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Begehungen in Graue Wand als Flash

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Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Qualität Kletterer
Sa 3. Sep 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
7c Aqualung Sport 25m Klassiker
Andrea Ebner
Do 26. Nov 2020 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
7b Number One direkt Sport 28m Mega-Klassiker
Andrea Ebner
So 4. Okt 2020 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
8c+ Lichtjahre Sport 25m Klassiker
Jakob Schubert
After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route.

I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly.

It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy!

Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it

Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance.

One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say

Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more!

 
Mi 20. Mai 2020 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
7c Batman Sport 25m Sehr gut
Michael Piccolruaz
Tricky section down low with a long move...

 
Do 7. Nov 2019 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
8a B'eng Sport 22m Mega-Klassiker
Michael Piccolruaz
The first crux move after the brake is harder then the Beng move. Both are amazing though! What a fun route!

 
Sa 15. Aug 2015 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
7c 7c to 8a Nid hi gaggen (Nid hi gaggn) Sport 15m
alibabarog
So 31. Okt 2010 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
6c Piranha (Piranhia) Sport 10m Mega-Klassiker
Martin Busch
Top route!

 
7a As Stoamandl Sport 10m
Robert Busch
So 13. Jul 2008 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
8a B'eng Sport 22m
Adam Ondra
Mi 1. Jul 1992 - Wilder Kaiser
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand
7c Aqualung Sport 25m
Marietta Uhden †

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