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XXXX

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 10
  • Ascents: 10
  • Aka: 4X

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

March 2020 - many climbing crags and campgrounds in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Pierces Pass, Dam Cliffs, Mt York, Bardens, parts of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

Some public campgrounds are closed - including Mt York & Perrys Lookdown.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 20 days ago

Seasonality

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Description

A bouldering crag with some OK problems - generally good landings and many climbs don’t need a crash pad.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Head Zig Zag but instead of following the track down the hill keep walking straight ahead and then rightwards along the top of the cliff, down a little gully and along a bit more and you are there

Alternate access: 4X is now more easily accessed from Kenny St. Just follow the new fire trail to Engineers Cascade and walk down the gully and you're at 4X.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Pockety traverse - before the main area (from the Engineers Cascade side) - probably want a pad for this one.

Start under cave - throw to the right and up to top out

Start as for for Albino Redback but straight(ish) up.

Start as for Albino Redback and finish at top of Frostbite

Start below and left of white lichen, throw for the jug and easy to top.

Start on low jug one metre left of gum tree - follow jugs up to water stain top out (down climb campus top out to climbers right).

Obvious campus problem next to Garth’s arete. Good hands and absolutely no feet.

Find the glued on hold next to campus top out and follow chalk to the top.

Slopey low traverse - ends at water stain or extend to Miles Davis for added grades

Low slopey traverse. Second half of Miles Davis.

The full traverse - left to right - finish on high orange jug near tree. Individual moves are probably V1/V2, but it’s a long pumpfest.

Juggy slab right of main area (looking in)... easy, but pretty high.

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