Ascents by Brendan Heywood having Sport CPR

First go today

I loved this to bits, one of the best sends of the trip and good to project something. In the end felt much easier than some of the much lower graded things that we've tried elsewhere. Great way to finish off the trip

Sick

Second go

Send! Stoke is high. Executed the bouldery first section perfectly in 2 mins. Then took me around 6 tentative goes up and down over 25 mins to get comfortable with the 5th clip and then slapped and thrutched my way to freedom. It did not climb the way I'd visualized.

Glad to finally get on this and send after its long incubation period, got it 3rd go

Got it clean 3rd go, worked out so high step beta for the second high crux

Fresh body, turned up late when Michael had just sent and did it clean first go

Repeat for the paparazzi. Did something weird at the top and missed a hold and did a funky rockover to finish

Had one flash pumpy burn, figured out the start which ended up being the quite straight forward and exactly how I originally thought it would go. Had a second hang at the 3rd bolt which is probably the true crux. Clean second go. The end feels spicy but you just keep moving and its totally fine.

YUS! 3 goes, first was typical flash pump first route of the day. Second was a pretty close one hang. Three is a charm! It is still winter but the sundeck was cooking

Lots of figuring out, a few popped holds. Burly start and delicate consistent slab moves with another little crux to the glory jug

Very stoked to onsight this, pure thuggy fun

Clean on top rope first go, then took maybe 4 goes to get it clean on lead. Everything is subtle, every try I used different holds and took a while to settle on a sequence

Two guys working this let me have a quick top rope to clean it as the sun had just hit it. Got to the crux and got the sequence and just peeled off the jug on half pads. After that is a few steep jugs and home free. Would be a great to come back in the morning shade.

After a few goes it looked like this thing might be way too staunch. Micro beta sorted it out, little far right side pull, lean left to chip and very careful match, then power through the slopers and up to the easier stuff before gravity realized what you did. It's hard to judge how many goes when you get shut down on the second move, maybe 5

Completely intimidated by this but quickly also got very psyched. Wild moves through the roof and proper knee bar tactics are gold. After the second burn a bee stung me on the right calf. Got it third try

Scrubbing, worked out all the moves

First go wasn't sure where to pop to the letter box, got it second go. A mist of fine bugs

Felt great, hit the dyno perfect on the first time for the first time (instead of slapping, fall, catch, re-adjust and go again) and then moved to the roof jugs statically. Had an explore through the next 4 or so moves before splashing down

A sweet beast, improbably good rock and features. Got to the missing square and then headed left into a little chip. Next obvious goal is to keep linking to the swallows nest

Watched Benji clutch desperately at what he said was not a good hold and decided to give try it, lo and behold I stuck it and wicked stoked to unlock the next couple meters to the super juicy birds nests.

Real cool little line. Was expecting a fight but flashed it and felt solid all the way

Ben had a solid crack at this but dogged at the last bolt crux. I had a go on top rope and found a different sequence that was pretty ok through the crux. Again probably should have gone back for the pink point but we moved on

Note a proper tick as I mistakenly finished at the anchors of Sweet thing

Prawned at crux

Also fell on the start! Felt less easy the second time but did the top fine. Munted my right ankle a little and Ben and carol both did similar damage

Waited for a while and warmed up on the woodie and then got this first try. Cold and windy

Had a good working go, and then I was pretty confidant I could get it, then had 3 frustrating burns all getting through the crux statically and then messing up the last move to the glory jug. Next time when I'm fresh

Great rock, cool features down low. Did all the moves and the dyno side jump finish is cool and works for over the minging off balance crimps

Warmup

Should scrub up with traffic into an ok little route, still the odd loose bits. The start is nice.

The old sling at the top was totally ghetto

One hard move and you're on the way, another lovely additional to the family

Sick! I haven't climbed here in roughly 17 years, and the last time was hilarious as a complete bumbly with no guidebook attempting one of these routes and failing epically. Maybe half a dozen burns. Is great to siege a hard sports route, it's been a long long time...

Stoked to onsight this, blind moves. Think I mostly fluked it great quality rock

A mix of slab and jams from tips to fists, nice finish to glory jug

A super fun first route

Very sustained, a low crux right off then great up to the wide crack at 2/3 for a good rest. Then the doom music kicks in for the finale! Was pretty done by here and prawn dogged the last few meters

Super stoked with how this route turned out! It's what gara has been missing: easy sport with good clip stances on great water worn rock, interesting features with a crux at the finish and with a clean top out and top rope access.

Pulled through the first crux just fine, popped a foot at the second crux for a one hang

Very cruisy, full body rest at first bolt for kicks. Nice little cruxy finish

Fairly cruisy, maybe 19 until the crux kicks in on the second face

Rapped off and jugged up taking pics of Sasha, who all-but sent this

Threaded a sling through the hole for a first clip but isn't needed