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The Alcove Boulders Guide

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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

ross taylor Brendan Goossens Adrian Yeet Chris Harper Steve Holloway Poppy Molly Tony Black

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. The Alcove Boulders 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.312704, 143.710066

Zustieg

As for Cosy Corner. From car park head up hill and towards L end of upper cliffs. Cosy corner is the obvious corner in an alcove, and the easiest of climbs to locate. The Alcove Boulders are the boulders that form the outside the alcove. The climbs are on the E faces.

Abstieg

There are Rap chains at the top of the lower boulder and above Simple Simon. For the last 3 climbs walk down off the left end of the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Simple Simon

On uphill end of face outside and downhill of alcove entrance. Overhanging corner line, starting off block then finger traverse under roof. Originally 18 with some nuts for aid.

Erstbegehung: Bruce Somerfield & Phil Robertson

Erste freie Begeh.: Simon Parsons, 1991

25 Traditionell 10m
2 Out Of The Hat

L and lower down from SS. Up body width crack off detached face to gain face then continue.

Erstbegehung: Phil Robertson & Bruce Somerfield, 1993

12 Traditionell 14m
3 Reborn

Unto detached block downhill from SS. Follow weakness to up and L. Great Pro. Finish either at blocks, or at rap chains.

Erstbegehung: Phil Benson, Chris Watson & Steve Hains, 1998

12 Traditionell 14m
4 Bongo Bob and the Becky Beat

Starts up reborn, moves left to the arete then past 3 carrot bolts to the top.

Erstbegehung: Chris Watson, Bob Bull & John Morris, 2010

16 Gemischt trad 22m, 3
5 Tylden Slot

In Yosemite some fool would have crawled in and thrutched their way to glory before grading it 5.9. Much better sit or stand start on great edges on the nose up left of Blackwood arete. Traverse up left to the gaping maw… look in, tremble then do the only sensible thing and undercling out to the lip/arete on the left side of the chimney. Power up via some slopey burley moves to gain jugs at the top, traverse left and simply step off into the boulder. Quite cool.

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Blackwood Arete

Climbs the left arete of the face down right from Reborn. Stand start just left of the shoulder-high boulder and climb featured arete. Scramble off right.

Erstbegehung: ross taylor, Aug 2020

V1 Boulder
7 Lockdown Blues

Nice problem with a great slopey finish. From a sit start off two opposing side-pulls in the middle of the face right of Blackwood Arete, climb the face finishing through the slopey bowl. Scramble off right.

Erstbegehung: ross taylor, Aug 2020

V5 Boulder
8 Trenam Arete

Right arete - sit start, techy moves up arete to right of Lockdown Blues

Erstbegehung: Steve Holloway

V2 Boulder
9 Reaming Me Sleazy

On extreme uphill end of wall uphill from Alcove and around L of Sophie. Climb corner and crack.

Erstbegehung: Tony Wilson, 1989

3 Traditionell 12m
10 Bribing Miss Beazly

Dogleg crack R of RMS.

Erstbegehung: Mark Sullivan & Scott Schrieke, 1990

10 Traditionell 14m
11 Seamingly Easy

2m L of alcove entrance, up bulging seam.

Erstbegehung: Simon Fenton & Ray Fenton, 1988

16 Traditionell 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
3 Reaming Me Sleazy Traditionell 12m
10 Bribing Miss Beazly Traditionell 14m
12 Out Of The Hat Traditionell 14m
Reborn Traditionell 14m
16 Bongo Bob and the Becky Beat Gemischt trad 22m, 3
Seamingly Easy Traditionell 16m
V1 Blackwood Arete Boulder
V2 Trenam Arete Boulder
25 Simple Simon Traditionell 10m
V5 Lockdown Blues Boulder
Tylden Slot Boulder
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