Begehungen von Doctor Slaughter

Last time I (or possibly anyone) will do this route. After having a few goes on it, I pulled past the second bolt and took a regulation fall. The dogbone of my draw on that bolt had rubbed sufficiently on the rounded edge just below the bolt that when I fell it snapped. The bolt below that then pinged off the wall, and I fell nearly 10 metres. Fortunately I bounced off my heroic belayer's shoulders and slammed into some rocks. This accident could very easily have been a lot worse.

The nature of the bolting on this route lends itself to either the rope or the quickdraws rubbing against the coarse rock. There is no way to protect this route without the potential for large swings that grind your life-saving equipment against jagged edges.

I would suggest taking extreme caution to protect your draws and rope before trying this route. Extending the draws mitigates the rope drag on the edge, but you should also consider a protective material between the dogbone and the rock.

You will also need to replace the first bolt, due to its rapid departure from the wall.

Left a draw on due to a rain storm that appeared mid-send burn. If anyone goes up there, please leave the draw. I'll be back.

This climb is great, it feels like Nowra. So close to the flash (not!).

it's very good

Too cold, saving some skin for tomorrow

3x shots. Very beta intensive climbing. There's a massive numbers of micro moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Going to be a fight to string it all together.

Good 25 and is accessible and close to town. a few sharp holds also some quality moves on smooth dyke granite