Routes in Blackheath Area for selected grade

Stand start of left arete. Starts on edges to reach arete and top out up arete several moves until you naturally roll over the top

Nice boulder that sit-starts on face and heads towards arete to top-out

The short steep v5 on the far right of the amphitheatre.

Sit-start under roof right of CCCM (right of the trench above too). Make a few moves up on edges out the bulge via a little scope/pocket edge for the left and finish at jug. Nothing special, but nothing too offensive either

Some fairly large moves on some less large holds. Careful of the veg at the start.

Overhanging thin crimping on wall right of chimney of BMTAS.
 Can start as per BMTAS (trad) or Dancing on the People and traverse in on ledge to belay bolts halfway up wall.
 Get established in chimney and spooky traverse to first bolt.
 Thin crimping in exposed position across wall to hit arete and follow to top.

The king line of the crag up the guts of the wall. Take care with the teetering blocks at the start.

Crux has been done as a dyno, slimp highstep or a static skinshredding handjam. Easy wall to roof, over this to break - get past this to next break (crux) and mantle onto ledge. Finish up tricky orange wall above. Some great waterwashed rock on this.

A tale of five mantles. Right most route on the wall with prominent shelf jutting out about 8m up. Long draws useful to reduce rope drag. Has some lovely water-polished rock but is very stop start.

Start: Left side of the arete following flakes. This is where the track from the road comes out.

Mixed extension to Once You Bolt Crack. Pass the anchors and 5 bolts get you through the crux, then gear to the top. Gear is quite specific. FA placed green and yellow aliens, single set of C4s from 0.5 to 2, though more could be placed.

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Start behind the tree 12m R of Iron Mike. Batman start. Depending on the length of your draws it may be wise to extend the 4th so it doesn't grind your rope on the little lip if you whip. One of the dryest routes at Shipley when the seepage lines are all pumping down the rest of the wall.

Another route that is unfairly overshadowed by its 'three star' neighbours. Up the log and first two bolts as for The Eviscerator then traverse 5m L to the lefthand line of bolts.

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux. Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended, then take the righthand line of bolts off this log.

As for LOD to second ring, step L, follow rings (long slings), then find a way through the overlap at its right end and onto the headwall above (rings) where things get interesting.

Starts at arête 8m L of SAL. Joins SAL for the last few bolts.

Obvious thin face and sexy looking blank corner. Stick clip the 1st bolt, then back clean it to avoid bad drag. A bit glued up, but great climbing. Don't cop out to the arete at the top! 70m rope required to lower off.

Has loose bolts.

Start: As for 'Back Hand Tosser' and finish as for "Hip Shake Jerk' Apparently you have to avoid the chip to earn the grade.

A great piece of climbing which, apart from the avoidable final chip on HSJ, is all natural since the original start chips were repaired in the 90s. Batman to first bolt then great bouldery moves lead over the hollow block into continuous climbing which trends L to finish as for HSJ.

The all free version, if you didn't pull on the 1st bolt.

Start about 5m L of TYMG, L of the hanging prow. Stick clip very high first bolt above the vegetation, and batman.

3 tip tearing boulder problems.

One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

A bit of monkeying around. The glue is cracked all the way around the first bolt.

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

The last route at the far left end of White Linen Wall, only about 10m to the right of Jaws on Wave Wall.

Extension to Rubber Lover. From the anchors head up and left (runout) to the anchors of Microwave keeping away from the top of the cliff.

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of Tsunami then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

One bolt extension of Jaqueline Hyde.

Start 5m R of WO. Another excellent long route, with a confounding crux. Originally 24 but confirmed 26 these days and even so it's not soft. And once you do link past the crux, keep your wits about you on the technical finish!

Not the best route on the wall but still pretty good. The shorter line between Sail Away and Black Heathen.

Desperate arete hugging. Start a few metres right of Chook Lotto.

The bolted direct of The Mind Boggles remained unclimbed for well over a decade before an Italian snuck in for the sneaky send. Looks thin and blank!

slab 5 m right of Pyro. Technical slab climbing. You'll either love it or hate it!!!! Depending on your skills could be anything between 25-27!!

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

Left of BCC. High stickclip, belay in 'the hole'. Up through disintegrating ceiling. Burly and steep. F.a didnt clip either of the Jumbo u bolts on send.

Route 1m L starting at the big shark-fin hold. Quite cruxy!

