Routen in Oceania für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice.

I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall.

5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left.

The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'.

The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'.

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner.

Start: Start as for LHV.

Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'.

Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a

shallow prow.

Start: Opposite VIMH.

If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself.

Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell.

Up following faint line to top.

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding.

Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch).

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required).

Line 1m R of Groucho.

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

2. (11) Up the crack

The slick chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the Clytemnaestra Buttress.

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.

1. 15m (11) Up the blocky corner to big boulder choke.

2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor (30m).

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut.

The arete. Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of Organ Pipes Gully.

Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress.

1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the pipe past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into Organ Pipes Gully to get off.

Another gully.

Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

A pointless variation on Bass Clef. Up Bass Clef to the chimney, step left and up the juggy arete just left of the chimney until able to bridge into the prominent line on the right wall of the chimney. Up this line then step right to the Tremulo bolts.

Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start at the short, easy corner.

1. 15m (-) Up the easy corner and follow the ramp to belay on ledge at top left, just right of Sonatine's belay. All very easy but a rope might be called for.

2. 35m (11) Step up and right onto wall and then take line going straight up.

Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks.

Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress.

There's probably a smutty double entendre here.

Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle.

The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab.

Start: The left most line.

Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky.

The arete left of Duck Off.

Up C for 5m then R into the clean corner, with a bulge and then nice laybacking.

Start: Start as for C.

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

The central crack.

Start: Start in the middle of Pritikin Wall.

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks.

Line up left end of wall.

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

This climb is on the north east face of the buttress. Climb the middle of the face.

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway.

Start: Start 6m R of Hope.

Up the L-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F.

The groove then directly over the bulge.

Start: Start at the next line R of P.

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge.

Supposed to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of Tres Hard.

Up short right-facing corner and deep line right of Greenfingers. Near the top, veer left across the wall to the rap station. Originally graded 10 by Noddy.

The monumental chimney on the R side of Reaper Buttress. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start at the top left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the Reaper Buttress page).

1. 30m 12. Up the wide crack then through sculpted territory, eventually stepping left to rap anchor on ledge.

2. 20m 11. Finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though.

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy. Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning against the cliff.

1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

This airy arête can be a second pitch to Native Companion, or an alternative finish to Transylvania. It’s the prominently visible arête directly above Subliminal Cut.

From the first belay of Transylvania, move left and climb arête all the way.

Good fun with fairly good protection. Start 12m R of Subliminal Cut, just right of the large block leaning against the cliff, or under the block itself. Up the wall past the right side of the block. Smooth slab, crux, from ledge on top of the block (there is a wire but short people will have to get up to it) then easier ground up line of least resistance to the headwall. Step left and climb diagonally left to the rap anchors.

Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

This is on the lower tier of the Minstrel Pinnacle. The obvious chimney.

This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.

1. 30m As for The Catacombs – finishing via the chains (?M1) if you don’t want to do the grade 14 roof.

2. 30m Up the steep juggy crack as for The Catacombs second pitch for about 12m, then trend right up the grey wall just left of the corner. Belay in the chasm behind the top of Dreadnought Butttress.

3. 15m Climb the upper side wall of the chasm, left of a gnarly chimney.

4. 40m Follow the prominent steep crackline up the headwall, left of the final pitch of The Catacombs.

This is the original version. Dunes Direct (described separately) is now the usual way to go.

Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right or scramble easily up from below).

1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

2. 6m (-) Up the chimney.

3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face.

This is just one of innumerable soil-to-summit enchainments of Arapiles which have been enjoyed by countless parties since time immemorial, and which are best left as a choose-your-own-adventure. See the FA notes if you really want to know how this one goes.

Start at Ali's.

1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on Orpheus (which is described in the Bard Buttress area).

2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of Orpheus then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up Orpheus).

3. 20m (9) Nasty wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

Follow Sisyphus for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass Orpheus and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

From Ali Baba's Cave, scramble up to a ledge between Bard Buttress and Bluff Minor. You ascend the southeast face of Bluff Minor, overlooking the Pines. Epic summit vibes.

1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

2. 35m (10) Steep to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

3. 10m (6) Up to the summit. Rap off a slung boulder on the summit into the gap between Bluff Minor and Bluff Major.

A pleasant link from Flinders Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, 3-4m right of the slimy access corner.

A pleasant ramble, although likely very close to or a repeat of the upper portion of Bong Tree (on Seneca Wall).

From the base of Missing Link, the first pitch starts approximately 20 metres down towards the top of Tiger Wall, not far R of DED. There is a small crack at ground level to protect the belayer from plummeting off Tiger Wall.

1. Ramble up the slab until it steepens. The line of most resistance is 14ish. Build an anchor up on top (30m, 12)

2. Continue rambling, doing a few climbing moves over the orangey lip bit. Place some gear if you desire. Build an anchor where it's no longer justifiable to call it rock climbing. (20m, 6)

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).

1. 46m (10) As for p1 of The Bard.

2. 25m (12) Step R from the belay across 'Eagle Cleft'. Above the big roofs on the bottom left side of 'Tiger Wall' there are two major diagonals going up the left side of the wall. You meet them here in 'Eagle Cleft', where they are about 4m apart. Take the lower diagonal to a belay ledge.

3. 30m (12) Continue up R along diagonal for 8m, then go L over a small nose. Go up the wall then R into the start of a chimney and climb it to a belay.

4. 25m (-) Chimney upwards to Flinders Lane.

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

1. 46m (11) Take the chimney-crack 6 metres right of 'The Eighth' which eventually leads into pitch 2 of 'The Eighth'. Belay on the ledge above the hole.

2. 30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.

3. 20m (8) Traverse as for P4 of The Eighth.

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

It's scary to think they called the route this way back then!

Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'.

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down. Easiest approach is behind the Death Row Pinnacle and walk left along a terrace to its left end.

Scramble up and slightly left and climb orange corner. Above the corner there's a little bulge with a stack of loose blocks offering a foothold. Instead move left onto the steep, juggy wall and up past the bulge then step back right into the obvious crack.

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above.

Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base.

After the left-leaning corner, continue over the bulge and straight up. Good rock, good gear. This route assumes the original veered left below the bulge as per the description.

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.

1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder

Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high.

Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves.