Showing all 52 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante - with Merlin | 30m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5- | ★★ Alter Weg - with Merlin | 40m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The original line starts in the middle of the face in easy but grassy rock, then goes to the crack on the right. From the last ledge, it traverses left into the vague dihedral, then further diagonally up to the left. The dihedral is certainly the hardest part, but I don't think it's 6- as it's given in most guidebooks.
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6+ | ★★ Alpenvereinsquergang - with Merlin | 40m | |||||
I climbed the original line ("Alter Weg Variante in the old guide books") from right to left. The tension traverse into the alcove with the book was difficult to do without aid, I traversed a bit further and downclimbed the overhang. Book was soaked, unfortunately. Traverses further left into "Südwestkante".
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Christoph Rauch | 25m | |||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante - with Christoph Rauch | 30m, 3 | |||||
5- |
★★ Alter Weg
- with
Christoph Rauch
1
3+
2
5-
| 40m, 4 | |||||
Tue 15th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante | 30m, 3 | |||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante | 30m, 3 | |||||
4+ | ★★ Südostwand | 30m | |||||
Wed 3rd May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
4+ Hard | ★★ Südostwand | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3+ ~4- | ★★ Gerade Südostkante | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5 | ★★ Südwestkante Linksvariante | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
3+ Easy | ★★ Gerade Südostkante - with Player Two | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
4+ | ★★ Südostwand - with Player Two | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
4+ | ★★ Südostwand - with Player One | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★★ Alpenvereinsquergang - with Player One | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5- Hard | ★★ Südwestkante - with mit Nicole | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 21st Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
7- | Südwestkante Direktausstieg | 6m, 1 | |||||
7- | Südwestkante Direktausstieg | 6m, 1 | |||||
6- | Südwestkante, rechter Ausstieg | 6m, 1 | |||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4+ | ★★ Südostwand | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante - with Ellen | 30m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4+ | ★★ Südostwand - with Ellen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Schläferweg - with Ellen | ★ Good | |||||
Scarily brittle to the first bolt, then it's actually a nice, yet short traverse below the rooflet.
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5 | ★★ Südwestkante Linksvariante - with Ellen | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6- | Südwestkante, rechter Ausstieg - with Ellen | 6m, 1 | Average | ||||
Didn't enjoy this much. It's polished, the first bolt is awkwardly high, and it's just a couple of meters.
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6 | ★★ Rentnerauffahrt - with Ellen | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
6- | Südwestkante, rechter Ausstieg - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 6m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Bovist | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Christoph Rauch, monolith | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6- | Südwestkante, rechter Ausstieg - with Christoph Rauch, monolith | 6m, 1 | Average | ||||
5 6- | Südwestkante, rechter Ausstieg - with Bovist | 6m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
The easiest finish from the plateau. Actually quite nice. A bit bold, though, getting to the bolt might be super scary for small people.
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6+ | ★ Pfeilerweg - with monolith | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Great climbing, difficult around the bolts, but really spaced protection. I made the mistake of not taking long slings and clipped a bolt on the left (probably from the unknown new route). Turns out two draws were not enough, the rope drag was quite massive when I arrived at the plateau. Didn't want to bring up a second, so I just threw down the rope and deemed getting the draws back a problem of future me.
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Thu 27th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante | 25m | |||||
7- | Südwestkante Direktausstieg | 6m, 1 | |||||
hard
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6+ | ★ Pfeilerweg | 25m | |||||
Sun 3rd May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
5 | ★★ Südwestkante Linksvariante - with Dorit Heinrich | ||||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Dorit Heinrich | 25m | |||||
6+ | ★★★ Riss-Dachl-Weg, rechter Ausstieg - with Dorit Heinrich | 20m | |||||
3+ 5- | ★★ Alter Weg - with Dorit Heinrich | 40m, 4 | |||||
4+ | ★★ Südostwand - with Dorit Heinrich | 30m | |||||
Thu 14th Feb 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Christoph Rauch | 25m | |||||
7- | Südwestkante Direktausstieg - with Christoph Rauch | 6m, 1 | |||||
4+ | ★★ Südostwand - with Christoph Rauch | 30m | |||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Bovist | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Brilliant climbing in rough rock. People claim it to be chossy and vegetated; didn't seem chossy to me, but I can imagine the grass overgrowing some holds in spring.
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7- | Südwestkante Direktausstieg - with Bovist | 6m, 1 | Average | ||||
Short crack with a painful mono fingerlock. Careful above the bolt, the rock isn't solid in all places and you can fall onto the ledge. I put in a red cam after the bolt and a small wire before the exit.
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4+ | ★★ Südostwand - with Bovist | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Somewhat chossy, so take care, but nevertheless relaxed and interesting climbing. Joins the arête shortly before the end.
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Wed 27th Jun 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante | 30m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good soloing terrain. Massive jugs from bottom to top; not everything is perfectly solid, but if you check the holds before using them, three point climbing gets you to the top safely. Must be nice in the early morning.
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Tue 7th Jun 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante | 25m | |||||
Sun 12th Oct 2008 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | |||||||
5- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Torsten Schierz | 25m | |||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante - with Torsten Schierz | 30m, 3 |
Showing all 52 ascents.