Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mi 13. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Beautiful looking wall and a great corner crack. Quite sustained 18 moves with a couple of stemming rests.
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Mi 13. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great climbing all the way!
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16 15 | ★ Lady Dihedral | 78m | ★ Gut | |||
Transfer into the corner makes the heart pump a little... but without the traffic the lichen dominates making for a cautious ascent when wet
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Di 12. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Touch-Type | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Awesome pitch! So well worth it to get up there. Very much like a Bluey's face climb.
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14 | ★★ Touchstone | 60m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great climbing. Did first pitch to gain Touchtype.
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Di 12. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Gear in place from previous leaders in group.
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18 | ★★ Golden Echo | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fantastic climb with beautiful moves across wall and out right above the Kachoong roof. Well worth it if you're standing on photo ledge.
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Mo 11. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fantastic climbing. Always worth doing.
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14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice warm up for Mari.
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Mo 11. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ XI | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Love this climb. Lucky to enjoy the climb without leading it. Thanks Fabi!
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Mo 11. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Absolutely stunning position on the third pitch. Probably one of the best grade 17 pitches at Araps. Second pitch has instant exposure too.
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So 10. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Just awesome!! Surprised I had the endurance, having not climbed so much in the last year.
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So 10. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece | 33m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Extremely nice climb with a great "summit" belay. Best way to get up to Red Wall.
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So 10. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fun warm up for Dirge and Jen's Roof.
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18 | ★★ Jens roof | 30m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great climb, which doesn't really get the traffic it deserves.
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Sa 9. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantis | 33m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Looks nasty but it's super fun. Huge holds through mini roof.
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Sa 9. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
A climb I always make sure I do when visiting Araps. One of my faves of all time.
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16 13 | ★★ Hell For Leather | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Can't believe I hadn't done it yet. MUCH better than Muldoon and should get a heap more traffic than it does. Take slings for chicken heads.
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Sa 9. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon | 42m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Let Fabi take the first pitch, but really, the second pitch is nicer. I actually believe Hell For Leather to be a better climb than Muldoon.
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Fr 8. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Ivan | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Quite the contortionists climb. If you figure out what you need to do with your body the grade diminishes to its supposed grade 13...hmm 15?
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Fr 8. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Blockbuster | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very very clean climbing. A long pitch too, for full value.
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Fr 8. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Awesome climbing in one of the most spectacular positions you'll find a climb of this grade. Start is quite hard (read: heady) for the grade
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Fr 8. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Fantastic climbing. I got the money 3rd pitch. Can't believe I haven't climbed this before.
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Do 7. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Golden Fleece | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Beautiful moves through the second crux.
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16 | ★ Jason | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Quite slick through the crack, which can make it feel harder than 16.
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15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great climb, which I always try and do when visiting Araps.
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Do 7. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
Climbed the second pitch after leading the first pitch of Liberetto. Nice combination.
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Do 7. Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
17 16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★ Gut | |||
Climbed the first pitch, to then connect to the second pitch of Crescendo. Best way to do them.
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Mi 12. Okt 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Arachnus | 110m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Awesome climb and great exposure at the grade.
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Di 11. Okt 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great climb with fiddly pro in places.
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Sa 1. Okt 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mythologica | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 1. Okt 2005 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak Nailbiter Spike | ||||||
16 | ★★ Nail Biter | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 1. Okt 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
So 21. Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Quite a technical crux section. 10-Oct-04 Hugh fell 5m on this middle part. Finally got on this climb to lead it and found it a relative breeze.
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Mo 1. Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Absolutely brilliant climbing, that never relents in both class or its grade. There are a few rests but it still tests your endurance. I thought I wasn't up for it, but figured what the hell.... ended up cruising it.... made me feel GOOD!!
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Incredible climb. I really need to lead this before the end of the year. It's all there and just classy climbing the whole way. I bit tricky turning the corner into the fist jams. You also have to just motor through the overhanging crack through the good holds. Great climb!! Seconded Jamie.
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So 17. Jul 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Satan's Smokestack | 40m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very thrutchy but it seems to grow on you the further you go. The move outside the wide crack down low is a bit hairy. Worth doing but I wouldn't rave about it.
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20 | ★★ Footloose and Falling Free | 11m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Brilliant pumpy climbing with decent pro. Aliens are useful in the thin parallel crack through the crux.
