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Routes in South-Western Ontario for selected grade

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Showing all 44 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff Buckingham Area
5.4 Hot Stuff

Starts at 4B and climbs up and diagonally to the right, crossing 'Jiminy Cricket' and 'Pinocchio'.

Trad
Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff Plaque Area
5.4 Creepy Crawly

Start in the chimney behind 'Showpiece'.

Trad
5.4 Finale

Starts at number 9. Starts in a groove and climbs roughly straight up with good gear and holds. Polish at the beginning makes it feel harder than 5.4.

Trad 20m
Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff Stream Area
5.4 Sinusitis
Trad 25m, 2
Halton Region Rattlesnake Point East Cliff
5.4 Abzweigen

Starts at number 23A.

Trad
5.4 Wary

Start at number 24.

Trad
5.4 Easter Bunny
Trad
5.4 Voyageur

Start at number 29C.

Trad 25m
5.4 Pedro

Start at number 36.

Trad
5.4 Surprise

Start at number 38.

Trad
5.4 Roger's Route

Start 2m right of number 38.

Trad
5.4 Wanderweg

Start at number 40.

Trad
Halton Region Mount Nemo Gooseberry
5.4 No Sweat

Starts at number 36

Trad
5.4 Early Morning
Trad
Halton Region Mount Nemo Dead Zone
5.4 Steep Corner

Starts at number 29A.

Trad
Halton Region Mount Nemo Ivory Tower
5.4 X Curved Chimney Descent

An exposed and uncomfortable descent, with the worst moves being right at the top. Recommended to climb up a few times to find the holds before downclimbing.

Trad
Halton Region Mount Nemo New Wall
5.4 The Last Root

Starts at number 23. Take the right facing corner to a ledge to its left, then climb left to the top.

Trad
5.4 Paleozoic Pain

Start below a big ledge with a cave right of number 28A. Climb to the ledge, then traverse left until it narrows; then do a layback and crack to the top.

Trad
Halton Region Mount Nemo Cat's Tail Wall
5.4 Ray's Ceiling
Trad
Halton Region Mount Nemo Camel Wall
5.4 Double Lead

Start at number 48. Climb the cracks beneath a large roof up and left past the roof. Continue up and left to the top.

This route does not have anchors, although if you go right at the top, you can use the anchors from 'Reg's Route'.

Trad 25m
Halton Region Mount Nemo Big Gulp Area
5.4 The Head Mucky Mucky

Climb the blocks to a nice finger sized crack. Pleasant jams lead up the crack to big jugs around the anchors. Pro is fantastic in the crack but practically non-existent for the first 25' (easy easy 5th class)

Trad 17m
Halton Region Mount Kelso Fraggle Rock
5.4 Vegetable
Trad
Halton Region Mount Kelso Eastern Wall
5.4 Rick's Ramble
Trad 25m
5.4 Walt's Wilt

FA: Walter Robinson, 1950

Trad
Halton Region Mount Kelso West Buttress
5.4 Wally's Groove

Starts at number 4.

Trad 25m
Halton Region Bottle Glass Pinnacle Area
5.4 Unknown 5.4

An easy top-rope climb. Not much to say.

If anyone knows the name, please add it.

Top rope 8m
Halton Region Bottle Glass Stonewall Area
5.4 Redacted

FA: S. Labelle & R. Massiah

Trad 12m
Halton Region Buffalo Crag
5.4 Boa Constrictor

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

Trad
5.4 Durley's Return

Start at 142m.

Trad
5.4 Apple Crumble
Trad
5.4 Trillium

Start at 178m.

Trad
5.4 Tree Jam

Start at 182m.

Trad
5.4 Calhoun

Start at 200m.

Trad
5.4 Yoyo
Trad
5.4 Ramble
Trad
5.4 Brown Pop

Start at 277m.

Trad
Beaver Valley Old Baldy The Black Forest
5.4 Larry
Trad
5.4 The Good

FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell

Trad
Beaver Valley Metcalfe Rock South Wall
5.4 Jam

The obvious chimney just left of Delicious Demon

Top rope 12m
5.4 Crack of Dawn

First route on the far right of the South Wall. Follows a crack. Two bolts on top for top roping. Heavily used school route; polished.

Top rope 6m
Beaver Valley Metcalfe Rock Big Gully
5.4 HOOC (Horrendous Overhanging Offwidth Chimney)

A large chimney in the middle of the wall. Route starts to the climbers right of the chockstones towards the top of the route, goes up the chimney and traverse to the climbers left to the chockstones.

FA: Helmut Microys & Eric Marshall, 1960

Trad 18m
Beaver Valley Metcalfe Rock Malen's Wall
5.4 Chimney

Located left of just a 5.6, hidden behind some cedar trees.

Trad 10m
Beaver Valley The Swamp The Dude
5.4 R Where's The Money Lebowski

Located on the backside of a small spire opposite of "Balls Deeper". Climb up the mossy knife edge, then head right up a nice ramp towards the far right side of the Dude Fin. plug some more gear then make a small traverse left about eight feet before pulling onto the ledge with the anchors. Simply rap off to the ground, landing on the ground a few feet right of Sunday Sausage.

FA: Gus Alexandropoulos

Trad
Beaver Valley Devil's Glen Old School Wall
5.4 That's My Blood

Look for a set of anchors above a broken crack about 35ft up the cliff.

Climb the crack to the anchors.

FA: Chrys Lovett-Doust

Trad

Showing all 44 routes.

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