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Boundary Lane

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

Park near the Mt Alexander sign at the far south of Joseph Young drive (when approaching from the south) and you can see the boulders on the left.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Extended start to Simple Sugars starting on big holds at the tree and doing a few moves including a tricky drop-down to get into the original problem. Finish as for Simple Sugars.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 14 Sep 2018

Slightly arbitrary start, matched on the sidepull hold on the front of the face. Traverse to the right around the corner to top out more easily via the obvious sloping shelf for your feet and large sidepull/undercling for your hands. Large footholds most of the way for a change!

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Sep 2018

Backside of Simple Sugars boulder. Short. Also the descent route off the boulder.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Sep 2018

Climb the arete - a bit crumbly and committing.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 6 Oct 2018

Climb the arete from a stand-start. Start and finish on the right-hand side with a brief foray onto the left in the middle. Crux top-out.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 15 Aug 2019

Sit-start and climb the groove to a long and hard move gaining the sloping edge on the blank wall. Another tricky moves gains the rock scar above and an easier topout.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 15 Aug 2019

Right hand line stand starting at big edges. Up with increasing thinness to a crux top out.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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