Routes in Mt Alexander for selected grade

Climb the arête from a stand-start. Pinchy moves lead to a throw to a good hold. From here head left to finish up the slab.

First move as for de ja vu then right reversing Sidney Crosbie and finishing up Babymoon. No use of the top until exit up BM. Will also have an extension into LOR.

Start as for DJV, traverse right reversing SC, get established on vertical rail start of LOR and finish as for LOR (big foot ledge being in).

Start as for National Park using the undercut and side-pull below. Right hand goes to a hold on the face. Hold the tension (feet on block) and get a higher hold with the left hand. From here, get your left foot up, steady and then go to the top with the left hand. Top section is a lot easier for the tall. Use the block for feet at the start but you get established with a higher left foothold prior to going for the top (unless you're a giant).

Sit-start on the lowest two side-pulls and climb the overhanging face on positive holds. Holds right of the arête (on the slab) are out of bounds for hands and feet. Low square notch on the arete is in. Top out to finish.

Sit-start on the largest holds in the low break (not quite at the far right-hand end). Traverse leftwards, slapping and heel-hooking, until better holds permit a reachy rock-over to finish. Nice line but tricky to keep your feet off the ground.

Sit-start and up the wall to finish with a tricky mantle.

Sit-start and climb up to the layaway. Traverse left to finish using the detached block.

Traverse L to R and finish up Nature Break.

Sit start with left hand on undercling as for HW&C and right hand in the bottom of crack. Up crack to dynamic move to join top of LS&2SB.

Very classy climb with some great moves. Located 40m downhill from Hispaniola. Sit start with both hands matching low undercling. Up and left via undercling and featured arete. Don’t stack pads for full experience.

Stand start and climb the thin crack/wall to the break and an easier crack to top out.

Obvious thin crack located 60m southeast and across creek from Hispaniola. Sit start with left hand high in crack and right hand low on side-pull. Tough start leads to easier top out.

Low sit start to OLLs using the two lowest layaways. A couple of tough pulls to gain its start.

Stand start and climb the slab and groove. The crux is topping out on small holds and slopers, before reaching left to a good hold. A great line.

Sit start with pinch and small edge. Make a big move out left to good slot, then continue along seam to top out on slopers.

Sit start and climb arete. A great climb.

Sitstart and move up to top out on the right arete. Hard.

Stand start and climb Parallel Lives but top out to the left not right,

Stand start with low RH edge and gastons or undercling LH 1.5m left of press bias. The big loose flake to left and all holds on PB are out of reach so don’t go wandering! Up via cool line of lay away edges to an insecure finish. A pull on start has been done at V9 but requires a bit of stabilisation of footholds. Will write it up when sorted.

Sit start on undercling incut out right, below generous ledges. Go straight up: traversing left to the arete feels like another line but it's not eliminated. Tension through thin crimps via a funky kick. Dicey top, don't coast off.

The glorious arete on the left end of the orange face. Stand start and compress to gain jug at 2/3 height. 2 mantles see you home from there. Has a directional bolt for TR above finish. ABSEIL DESCENT.

Sit start matched on the good low jug. Gaston, heel hook, and sharp edges up the arete. No rocking over early - top out at the apex.

A little bit gritty but the moves are decent.

Sit start and climb up the prow.

Stand-start and climb the wall and arete. Sustained and fingery.

Located on a boulder on the edge of quarry. Sit-start on the obvious notch/hold and then climb the sharp arete. Tricky in full sun!

Stand-start and climb the arete on the right hand side. Mantle over arete to finish.

Right left to traverse along the bottom of a cliff. Stand-start at the right end of the obvious feature. Traverse leftwards easily on big holds until you get to loose holds/crack in the corner. Make a hard left hand gaston on the vertical feature on the headwall above the roof, match on this feature and then get the left arete. Matching the feature and getting the arete is the crux. Finish in the chimney. Rock is crumbly in places.

Sit start and climb the rounded arete/wall. Can be done from a stand start at around V2. This boulder is just in front of The Crack boulder.

Allow both hands to bite into the high crimp rail on the wall/arete. With feet on nothing make a long reach to the crack on the left wall. Finish up here.

50m down the hill past The Wall. down the hill. A lone blob of smooth marbely stone. Start with right hand in good slot under the roof, left in slopey jam. Tension to establish on the nose of the overhang, then powerful moves to a slopey ledge.

That moment in a rock over where if you stall you end up 2 feet short of the hold. Cute little line left of MC. Start LH on slope rail, RH on good low hold then up via slopes crimps and slimps to Gaston into the scoop. Finish straight up.

Start matched on the lowest hold and campus the first move - don't stack pads. Stand start.

The sit start version of Dreamer Deceiver. Adds length, style and funk!

