A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
ross taylor Brendan Goossens Adrian Yeet Chris Harper Steve Holloway Poppy Molly Tony Black
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. The Alcove Boulders 11 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Alcove Boulders 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern
Lat / Long: -37.312704, 143.710066
Zustieg
As for Cosy Corner. From car park head up hill and towards L end of upper cliffs. Cosy corner is the obvious corner in an alcove, and the easiest of climbs to locate. The Alcove Boulders are the boulders that form the outside the alcove. The climbs are on the E faces.
Abstieg
There are Rap chains at the top of the lower boulder and above Simple Simon. For the last 3 climbs walk down off the left end of the wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Simple Simon
On uphill end of face outside and downhill of alcove entrance. Overhanging corner line, starting off block then finger traverse under roof. Originally 18 with some nuts for aid. Erstbegehung: Bruce Somerfield & Phil Robertson Erste freie Begeh.: Simon Parsons, 1991 | 25 | 10m | |||||
2 |
Out Of The Hat
L and lower down from SS. Up body width crack off detached face to gain face then continue. Erstbegehung: Phil Robertson & Bruce Somerfield, 1993 | 12 | 14m | |||||
3 |
Reborn
Unto detached block downhill from SS. Follow weakness to up and L. Great Pro. Finish either at blocks, or at rap chains. Erstbegehung: Phil Benson, Chris Watson & Steve Hains, 1998 | 12 | 14m | |||||
4 |
★ Bongo Bob and the Becky Beat
Starts up reborn, moves left to the arete then past 3 carrot bolts to the top. Erstbegehung: Chris Watson, Bob Bull & John Morris, 2010 | 16 | 22m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Tylden Slot
In Yosemite some fool would have crawled in and thrutched their way to glory before grading it 5.9. Much better sit or stand start on great edges on the nose up left of Blackwood arete. Traverse up left to the gaping maw… look in, tremble then do the only sensible thing and undercling out to the lip/arete on the left side of the chimney. Power up via some slopey burley moves to gain jugs at the top, traverse left and simply step off into the boulder. Quite cool. | V5 | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Blackwood Arete
Climbs the left arete of the face down right from Reborn. Stand start just left of the shoulder-high boulder and climb featured arete. Scramble off right. Erstbegehung: ross taylor, Aug 2020 | V1 | ||||||
7 |
★★ Lockdown Blues
Nice problem with a great slopey finish. From a sit start off two opposing side-pulls in the middle of the face right of Blackwood Arete, climb the face finishing through the slopey bowl. Scramble off right. Erstbegehung: ross taylor, Aug 2020 | V5 | ||||||
8 |
★ Trenam Arete
Right arete - sit start, techy moves up arete to right of Lockdown Blues Erstbegehung: Steve Holloway | V2 | ||||||
9 |
Reaming Me Sleazy
On extreme uphill end of wall uphill from Alcove and around L of Sophie. Climb corner and crack. Erstbegehung: Tony Wilson, 1989 | 3 | 12m | |||||
10 |
★ Bribing Miss Beazly
Dogleg crack R of RMS. Erstbegehung: Mark Sullivan & Scott Schrieke, 1990 | 10 | 14m | |||||
11 |
Seamingly Easy
2m L of alcove entrance, up bulging seam. Erstbegehung: Simon Fenton & Ray Fenton, 1988 | 16 | 16m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 | Reaming Me Sleazy | 12m | |||
10 | ★ | Bribing Miss Beazly | 14m | ||
12 | Out Of The Hat | 14m | |||
Reborn | 14m | ||||
16 | ★ | Bongo Bob and the Becky Beat | 22m, 3 | ||
Seamingly Easy | 16m | ||||
V1 | ★ | Blackwood Arete | |||
V2 | ★ | Trenam Arete | |||
25 | ★★ | Simple Simon | 10m | ||
V5 | ★★ | Lockdown Blues | |||
★★ | Tylden Slot |