. Invested a lot of time and effort into this one, stoked to get it just before going away. 24 is a ludicrous proposition for this beast of a route.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
25 24 | ★★ Love Handle Expansion - with VillaBot | 26m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 attempts today. All free with one fall at the roof. Would be a 25 at most crags.
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Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Under the Thumb | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat
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24 | ★★ Love Handle Expansion | 26m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
All free with 2 hangs. Feels like it could go. Much harder than the 24s at Main Wall. Humbled by Lakeside once again.
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Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lunar Leopard | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
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Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | ||||||
23 | ★★ Hardon | 8m, 2 | ||||
Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Swell | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Power endurance pump fest. Not really my cup of tea at the moment... Bailed at the 4th bolt.
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Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★ White Christmas | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat
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19 | ★ One for the Boys Back Home | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Stiff for the grade as an onsight. #2ndGo
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Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Slab of Bolts/ Starting Small | 16m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ By Crikey, By Golly, By Jingoes | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat
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15 | ★ Radiant Gnomeworks | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Really stiff for the grade, going direct.
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23 | ★★ Wicked | 19m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Heel hooks for days. Great climb. #2ndGo
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22 | ★★ Hot Lava | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Didn’t trust the injured shoulder on the onsight attempt… #2ndGo
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
17 | ★ Green Spot | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Facetious | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 18th May 2022 - Kinloch | ||||||
Kinloch Crag (K1) CLOSED | ||||||
17 | ★★ Buckets In The Belfry | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | ★★ Electric Wizard | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 18th May 2022 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Puku Master | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
23 |
★ Popeye (Popeye P1)
| 13m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
I really should have onsighted this… #2ndGo
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Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Dogs Breakfast | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat
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Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
19 | ★★ Quarry Climbing | 12m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. As good as I remembered!
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Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lost Art | 12m | ||||
Fell, ripped all 4 pieces of gear, decked and went for the bonus tumble down the hill (taking Nathan along for the ride). Very lucky to escape with only bruised body and shattered ego.
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Chooma Island | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another hidden gem that deserves to see more traffic. Bouldery climb that offers welcome respite from the usual techy Waipapa climbing. Grade is spot on. #2ndGo
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19 | ★ Pining Away | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
23 | ★★ Fossil Free Zone | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6 attempts over 4 sessions. Probably on the harder side of the grade. Extending the 5th bolt helped as clipping became the stopper move. Great climb.
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21 | ★★★ Spartacus | 16m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Repeat. Probably one of the best 21s on planet Earth. So good.
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Honey Bee | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun, varied climbing.
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
23 | ★★ Fossil Free Zone | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
25 | ★★ Lock 'n' Rock | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got it #2ndGo but had the top bit dialed from having worked on ´Lock ´n’ Load’ recently. Similar difficulty to LnL, perhaps easier even.
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
26 | Kruger | 15m | ||||
Thought I was on Honey Bee (18), absurd route finding error. Techy 23-24 climbing up to 4th bolt where a blank face with shallow pockets awaits. A bit hard for a warmup…
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26 | ★ Utopia | 20m, 12 | ||||
Fitting name as it seems unattainable.
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
25 | ★★ Lock 'n' Rock | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 | ★★ Fossil Free Zone | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Hungry Hands - with Nathan, Alexei Drummond | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Ring Them Bells | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing route. Should be on everyone’s radar as a benchmark for that grade.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
24 | ★★ Lock 'n' Load | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
8 attempts over 3 sessions… psyched to finally tick this multi-year proj. Highly enjoyable from start to finish, would be a 3-star route at most crags.
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23 | ★★ Breaking Point | 15m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Possibly on the softer side of the grade and certainly easier than ´Robin’ and ´Fossil Free zone’. But 23 isn’t necessarily inconsistent with the grading of other routes at Main Wall. Cruxes at 3rd and last bolts. #2ndGo
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Ring Them Bells - with Ashkan, Elaine, Eric Liu | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Still really enjoyable.
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18 | ★ Dogs Breakfast | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. So hard for the grade, or maybe I go too direct?..
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Sun 3rd Apr 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ El Rayo-X | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
24 | ★ Technical Data | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Felt hard for my height, but 5cm more reach would turn the V4 crux into a V2 I reckon.
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20 | ★★ Love And Kisses For Jenny - with Nathan, Eric Liu, Elaine | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Out With The Boys | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Taken For Granted | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
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20 | ★ Muscle Graft | 17m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Need better core to send this. Don’t think 20 is really reasonable though.