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Really very nice. Plenty of good gear and did the whole climb with only wires and one hex. Well worth the effort.
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So 26. Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ Warlock DS | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I reckon it's 20. Difficult, but not 21.
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17 16 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great climb, but not worth three stars. The start is a grovel and the great moves only last 10m. Worth doing though. Funny I haven't done it already.
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18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A great line and I reckon only worthy if it's done direct. Why would you climb a great line by using the start of another climb? Gotta be done direct and I reckon solid 20 start.
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So 26. Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Egotistical Pinapple | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Seconded Chris and enjoyed it quite a lot, except the difficult start. One day I'll give it a go on lead.
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15 | Pop-up Toaster | 6m | Vergiss es | |||
Only reason we did this was to fill in the remainder of the day after being on EP. Fairly crappy and a worthless top out. Rap off the big tree above to the right.
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Sa 18. Jun 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Send in the Clowns | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Big Top | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very nice, airy finish to SITC, although I climbed a new variant start on the far left arete to gain Big Top.
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Sa 4. Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great climb. It was my first for the day and so it pumped me big time. Great climbing and great gear.
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20 | ★★ Termination | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
What a great climb. A few wierd moves, but great climbing and ample gear. Definately deserves a star.
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20 | ★★★ Piranha | 45m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
An absolute stunning climb, with almost all the moves in the book. Long but has three good rests. Thinkabout it and you won't get pumped. Great gear all the way, except the bottom 7m is a bit fiddly.
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6 | ★ Saturday Afternoon Walk | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Bumbled up this climb to get to the ledges above. Quite nice for a beginner, I reckon. The short 5m corner above to the Termination ledge is a great continuation for beginners too.
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Mi 25. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Lead it with no difficulty. Had seconded it on the last outing.
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So 22. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★★ Wizards Back | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great Position, good for photos. Nice line. Deserves a star! Get gear in soon to prevent factor 2.
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Fr 20. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Love this climb! I think Phil climbed this one bare foot!
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So 15. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Dave Manks Electric Gorilla | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
So 15. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity | 40m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Fantastic. The best route I've done so far at Frog. It spooked me for months and now I've done it!
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So 15. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sacrilege Crack | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Seconded Phil. Better than what the guide makes out. Almost worth a star, I reckon.
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Sa 14. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 17 | ★ Fat Mattress | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Better than the description lets out. Direct start is more like 17 or 18.
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Sa 7. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fantastic Climb that deserves two stars. If you can get past the initial off-width. The face and crack work above is beyond comprehension. Awesome! Do it, do it!
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Sa 7. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
had to climb it after photographing Andy on it. next time I'll lead it for the redpoint. Awesome climb with a thought-provoking crux on gear that needs to be well placed. The top section is fantastic and well protected. Lead it on 22-05-05. Cruised it!
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11 | Condor | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Seconded Troy so that I could get up to the ledge and abseil off the side of The Stars Look Down and photograph Andy.
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Sa 7. Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
What can I say, but do it if you're climbing 20, because it's a very strenuous 19. It's well worth it though. Jamming and the occasional needed face hold.
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So 3. Apr 2005 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Upper Cliffs The Upper Main Cliff | ||||||
13 | ★ Deep Purple | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Steph's second ever trad route. Nice varied climbing.
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12 | ★ Sticky Fingers | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Climbed it with Steph. It was her first trad route ever.
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So 27. Mär 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
17 17 R | ★ Tiger's Eye (Tiger Eye) | 18m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
So 6. Mär 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Clemency Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Lead the first three pitches with Phil, so I could see for next time where it goes and where the remaining pitches go. The third pitch is fecking awesome! Not a climb for grade 16 climbers! Should be taken very serious.
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Sa 19. Feb 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Mr Plow | 18m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Not too bad. The first moves would be heady on lead.
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So 13. Feb 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Send in the Clowns | ||||||
18 | ★★ Elysium | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very nice climbing, with an interesting start. Would like to lead it next time.
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So 13. Feb 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
21 | ★★ Urban Legend VF | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Awesome climbing with plenty of varied moves and exposure. The rising traverse out to the arete was a little unnerving but great fun.
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Di 1. Feb 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mythologica | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So 10. Okt 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Felt comfortable. Little tough in places but plenty of good feet. Save some energy for the hand jam finish. Look for face holds to mix it up a bit. Awesome climb.
