Routen in Oceania für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

TWOAF into Bloodline

Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up.

Start up TCP then left at big jug shared by FF.

Boulder problem start into excellent resistance climbing above on RRG style incut edges.

Far right end of wall. Up short wall to break. Steep punch to inverted kneebar rest. Boulder out the crux traversing directly left through steep territory before latching the final drive-by and topping out on the arete.

One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's.

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

An easy start provides access to the magnificent top third. Extending a few bolts is prudent. Has also been done by starting up La Realite and moving left through the last rest of Reality Dysfunction to join this route at the bolt 9 pocket (Socks n Jocks 30, Tom O'Halloran, 7/9/14).

A popular and sustained climb. Low first crux and sustained top half, a little slice of Nowra.

Shared start. If you are cursed with damp and clammy skin, either use the secret German potion (Antihydral cream) or wait for a cold day to tackle a steep first half that leads to a thin crux on the headwall.

Starts down in the back of the cave, climbs all the way to the lip of the cave.

The direct start and finish to Shimmering, continuing straight up from the 2nd bolt of Aesthetic Images, and also going direct from the last bolt to the independent anchors (not sneaking back onto Aesthetic Images at its 2nd last bolt).

Bouldery start, no batman’n. Moderate climbing to the ledge. Punchy move over bulge to gain good edge. Thin moves lead to good jug/slot. Nice big sidepull move takes you up to the final crux and the single U bolt loweroff.

Pretty rad! Just to the left of Chasing Stars

The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof.

Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus?

Start with a right hand on the crimp just below the lip, and left hand on a side pull down low. Work your way up and mantle onto the slab

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cf_HCCUJqGD/?igshid=YzAyZWRlMzg=

1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of strangeness

1. 36m (21) Really good climbing and worth doing as a single pitch. Follow up the Fixe hangers to chains (some long slings are helpful). Lowering off using al 70m rope will JUST make it down to the ground.

2. 35 m (27) Solid climbing that would give an impressive on-sight. Follow the steel to finish at a semi-hanging belay. Originally done without the last bolt.

3. -m (30) Sail out into the slab with solid sustained climbing on a long pitch.

Between Teflon and Olympus mons. Finish at Teflon anchor.

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

Sit start and up left to finish as for 'Steak & Chips'.

Problem possibly now defunct, large flake came off.

Sit start and out the little roof to finish on jugs.

Sit start and up the hanging block.

Sit start and out the steep wall to top out.

Squat start just right of chock stone with right hand undercling, left hand sidepull. Up to sloper on lip and right to top out.

Sit start and head up left to top out.

Sit start and straight up to top out.

Sit start and up left to top out by stepping onto the boulder on the left when you get to the top of the face.

"Slabbing areteness."

"Classic low ball. At least its a stand start."

The mega classic. Sit start on the good jug low and right and make your way left and up through slopey pockets and crimps.

Start from break, up to slopers and mantle.

Start as for Castle Hill Dreaming (V10) but move left and up instead of direct.

Sit start then up right to top out through gap.

Sit start on good pinches. Move up via tufa-esque pinches to top out.

Sit start to the left of the boulder underneath Limpy using the lowest rails possible (see topo). Very contrived, but the hardest way to get up the boulder (so far); extremely hard moves to start using underclings. Can be finished up Limpy (harder) or Hasbeen Army (still bloody hard). Might be 10 either way? Topout if you wish, it's your funeral if you fall.

The sit start to 'Easy Way Out'. Unfortunately requires a few stacked mats to get going, so quite contrived. Very hard on the biceps - at virtually full reach, use the rail and poor underclings to get off the ground, then execute as per the harder variant of 'Lest We Forget'. Possibly one for the future generations...

Needs gardening (removal of a boulder at the sit - full excavation, please don't use explosives much as you may wish to) before this can be sent. A granite, sit-start, CAVE problem. Yes, you start fully horizontal. Will be a hard one if someone puts in the work to clean up the sit area. Otherwise it's a fairly poor problem.

Extremely bouldery with dynamic moves to tiny and slimpy holds. The first move is a deadpoint to a two-finger crimp, then up to a sloped pocket - crimp inside that and extend sideways until you can gain a good sidepull. From there it's only a few more boulder problems to the top! Can be top-roped with good opportunities for setting up anchors from the back.

Technically tough moves and very physical with a real head check topout.

Through a brutal tall person sit start into the crack, where it eases off to V6ish (v6 for the stand) to the top. Shorties probably won't be able to apply, unfortunately, though you could use the cheater block which makes it a number of grades easier.

After a few holds exploded what is left is a brutal crimp start to get onto a few poor side clings then somehow make your way up the face. There's not so much holds on this as there are vague tiny scoops and indents in the rock.

Sit start and traverse right along underclings then up via hard lock-off in pocket. Very bad feet. May be easier if you're short.

Sit start obvious jug and up through mini roof via small crimps and interesting moves to slopey top. Very good

Straight up the arete, topping out straight up through the seam. Hard!

One chipped hold, strenuous moves on tiny holds. Getting feet onto the rock is the crux - probably a 1-2 move problem, but hard ones nonetheless. Grade to be confirmed.

Traverse either way - crux is middle section.

