Ascents as Hang dog as sport by Alexei Drummond

Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.

First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.

Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it

Putting the gear up on this monster face climb. Really nice position on a huge face towering over the canyon. Technical thin climbing for 3-4 bolts in the middle. Eases off on some fun moves for the last 5 bolts.

Putting the gear on for Alex. Maybe a little harder than I gave it credit for yesterday as I fell on both cruxes trying to warm up on it today.

Third go. Got to the last holds before the jug at the anchor. The left sloper had gotten wet from the seepage again (the climb was wet at the top today making it a bit tricky to finish). Got stuck with a high right foot and wet slopers for holds and couldn't reverse back in order to change course. Fell at the last hold again. Then got rained off. Oh well.

Second go. Fell on the very last move to the jug for clipping the anchors. What a fool.

(Wet) warm up. Mostly easy except one move at the bulge where the damp footholds put me off smearing and I fell trying to do it a stupid way. Pulled back on and went to the top.

Third attempt. Fell going for the clipping hold for the anchor. Pumped out of my mind. Cool route! I don't know if it is because this is the fifth day on, or because I am just not fit enough. The moves are all easy.

Second attempt. Fell going for the clipping hold for the anchor. Pumped out of my mind.

Really good route but I didn't spread them when I should have and paid a heavy price

Awesome route, too pumpy for a good warm-up for me.

Sad I chose to climb this on a day I was so wrecked from a week of little sleep and a long day travelling. It is an awesome route.

So destroyed today that I couldn't even do the last two moves of this 21 as a cool down

4 hours sleep, 10.5 hours travelling makes a 22 a hard warm-up

3rd go overall. High point. Went for the left hand dead point above the last bolt. Got it, but my fingers wouldn't crimp properly. Just had one more move to do and the crux was over

Flash attempt. One hang after 4th bolt. Really annoyed because I went for the dyno option and knew I was going to fall short on the way up. Felt I could have done it statically to make sure of the flash.

Second attempt overall. One hang on the final bolt. Got to the final crux after clipping the last bolt. Didn't have the beans for the last deadpoint to the left hand crimp. Very close! I know all the moves now and just have to get to the top with enough energy do the last crux move

Silly slip on my flash attempt. But I would have probably come off at the last bolt anyway, which seems like the crux. I did all the moves fairly easily and the route seems suited to me. Hopefully I can get another go on this fresh!

A really cool route. But I was way too scared to whip on the crux bolt because it was beyond rusty. I called take and gingerly weighted it before going to the top. Super psyched to get this rebolted so I can give it a second burn!

Flubbed the transition to slab

Very close to onsight. Came off in sea of lichen over the lip after the crux.

Apparently you shouldn't just try forever if you currently don't have the ability. At least Alex had some good goes on Gone Bimbo!

Third go. Made the mistake of going again too soon and also trying to change up the beta to set up for the gaston. Comedy of errors. If I come back this should go after putting the gear up. One hang again.

Flash attempt. Had good beta. But didn't hit the big gaston move and hung on the 4th bolt. Went to the top for a one hang.

Third go of the day. Matched high point (why can't I do that move from the ground?!), hung at 4th. Then did both cruxes and all the way to anchor clean! Low point and one hang! Massive progress. Just need a good go and this thing is going down next session

Second go of the day. Matched high point, hung at 4th, did first crux, hung at 5th after falling in second crux. Then climbed through second crux to the anchor. Low point and two hang.

First go of the day. Matched high point, three hangs to the top.

High point. Clipped 4th bolt and then did the start of the main crux, but couldn't get the right pinch. Proceeded to the top in a few hangs, clipping all the draws and anchor properly.

Was still flash pumped when going again to clean it off

Attempt at flashing this for the warm up. Clipped all the bolts and then flash pumped a couple of moves below the anchor

Dry fired unexpectedly off of slopey edge at the last bolt.

Third go of session. Got to 9th hold feeling really strong and going to the 10th hold which is the last cruxy move. during this move my left foot hold exploded off the wall 🙀! High point at least

Pulled back on to 9th hold and did the move with lower foot, clean to the top including clipping anchor and mantle. So a one hang, high point and low point. The move to 10th hold is fine with a slightly lower foot hold at least

Third attempt on lead. First hang dog on lead. Clipped the draws and the anchor and did the mantle. Unfortunately not cleanly. Now I will wait for a week for my skin to be fully healed But at least made some progress.

Second tie-in of the day. Failed repeatedly on the first deadpoint. Fingers already a bit trashed and hard to make myself hold on with the skin pain.

First tie-in of the day. Climbed through the first boulder. But then rested on the rope because my fingers were not warmed up Then climbed through the second boulder clean for the first time. Went to top to practice moves and clipping positions.

Shouldn't have bothered with a third tie in. My skin was too painful and my fingers too tired to give it a good go. I just pulled up and refined the top a bit more.

Second tie in of the day. Surprised myself by working out how to go to the pocket next to the first bolt with the left hand. After that I managed to unlock the right sequence for the second boulder problem. Very intensive on the foot work. But I did all the moves on this tie-in so I guess I just have to link it all together (and get on lead?)

After a false start I climbed the bottom crux to the first bolt cleanly. The second crux after the first bolt seems a bit harder. Top is easier after second crux. Apparently there is no such thing as "working" on top rope

Been three years since I last jumped on this. Had to remember the moves.

Nice easy warm up. Unfortunately I got out of sequence under the anchors and called take. Immediately did the move and was annoyed at myself.

Getting pretty good at the mantle and even did it with the right hand in the slot this time to mix it up. Pity I keep f*cking up the move between bolt 3 and 4.

Too many holds so didn't remember the beta between 3 and 4

Putting the gear up.