Schiefer Tod Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Christoph Rauch cooky Melwin Quacke Alma Campbell Gome Martina Demmel Thomas Hocke Martin Skalli Loic Zehani Ruben

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Schiefer Tod 17 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Schiefer Tod 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Saisonalität

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 49.802013, 11.299929

Übersicht

This north-east face has the most to offer for climbers looking for routes in the 9th grade UIAA and above. Don't miss the easier classic namesake traverse, though!

Beschreibung

The crag consists of two massive overhangs with high-end routes on the left ("Riders of Doom") and right ("I Bleed Black"), and a relatively vertical, sometimes even slabby part in the middle.

The old traverse goes up to the beginning of the right overhang and then pulls out diagonally left under the roof and on top of the left overhang to a belay, crossing the popular 9th grade routes like "Totenbrett" and "Gelber Blaser" in the process.

At the left end, just avoiding the roof, are the two easiest non-traverse lines, "Leichenschmaus" and "Abgesang"; the latter has to be protected with nuts and cams.

The far right route of the crag is, interestingly enough, another traverse ("Letzte Instanz"), going up around the right overhang and traversing to the left along its edge.

There is lots of loose rock in the lower part of most of the routes, but the rock quality gets better with the height.

Einschränkungen

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

Zone 1: NO climbing
Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

übernommen von Frankenjura Nord

Zustieg

Drive from Doos towards Behringersmühle. After 1.4 km, there is a small parking bay on your right, directly opposite a lonely house on the other side of the river. From the right end of the bay, a forest road leads uphill. Follow it for a few meters and then branch off right onto another forest road, which leads directly to the crag.

GPS: 11.29973, 49.80217

Ethik

The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
Don't leave toilet paper.
Pick up rubbish.
No unnecessary noise.
No camp fire and bivvy.
Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
No publishing of boulder blocks.