Egloffsteiner Gemsenwand Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Christoph Rauch Campbell Gome Alma Kai Peter Betz Daniel Bovist Kurt Albert † Thomas Hocke

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Egloffsteiner Gemsenwand / Pfarrfels 25 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Egloffsteiner Gemsenwand 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.706014, 11.262454

summary

High south west face with an alpine touch.

description

Some worthwhile classics high above Egloffstein. The rock quality is mixed, wearing a helmet is highly recommended. Especially the highest portion of the wall is quite chossy.

access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

Zone 1: NO climbing
Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

approach

Either park at the big parking lot (49.699200, 11.264834) or at the open air swimming pool (49.7023296, 11.2620556) in Egloffstein. Then walk along Badstraße and follow the branch of it that leads uphill (north; marked hiking trail red bar on white base) and turns into a forest path after the last houses. Follow this path for around 500 meters. You can see the base of the crag on your right up the hill. There is a faint track leading up to a path with some wooden steps.

ethic

The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
Don't leave toilet paper.
Pick up rubbish.
No unnecessary noise.
No camp fire and bivvy.
Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
No publishing of boulder blocks.