Begehungen in Graue Wand

Überklassiker 🥶

Wanted to try Number One Direkt again, but it was too wet. The right variation looked climbable but I was too pumped - it was the last route of the day just before sunset. At least I got to the bolt after the two routes separate. The last meters were a bit wet, and the jug before the chain contained a pool of water.

Perfect rock, good holds which are sometimes a bit further apart & slightly overhanging. Did not have enough time at the end of the day for a second try.

#2ndgo

If you happen to be here when this route is dry (which is almost never the case), you must try it. It is amazing! Did it with kneepad and nohand kneebar in the middle. Nevertheless, I got sooooo pumped in the easy top out on the best jugs you could think of.

Pumpy business. I challenge everyone to show me more beautiful climbs. Not because I doubt they exist but because I want to climb them too. Took longer than expected, but never invested more than a warm-up/cool-down go. Today with an awesome crew and high (35°C+) temperatures the time was ripe and the enducance here.

Right Exit. Finally, first 8a!!! Amazing route with super cool funky moves. ~5 sessions, ~ 10-15 goes. Spent 2 or 3 sessions finding the right beta for the bottom boulder. The crimp on the right is better than you think at first and takes time getting used to. I did not need to dyno anything, could use left heel hook. after opening the right toe hook. Top boulder with cross move to crimp with left and hooking left heel to right hand followed by a span to the 2 or 3 finger pocket.

What an amazing route! And what an amazing way to climb it.

I got to the crag knowing that it would be too hot to try Fugu again so the plan was to try Lichtjahre as my backup project. On the first try bouldering up trying to get the moves dialed I felt awful. My skin hurt already and I felt week. Nevertheless, I decided to give it a send go next try. Unfortunately, my foot slipped on one of the harder moves, but I started immediately again from a few moves lower and could top it from there. That really surprised me but also gave me a lot of confidence that I could actually send it. However I didnt know if it would make sense to give it another try today since my skin was absolutely on the limit and it was already getting dark soon. But the motivation was stronger and so I went for one more try in the darkness with just my headlamp on. I was worried I wouldnt have enough light to properly see all footholds but the little light made me focus much more on climbing perfectly and so I made my way through the route up until clipping the anchor.

Perfect execution, the perfect moment!! One of those moments I will never forget and that gives me a huge motivation boost! Simply amazing!

#2go Ultra nice & hard! Did the static version for the far crux move;) handling to not get wet hands at the start was the crux anyway;)

Walter says it all already;) actually onsighted the crux but missed a pocket afterwards, changed the beta which let me fall another time and battled through this beauty with the intuitive beta from my onsight go in the end!

#2go Awesome bouldery moves up this perfect arête! Since a half of the route was wet, it was quite a close fight;)

Stemming up this crack corner was so much fun even if it was a little bit wet:)

1st go after "Number One"; too good to be real! Perfectly shaped pockets in every size guiding you to the top with a spicy crimpy section:) more than 5 stars;)

The definition of a beautiful classic! Soo relieved and proud to have managed to onsight this one:))

#2go Another gem with perfect rock except the start where it's quite fragile and supposed to be harder after a breakout now! Tricky traverse afterwards which felt impossible at first sight;)

great route! actually wanted to do Buffalo Bill but I missed the left exit... didn`t regret it though!

After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route.

I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly.

It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy!

Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it

Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance.

One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say

Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more!

3rd try, maybe 8c+/9a

Such a special route. Slab climbing at Schleier, something else for a change... Amazing process from not doing most of the moves and feeling completely lost on my first go, to unlocking the boulders on my second go, and eventually doing it on my fourth go. Went from feeling it to be 9b at first to 8a when I eventually did it... Crazy these slabs

Tricky section down low with a long move...

Cool move! Almost fell at the top... So tired

'Retro Flash' which means I briefly tried it a few years ago and climbed it 1st go now (not remembering anything). Thanks for the beta Misha! Fun route!!

Kingline!! Such a great route from Geri!! On to the next

For sure a step up from Number "One direct". So either that one is easier or this one harder then 7b+... One of the best!

The first crux move after the brake is harder then the Beng move. Both are amazing though! What a fun route!

Great route! Burly intro Boulder into powerful resistance climbing. Fell so stupidly on one of the last harder moves on my second go. And when we got back three days after, the boulder was quite wet. But I somhow made it work