5m L of ASITD at the black face with small rooflet. Start at flake. Stickclip, then very powerfully up and right to tough second clip. Very thin to the third, then relax, it's in the can.

Clamber to ledge via rungs and rope. Route starts off log and was done WITHOUT bridging into the corner.

Far left route. Climbs steeply diagonally left to slick fused corner.

An impressive line! Shared start for several bolts with Boisterous then truck left onto arete and overhung wall above.

Major corner right of Boisterous for a few bolts then climbs the right wall and through gut wrenching mega roof above. The final flake to the anchor isn’t solid, needs to be fixed.

Mostly trad with four ring bolts. "If you fall off the top you may strip all the gear".

Starts just left of blunt arete below the vague headwall flake/crack. You should be able to see an old biner on the second bolt. Climb 30m or so of moderate, very runout, weird, grit stone slabbing past two bolts and some very questionable trad to a small stance. From here boulder past two more bolts and steel yourself for the final run up the incipient flake feature on some average gear. Finishes at DBB above little roof, either rap 60m back to the ground or scramble off right.

You can access the top of this route for pre-inspection (recommended) by walking to the commercial abseiling spot with rungs and 10000 sets of anchors and setting up on the left most ones (looking in). Run the rope through the buses to the climbers left of the main abseil route and you should be able to abseil diagonally left to find the bolts at the top.

Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp.

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.

Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.

1. 26m (26) Up easy stuff and left under roof, up flake and through bulge to belay.

2. 30m (25) Right to thin crack, up it, then right to arete and up.

Artistic. Lower off chains of Vampy.

Still has the tag, but has been freed at 26.

Arete 1m right of Firebug. Up Firebug for 4m then swing right onto the face below the nose. Either stickclip super high first bolt, or place two medium cams.

Start up the rungs about 7 metres right from arete. Sweet Mountains climbing.

Links Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller into Soak up the Atmosphere on the right, and avoids the top crux of I.H.S.T.

Second Pitch of Intergalactic Atmospheric Traveller, or abseil in from the top. It's the big right leaning seam you can see from the ground on the right side of the cliff. Be cautious with the big plates between first and second bolt. Fridge hugging dyno crux....

Extension is open for takers.

Steepness. Good fun pumper. Start on the far left side of the cave just next to the rungs. Traverse to arete and up. Rebolted July 2021.

Steep and very pumpy. Bouldery rightwards traverse under the roof (staying low) for 5m then let the big dynamic moves begin. The climbing above bolt 4 is three star awesomeness on glorious orange pocketed rock.

Thin crack (with bolts) 2m right of Bellbird Wall.

1. 40m (23) Up seam carck to big ledge then up right to semi-hanging belay

2. 35m (26) Hard move past 4 bolts, right to a rest and up. 15 draws.

3. 20m (20) Up wall as for Stone Poem

Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .

1. 25m (20) - Easy slab, face climbing. Up corner, flakes and crack. Some fragile rock. Take care on top out. There is loose rocks your belayer won't want on their head. DBB for P2

2. 40m (26-28?) - Insane pitch up crack and arete to upper bulge. The crux at 2/3 height is very cool. Come out of the corner, onto arete and face and span to a committing pop. Then easy and to ledge and TBB (18ish bolts?)

3. 25m (26-28?) - Pull mini roof to some balancy face climbing. Scoot around little prow then up and right, then back left and up to ledge and TBB. (Not sure what is happening with old rope, gear. Needs taking out).

4. 30m (26-28?) - Easy off ledge to little roof boulder. Airy and committing through roof. FA involved swinging wildly off the jug to establish toe hooks and heel hooks on lip then hands follow. Up balancy prow to ledge and TBB.

5. 30m (25) - Fantastic swooping pitch across vertical wall. Could be a sting in the tail. Up to ledge and DBB.

6. 15m (10) - scramble through vegetated corners out left to topout. Clip bolt on small exposed slab after top out then belay off big gum tree out right. 120cm sling or use your climbing rope as anchor.

The awesome continuation of Red Bellied. Take a breather in the cave then get pumped for what essentially boils down to three punchy moves up the blackrock. Could be soft (and static) for tall folks.

1. 30m (26) Steep arete. This pitch is excellent. Stick clip first bolt, jug on up to brilliant crux section and veer left to maintain quality climbing and gain comfortable belay/lower off. May lose a grade with chalk and draws on? Unexpected first shot at end of long day.

2. 25m (17) Heave Ho left then long line on ironstone to top and crag rap in anchors.