Start as for Fairly Standard Lowball and after the crux moves of this climb traverse right as for Cassius. Consistently hard moves until you hit the glory jug.

Diesel Power without the chipped holds. Sit start using right hand gaston and left hand on vague arete. Climb bulge and top out. No stacking pads.

Sit start using left side pull and right chipped two finger pocket. Climb bulge and top out.

Sit start at Ares, traverse right and then finish up Hades.

Probably the best face climb on the Ridge. Powerful and delicate, requiring great body tension and with a demanding topout.

Sit start jug right hand arete, traverse leftwards into Ares finishing up the latter.

Big move or dyno.

Sit start from undercling/gaston then climb up using high right sloper and top out. No stacking pads for SS. Note: There was no footer left of the starting holds for the FA. A new footer was revealed after the block to the left became loose and was removed. Now easier/downgraded.

Bevan Ashby Alec Landstra

Sit start as for Factor B and then traverse right through some tough moves to hit the arete. finish as for Moonshine.

Sit start at Lax Ligaments, and traverse up and left to finish at the very end of the face/start of the arête.

on the outside of the gym on the wall facing the main school building there is the obvious climbable wall. on this wall there are 2 green pipes to the left of the right most pipe there is a crack start with your left hand in this crack and head straight up

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse right along the low line using slopers and underclings. Head up when you reach Power Up, to finish as for one of the Percival lines. [An earlier version of this problem was destroyed by some scum sucking bike riders with crowbars. !!&^&%^]

Start at the Power Up crimps, make a big move to the Bogan sloper and finish directly up.

CMCC

Sit start with crimps in the middle of the wall, then straight up via the slopey middle top out (the same top out as Percival the Feisty Mouse).

Start as for Muy Forte, then stay low to move straight left to the big jug and up to finish as for Percival The Feisty Mouse (eliminates the right hand slot on the standard Muy Forte).

Stand start from underclings, as for Muy Forte, then climb straight up using right hand gaston and top out (eliminating the right hand slot used on the standard Muy Forte problem).

Some of the most desperate slopers you will ever use. Sit start. Hardest part is getting your feet underneath you for the move onto the body of the boulder.

Very tough traverse on slopers. Sit start.

Sit start and fridge hug the body of the boulder.

Chris Beers

Also called 'the nothing'. V8 in the guide which depends on beta that goes out right before heading up the arete. If you stick purely to the arete you could probably add a grade.

Sit start.

CMCC

Stand start on the big sidepull jug and small crimp, then make hard moves left reversing 'The Mojo Connection' to the crimp rail before topping out as for 'Mr Mojo'.

CMCC

Sit start on edges left of jade and up the blunt prow. Vidya https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc8BgxuA6Rg

Sit start. Left side of the fixed descent rope.

Sit start with a punchy few moves. Joins the full traverse to top out.

Sit start with nice crimping and one big throw.

Sit start and top out the highball.

Sit start.

Sit start then traverse the boulder right to finish up where The Blue Nun finishes.

Sit start very low.

Friendly looking seam 5m left of the WW slab. Standing compression start between seam and crimpy side pull. Move up via some strong laybacking. Dynamic finish.

Sit start.

Start to the right of Slam Dunkin' on a blunt crimp and an obvious thick edge. High feet on the right. Move through sharp crimp in seam and blocky hold on the left to join SD at sharp crimp (the one you throw out right to) on SD. Finish as for SD.

On the low ridge roughly 200m past The Middles proper. Stand start with a hand on a flat rail and jump start to get established into the undercling (as per FA). Up side pull rails to scary slab top.

Likely unrepeated as of 2022, but looks worthy.

Sit start on obvious jug and up technical high arete.

Sit start at crack and move right via big moves, topping out via slopers left of the Lonesome (V11) top out. The block to the left of the Lonesome boulder is out.

Sit start and do the first move as for problem 11 (The Squeeze) then move right to the start of Single Female Lawyer and head to the top!

Sit start on the arete right of It Hurts, up the left face and arete.

Stand start on obvious block jug. Move left and up to top out ignoring the pedestal boulder for feet.

Up the arete.

Sloper traverse to the left and topout as for Me We

Sit start in hollowed out scoop and up crimps.

Sit start with nice edges left of the rock.

Evocative name, unknown location in Hinterland. Jump start and up technical slab. See 5:35: https://vimeo.com/137464150

Yet another V8 with a jump start to reach a higher hold. https://vimeo.com/107798715

Another jump start. Beautiful and technical face. 4:30: https://vimeo.com/107798715

Sit start.

Up slab to tricky roof then a pumpy headwall.

Sit Start right of Flaunt, on Left stoper and low right edge. Move to sidepull slot, and move to the top.

Stand start from face/arete right of corner. Done on face crimps. Or the Warner version of a classic arete dyno to flat jug.

Sit start as for Chalice, on the lowest holds, then top out to the left through a wafer-thin crimp. Matching on that (or using the other crimp for your left hand) and throwing to the rail is the crux. Possibly a minor variant of what was Pizza Knob (V4) which got damaged during the fires and is rated V8 in the new guide, but topping out on the same tiny holds.

Sit start and up with big moves on small crimps, with a tough topout.