Stand start and climb the arete. Finish with a mantle on the left hand side.

From the crimps on the lip, head up and left through small sharp holds and heel hooks.

Start as for Arlo and Jez Build a House. Sitstart and then move left to the large leaning rail feature. From here traverse left and up following the seam until topping out at the highest point. The landing slopes away which is a bit disconcerting. Crux is the first half of the traverse. Eases with height. It's a great line. EDIT (17/10/19): Changed grade to V6 on reflection.

Tough stand start matched on the obvious hold on the left side of arete between AtA and FT. Hard for the grade. Will go from a sit start via a couple of proper hard moves. Static start for the grade, V6 with a hop.

The brother to Live Forever. Sit start at the jugs on the left hand side and traverse right and up to finish up the mantle of Live Forever. Really good.

Height dependent kick up to the massive side-ledge, then press mantle. Start hands matched on the blunt arete.

Sit start and top out directly. Best route in the area on quality rock.

Beautiful chainsaw toothed finger crack 5m to right of Into the Wild. Will go from a sit but will up the ante to V8/9. Start with right hand on obvious gaston sloper and left lower in the seam. A solid opening gambit gains the juggy horn... and then the fun starts! I would have graded this V6 but its a grade harder than Out of The Wild so V7 it is.

Sit-start and traverse leftwards to top out.

Stand-start and climb the bulging arete.

Climb the thin wall to large holds and traverse right to the big ramp. Finish up the ramp.

Sit-start way at the back of the roof on the right, and climb out through the tight gap and then up the face. Don't lean on the sidewall of the adjacent boulder. Might be closer to V8..... pumpy.

Three metres right of Conflict Diamond. Stand start with a high right foot and tiny holds.

Start matched on the obvious jug. Mantle with a high heel and crimp on the face. Slab top out. Located on the edge of the quarry. Might be easier or harder than v6.

Sit start at low mega jug flake right side of the trackside face. Straight up via some tricky tenuous moves to gain the obvious bulb then mantle. I was all over the show today so grace could be out. These had chalk in them so will see what they thought...

Sit-start just left of the crack and move up the crimps, veering leftwards, to a hard finish. [Jump/traverse off].

Climb the wall and right arete just right of the bouldering slabs. Stand start.

Climb the wall left of Finger Food to top out. High

Traverse seam right then head up thin edges to DRB at the top.

This and the next few routes/problems all lie in a cluster of boulders to the right of the main approach path before you get to the courtyard.

Stand-start and climb the obvious groove. Use holds either side to help but finish directly above the groove. Technical. There is a large loose flake on the right at about 1/3 height - use this for your feet but try not to lever it off!

Located to the right of the path when you approach Dog Rocks. Traverse the sloping boulder from right to left, starting matched on the rail and finish with a mantle on the god holds out on the far left hand side. A touch stiff?

Eliminate line near the arete to the right of The Dyke using a right-hand sidepull and left-hand crack-crimp to reach crimps/slopers, and then move left to jugs and top out. No arête on right.

Sit-start and climb the clean wall via technical moves.

Crouch start low on the arete (don't stand on the adjacent boulder). Climb the arete on it's right-hand side to half-way. Then move left to jugs and climb up via tricky moves to a slabby finish.

Around the corner from HBA. Stand-start and climb the left-hand wall of the blank face via long reaches to a big potato hold. From here move up and left, swarming around the arete to finish. Solo after top rope.

Great climbing up interesting edges, arete and quartz feature. Sit start with a thin pinch for left and an incut crimp for right, small foothold down left.

Amazing overhanging line up an incredible feature. Sit start using the detached block for footholds and climb diagonally up and left to the crux just before the lip. No kneepads/kneebars for full tick.

Start Durin's Bane and exit right up the slab. Climbed without the detached foot flake

Start to the left of Durin's Bane in patch of lighter coloured flakes and climb straight up into end of Durin's Bane. LH start on big pinch/sidepull. RH start on low small two-finger undercling. The close detached block for footholds is on.

📹 Grit or Greed

Cramped sit down start, matched on the low triangular crimp. Hard moves have you move out to the face left of the arete into a tricky mantle

Short burley climbing up a steep face. Sit start matched in horizontal crack and climb up to lip and tricky mantle.

Sitstart and climb the left side of the arete. Sitstart spanned using arete for the right and a big hold way out left for the left hand. A good climb.

Climb the thin wall right of Sprint Finish - harder than it looks. Could sneak to V7.

Extended start to Simple Sugars starting on big holds at the tree and doing a few moves including a tricky drop-down to get into the original problem. Finish as for Simple Sugars.

Sit-start and climb the groove to a long and hard move gaining the sloping edge on the blank wall. Another tricky moves gains the rock scar above and an easier topout.