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So 10. Okt 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Borderline 29 | 15m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Absolute classic climb with exposure max! Thought provoking traverse gets you ento the enjoyable finger crack with plenty of pro. Set of wires and a couple of small cams is all you need.
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So 19. Sep 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★★ Electronic Flag | 40m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
fantastic line! Wish I now had the chance to have onsighted it! Ah well. We actually climbed the direct start (17). Update: Lead it finally with the direct start. Didn't remember it being so much fun!
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So 5. Sep 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Bad Company | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Very nice corner with plenty of good face holds to keep your feet out of the crack. Need no large gear.
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18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Excellent climbing with a couple of sustained 4 meter sections but good rests all the way. Has all the moves and deserves another star, and soft for the grade.
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Sa 4. Sep 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Smoked Banana | 40m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great climbing, with ample rests to negotiate the two major cruxes, one low and one through the bulge. Great gear all the way. The chockstones are bommer and the squirm chimney relents to easier squirming the higher you go.
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So 13. Jun 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Iron Butterfly | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Becoming very pumped down low unfortunately set me up for a long, endurious pumpfest on the enjoyable moves through the bulgey flake. Great pro, but I still sketched out!
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14 | ★ Electric Lead | 26m | ★ Gut | |||
Nice line. Comfortable.
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15 | ★ Mechanical Prune | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great climb which probably deserves a star.
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So 6. Jun 2004 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mythologica | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Absolutely awesome and finished off a great day
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So 6. Jun 2004 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Trad bumblies | ||||||
17 | Loaded Deck | 7m | Durchschnitt | |||
No pro.
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So 6. Jun 2004 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Send in the Clowns | ||||||
16 | ★ Kaleidoscope | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Nice climb. Worth doing the arete variant.
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17 | ★★ No Idea DF | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very nice moves through the finish. Not really run out at all.
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17 | ★ Kaleidoscope Arête | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Do 25. Mär 2004 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Send in the Clowns | ||||||
15 | ★★ Send In The Clowns | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great except for the wasp nest, humming away iniside the rock. Great gear all the way.
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Do 25. Mär 2004 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Sharks fin | ||||||
18 | ★ Nicarete | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great finish to a great day. Awesome exposure on great holds, once you cautiously gain height above the vertical beach. It's all good!
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So 29. Feb 2004 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Wounded Knee | 18m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
First time on it and I don't think it deserves an 18. It's very soft for 18!
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19 | ★★ Chubba Chips Mods | 20m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fist time on it and I fall, sliming off the first ledge twice. Starting again and continuously wipingg my hands I manage to pump up past the 1st 3 bolts to cruise the rest. Book say 18 and 20 in description and index. Hmm It's solid 19.
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So 8. Feb 2004 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Bridal Party | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
19 | ★ Bubonic Man | 18m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Mi 4. Feb 2004 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Anonymous | 20m | Durchschnitt | |||
in the dark!
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19 | ★ Anonymous Arete | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
in the dark!
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Fr 23. Jan 2004 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Mission Impossible | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Di 30. Dez 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Caves Route Sector | ||||||
4 | ★★★ Caves Route | 520m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great way to descend, rather than the trail. Downclimbed entire route.
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Di 30. Dez 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
11 | ★ The North-East Buttress | 300m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Quite difficult route finding, except for next time it helps. Very pleasant climbing, sometimes runout, but enjoyable exposure.
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Di 30. Dez 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Caves Route Sector | ||||||
13 | Prometheus III | 13m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Absolute awesome exposure! As the description says, hardly any PRO! Awesome! Next time I will like to traverse the whole way.
|
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Mo 29. Dez 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Desperation Wall | ||||||
10 | ★★ Black Orpheus | 140m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
nice intro to Tibro. The weather was good to us!
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Fr 26. Dez 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★★ Devil's Wart | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Absolutely fantastic for its grade! A great direct line with an interesting finish!
|
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14 | ★ Orchid Alley | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
really nice moves, varied with a tricky mantle thrown in on the left finish line.
|
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Fr 26. Dez 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
11 | ★ Parson's Pleasure | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
not too bad. Lead it 22-05-05
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So 21. Dez 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★ Theory | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Felt pretty good, especially after a mental battle between brain and body at the crux. The body won! 14?
|
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So 21. Dez 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 2 (Witches Cauldron) | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very first climb at Frog, and it felt a little harder than the grade. It seems thats normal!
|