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
25 | ★ Summer Time | 16m, 5 | ||||
Felt absolutely nails for the grade. Unless you’re meant to climb way out right but that wouldn’t make sense given the bolt positions.
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24 | ★★ Mister Heartbreak | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sunset send! Great crux sequence through the bulge. #3rdGo
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20 | ★★ By Crikey, By Golly, By Jingoes - with Ashkan, Elaine | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Hard for the grade as an onsight… V2-V3 boulder problem to get to the chains. #2ndGo
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Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Small Beginnings | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
18 | First Cut | 16m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Incredibly filthy. Hours of labour would be required before this one becomes even remotely fun to climb.
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25 | ★★ Brave Stranger | 20m, 4 | ||||
Not to be attempted without a stick clip or crash pads as the bouldery start up to first bolt is no walk in the park. Difficult, technical crux between 3rd and 4th bolts. Need better head game to try harder.
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★ Zing Zang Zoo | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Tony’s Route | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Crown Of Thistles | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, clean route with a punchy finish.
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
19 | Gremlins | 10m, 3 | ||||
Very nearly dynoed to a pocket full of wasps… close call!
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22 | ★★ Hung, Dogged, and Quartered | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice climb, quite technical. A bit of cleaning on the way down.
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18 | ★★ Counting The Days | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Spent ages cleaning this on the way down. The vegetation kept things exciting on the onsight. Could be worth 2 stars when clean.
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Gum's Gully | ||||||
25 | ★★ Pupation | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Feels impossible until you find the micro beta for the feet. Waipapa-style, open book stemming test piece. Great movement and bolting. Suits my style. #3rdGo
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Rapture | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Misread the route on the onsight and went too direct. Much easier using the arête. Cool, clean line. #2ndGo
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ Forget Me Knot | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 is quite generous… would be a 19 at some crags.
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22 | ★ Haul Or Bawl - with Elaine, Eu-Lee Teh, Nathan, Ashkan | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Only one short sequence of 22ish climbing so this one is probably on the softer side of the grade…
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17 | ★★ Fence Line | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ INOTIO | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Flash/onsight. Had to fight for it. Might be worth 2 stars when clean.
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20 | ★★ Dirty Little Secret | 9m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun bouldery climb.
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24 | ★ Honeytrap | 13m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Very similar to Spurt at Waipari, smaller holds but less steep. Not a bad climb but nothing to rave about. #3rdGo
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Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Winterlude | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
All in the legs. 18 is probably fair. Great climb.
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Mon 28th Feb 2022 - The Airstrip | ||||||
Valley Wall | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Download | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally!..
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Mon 28th Feb 2022 - The Airstrip | ||||||
Totem Area | ||||||
V4 | ★ Middle Direct | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V3 | ★★ Trilogy | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V6 | ★ Beanbag | ★ Good | ||||
V5 | ★★ Snap | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 27th Feb 2022 - The Airstrip | ||||||
Trackside | ||||||
V4 | ★★ The Foobler | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4 | ★★ Aquarius | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4 V5 | ★★ Aquarius Rising | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only marginally harder than the original problem, which isn’t too hard for V4 IMO. Same difficulty as ‘The Foobler’.
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V3 | ★ 2. V3 | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 27th Feb 2022 - The Airstrip | ||||||
Skyline Boulders | ||||||
V4 | Chock Stone | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V3 | ★ 19. V3 | 2m | ★ Good | |||
V4 V5 | ★ Spike Lee | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Felt about V4, the way I did it anyway.
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V2 | ★★ Groove | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V0 | ★ 4. VM+ | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V1 | ★★ B1 | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V0 | ★ 2. VM+ | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 | ★★ Dwarf Toss | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 21st Feb 2022 - The Pond | ||||||
Fins and Pinches | ||||||
V4 | ★★ The Fin | 3m | ||||
I don't get the start... contrived. Either it's a SS or you get to start on the positive fin; anything in between is silliness.
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Mon 21st Feb 2022 - The Pond | ||||||
Pushing Up Daisies | ||||||
V0 | ★ Pushing Up Daisies | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 21st Feb 2022 - The Pond | ||||||
Hit the Roof | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Hit the Roof | 5m | ||||
Half-hearted effort to save strength/skin for the proj, but looks like a 3-star route...
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Mon 21st Feb 2022 - The Pond | ||||||
Pushing Up Daisies | ||||||
V1 | Pulling on Dandelions | 3m | Average |