Routen in Oceania für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Climb the rainbow wall from a sit start, small edges and straight up.

Chris Beers Peter Jeavons Meedu Orlanda

Start matched on slopey flat edge. Move up the middle of the face using good side-pull crimps and sneaky heel/toe hooks. Top out

Emmanuel Madayag

Start on the prominent arete, a commiting final sequence.

Crouch start on obvious ledge, push your way into the undercling (some parts of this could be brittle) and make a long move out to the lip. Tech your way out of the cave and mantle to glory.

FA: Lachlan Turnbull

On a bloc about 20m right of Starblazing. Sit start with good holds, into the mono and up to the lip, then up and over.

Peter Jeavons

Grade is approximate pending a few repeats. Probably 5 or 6.

Dyno to mantle.

Sit start matched on the lower ledge and keep traversing left all the way to the jug around the corner. From there go directly up using some crimps and slopers before tackling the cruxy mantle.

Mauricio Chino

Sit start under the rooflet and follow the obvious rail to topout in the middle of the slab, staying right of the holds from Coffee and Contemplation.

Sit start under the jugs under roof and do a big move to join the stand start.

Probably one of the best looking rock in the entire area and a must do classic if you are into highballs.

Stand start in the break, tackle the small roof and follow the stunning looking arete with some perfect pinches to a scary topout above the void.

Pat Reynolds

A big contender for one of the best traverses in Sydney.

Sit start on the obvious flake and follow the perfect line of slopers at chest height until they disappear. From here, do a big move to the upper ledge and keep traversing right for a few more meters. Top out on the big scoop just before the massive tree.

Sit start on the 2 crimps and move out right. Do a few morpho moves on the scoop and finish with a big move to the top ledge to top out.

Mauricio Chino

Shared start with Booby Prize, but go straight out of the roof to a wild cut loose dyno at the end.

Starts right of Whipper's Hideout matched on the undercling. Do a big move to the crimpy edge and move left to join Whipper's Hideout top out.

Probably the best hard slab in Sydney.

Tricky start leads to a dynamic low percentage crux. Jug your way to glory.

A mega classic and another great addition to the amazing selection of V8s available in Sydney.

Sit start on top of the fallen boulder with RH on the jug and LH on the sloper edge and climb the prow.

Mauricio Chino

Leave your shirts on and be ready for a full body wrestle with the rock.

Sit start matched on the lower ledge and go straight out of the roof. Big move to the slot halfway up the wall leads to a tough mantle to stablish yourself on the slab followed by an easy finish.

Mauricio Chino

Desperate and technical slab/wall bouldering. Climb up through the window without using the big features on either side. Middle of the Eastern wall on the North Boulder

Stand start, up the arete.

Start left hand on door knob, right hand crimp next to it. Staying on the face all the way to the 'Everest'-like peak. No early exit or it's Base Camp (V6)

2m to the right of Bad Medicine. Rail start, dish, pinch, top. All holds follow a direct line up. Better holds on either side are off. Feet follow hands.

Same as for the fine line but use the mono instead of the pinch

Start as for "Apocalypse" with left hand on thr juggy undercling in the roof and right hand on a crimp at the lip. Head right to the start of "Jimmy's 5" & climb this. Ledge is in.

Start at "Jimmy's 5" in lie down position on right hand side of cave & head left to arete & up & keep going & mantle. Save something for the second crux & no traversing right into "Jimmy's 5".

Wide sit start (not on the jug), head up to the slopers and head left until you're stood on the ledge. Can be linked directly into Kyle's Rule for some extra value. Yan Z

Holds have been damaged.

A fun variant. Start matched on the same undercling rail as Fight Club but with feet toehooking the next jug.

Techy climbing from sit start on sidepulls up crimps and pinch to crux at lip on slopers. Absolute classic

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start on crimps. Using the left wall for feet, move through slopey crimp and big lock off to crimp to finish as for Ultra Light City

Emmanuel Madayag

Low start. Adds two hard bump moves with the left hand into "Ultralight Seam". Slightly contrived but very tensiony.

Stand start in the break under the roof. Head up via the slopey pockets to top out slightly high-ish.

Sit start with a right hand undercling and left hand sidepull. Climb the fridge to a tricky mantle straight up.

From the first hold make big moves out under the right arete and up on cool pinches avoids all the huge jugs of the left face.

Same start as for Lovers Tiff but from the big horn, continue straight out instead of right.

Phillip Booth | Peter Jeavons

Same as for "Lovers Tiff Left" but once you reach the lip traverse right to finish up "Lovers Tiff". A tad harder than "Lovers Tiff Left".

The RH arete of the gap between boulders. Don’t go deep, the crimps inside the gap are off! Slap up and finish on the jug for the V6, number 11

Low, hard rightwards traverse from the double-handed feature, underclinging over to the crack and up

Linkup 'Upper Pipe Dreams' into 'Pipe Dreams' to the double heel, then into 'Rubble'. Described in the Sydney Bouldering Guidebook as not yet sent

Starts right at the slot/jugs, head up and left (above Dragon's Den) to join the V3.

From the arete traverse right finishing up Bog On Up.

Start under roof on jugs and bust out via the underlcing to finish up and left on the face.

The best line on this boulder. A crimpy traverse leads to a big throw and tricky top out. Start at the obvious sit start on the left of the boulder and follow the obvious line right. Dyno to the top when you reach the flat edge and chickenhead.

