Begehungen in Leinleitertal

Seems like this one's relatively neglected, even for Fürther Wand standards. Don't really know why, though. It's a bit shorter than the other routes and less homogeneous, but if you like bouldery routes, it's another quality offering. Crux is obviously at the bulge after the nice clipping jug, on slopers and shallow crimps. The upper part is airy, but easier (especially once you've brushed the lichen off the bowl-like holds). The first bolt is a bit awkward to clip, starting from the right is sensible. Also, a red or yellow cam might be sensible before the second bolt. #warmup

Hesitated in the crux up to the moment where I had to do something to not fall off. Strangely enough, it worked. ;-) The finish is really enjoyable, quite like the upper part in "Schildkröte".

Great slab line with a distinct crux at the third bolt. Otherwise quite homogeneous and a beautiful route.

Brilliant vertical bath tub bridging and stemming. Reachy move to a crimp from the faint crack (I jumped to it …), followed by said technique fest in the "dihedral", and an endurance finish on good, but hard to see holds.

Didn't get the crux 100% right, so I was too exhausted afterwards. Tried again and took the whipper from the clipping position, which is actually totally unproblematic and fun.

My new beta from a month ago made it seem so easy now. Not nearly as pumpy as I had imagined it. Feels absolutely great to climb this. I got a cramp in my left biceps around the second bolt, but fortunately could get rid of it before continuing with the route.

Now that I think about it, I could have tried a greenpoint. Well, nevermind, I'm certainly going to be back. #warmup

Actually more a boulder, but not a bad one. Easy start to a good ledge to clip the third bolt, then five-ish hard moves on small, sharp holds to gain the good layback for an easy finish.

Good moves, good rock, but soooo short.

Feels a bit longer than the left one, also good.

Marvellous rock structures. The bolts are almost a shame, put directly next to perfect stopper placements. Hard to clean if nobody seconds it.

New high point! Got from the ground through the crux up to the very last hard move, including unclipping the draws. Botched the final move into the jug, but turns out my beta wasn't good enough yet. Found a more stable way to do it, I hope my endurance is up to the task now. #trsolo

Climbs well despite all the moss. The crack is clean and the important footholds are free of vegetation. Astonishingly hard! Also has a quite more "classical" feel to it compared to the other crack dihedral. Hats off to the first ascensionists back in 1930 without sticky rubber.

Found another solution to the hardest move, with an undercling instead of the one/two-finger mini crimper. Feels so good! However, hard to do in TR solo, because the ascenders are getting in the way. #trsolo

Tried again from the bottom but slipped before the crux. Then forgot to unclip the bolt at the start of the crux. Bummer. Finished it to the top, though. #trsolo

Too exhausted, but nevertheless got through the whole crux section after a pause. Looks promising. #trsolo

Really good crack/dihedral with fun moves and perfect placements for additional protection. Slightly stiff in the grade, but that's to be expected here.

Funny chimney. Better back up the rusty ring with a sling around the chockstone. The old guidebooks describe the route as passing behind the chockstone, but it's really narrow, so I didn't manage and just went around on the front. Good rock quality, easily protectable also in the upper part. Belay tree at the top.

Fiddled around in the crux at the third bolt for an hour or so. Got through exactly once, just to realise that it's not over once you've reached the first pockets. Still a few moves and either a hard clip or a scary move to the jug. I guess I'll have to practice this one quite some more before going for a lead attempt. #trsolo

Avoids most of the ultra-slick slab that is the south face by going up left of the corner to the bolt used for a tension traverse in the "Alte Südwand" aid route, then moves into the fissured slab. One more bolt and then chossy runout to the summit. I guess the "Neue Südwand" is a lot better.

Chossy start, then actually a nice, long traverse, gradually getting steeper and harder. The crux is where the traverse ends and the rock gets worse again. Hard moves on questionable structures lead to a grassy ledge. The rock in the upper part is perfect, the protection is mediocre though. You shouldn't fall on the last meters. There's a relatively new rappel ring in addition to the old, rusty one that can be moved freely …