Start on the big jug and make a big move left to a tiny edge.

Stand start and climb the faint arete using whatever holds you can find.

Cheeky Traverse with a top out of La Graviere

Crouch start on good crimps at base of arete and climb up through small crimps, sloper and sidepull pocket to small Gaston up high. Mantle up to the left.

Emmanuel Madayag

Start on the juggy hold at head height, make a big move up to some crimps then push up and right to finish standing on the slab or topping out

Start as for Nasty but continue up passed its finishing holds and traverse high and right to end up on the finish holds of genesis.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Link Tushi Strain into Sushi Train

Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key.

Stephen Rawls

Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.

Chris Beers

Liting Xu

Orlanda Peter

Link 'Black Magic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

Anorexic finishing on the start hold of Black Magic

Link 'Anorexic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

Damien Alexander

L1, R2, L3, R4, M4. A classic two move wonder. Knock off a grade or 2 for using your heel. Has been done going straight up and not using L3. Reportedly done static by Fred Nicole at V10'ish.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Start as for Penis Cling but continue from the jug and finish 4m up on the obvious ramp.

Start on the finish jug rail for Penis Cling. Traverse right until Break to Break. 1 move up to jug and jump right to span the huge bulge. Keep traversing right up high and drop down onto the finish jug of Silent Bob. Finish up For Sissies.

If done statically through the bulge, grade drops to V6.

Harley B

Probably impossible to repeat as LeBreton's exact and undoubtedly desperate sequence been lost into obscurity. It's known to be underclinged all the way to the top using the hardest method known to man and is said to be a Crag Classic.

After the finish of SNC, link into Zac's Highball.

M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5

'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended.

Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourself to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out.

Start on the pull-up jug and reverse The Problem of 1993. Once you reach the Dentalectomy holds, move up to the top of the seam (on the holds that are off for Dentalectomy) and traverse through the last 2 metres, finishing on the hold above the Dentalectomy slopers and start hold.

Start as for Dentalectomy and traverse left on pinches and slopers to finish on the chin up bar.

Travis B.

Dylan Soin

Start as for 'Bill Smith' but from the huge jug (7) Dyno rightwards to the hold left of Mr Smiley's finish (with the little fern poking out)

mattias braach-maksvytis

Start up Bill Smith, into Mr Smiley, into Foam and finish up Vitamin C or Vitamin X.

L6, R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5

Classic Sissy toughie. Wait for a cold day. Many ways of doing it.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

The same as 'Travis' except both slopey pinches must be held before gaining the edge. Contrived but good.

Phillip Booth

Climb the start of 'Re-Detonated' finishing up 'Foam'.

Phillip Booth

Link the start of Spooged Into Vitamin C

From the big flat hold just right of Travis Start move to the undercut just left of the Havana Pinch and pop to the sloper just right of the Detonator finish.

Start as for Spooged and finish up Our Man From Havana.

Start at the back of the little cave and follow the obvious line of edges to join and finish up 'Sista Soulja'. Heels are in.

Any version of Steve Austin that doesn’t involve left hand on the undercling as per FA sequence.

[Eliminate] How lowball can you get? Start on the edge right of Mike's Five and climb let using some holds in the roof to finish as for Depth Charge.

Link 'Mike's Five' into 'Burst'. Tough but good. Jug in the break is out.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

From the back of the cave, follow crappy holds and head out the roof to a big flake to finish on the jug over the lip.

Start with a left hand on the horn in the roof and a right hand pinching the lip above it. Keep going right.

This is crimpy, powerful, classic climbing and the best problem here. Start matched below the little rooflet, move left and follow the shitty little spaced holds to a surprisingly committing last move, ending on a jug high and left.

Orlanda

Low start to Nina. Start on incut underclings.

From the two perfect slots in the middle of the roof, move horizontally through the roof, then come out to the lip opposite the smiley face, finally finishing on a jug a couple of metres further up. Will Eyland and Ben Yee

Start matched in the thin flaky slot 1m back from the lip, head out and rightish to some desperate slopers and finally match in the break.

From the big hueco head left to the next big hueco, then straight out and up to finish over the lip. Crag classic.

1.5m left of the smiley face are 2 undercling pockets, grab these. Make a big move out to the cool fin, then another to the big hueco and straight out.

An excellent variation of Terranium. From the pockety start hold, head left on a series of edges and reach a slopey RH pinch which is in the gutter like feature. Keep going left with a big move to a sloper and link the finish of "4". It makes a good problem even better.

Start at the right hand end of this overhanging section of rock, on a large, worn, pockety jug. Traverse left on edges and pockets to a cruxy move going to a slopey pinch in the seam. Awkward mantle. A popular problem.

An impressive line, starting at the right hand end of this wall. Start on the big low ledge, go up to the side pull, thence the mono. The top is slopey and amazingly scary.

Steve Karma (FA)

High line in the centre of the wall.

Hard variant to DVP on small pockets. Traverse right from the arete keeping your hands below the level of the jug on DVP and above the initials.

Start on left undercling (a) and small right crimp (b). Up right to better crimp (c) to slope (d) with your left and top (e).

Start matched on triangular edge (a), up left to three finger slope (b) then grab the top (c). DON'T jump start!

Start as for deadringer, head left into the arete and straight up. No resting in the cave halfway up