Routen in Oceania für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Best to avoid the dangerous and dirty second pitch and traverse off L to the abseil bolts.

Start: 'Diagonal' crack 40m L of 'Breeding Ground'

1. 25m (11) Climb the crack then up to ledge.

2. 50m (11) Traverse 5m R then up on dirty unprotected rock to large bushy ledge. Move L across slab to finish up broken buttress.

Looks awful

Start: Chimney just R of TD

1. 33m (11) Chimney to stance under roof on R.

2. 30m (11) Up chimney.

This route and the Scuppers are both around 50m, but the cliff here abouts is around 70m high. I assume that both routes reach the terrace at the top of the 'Three Sailors of the Armageddon' buttress which is about 50m high [TSotA abbs off a tree at 40m]. There is a steep narrow buttress behind this terrace taken by P3 of 'Barbertucky'. Either side of this buttress are steep gullies which can be reached by scrambling down the gap behind the terrace. Abseil trees are available in these gullies [50m x 2 ropes]. Or a roped pitch on the R would lead to the top pitch of Scurvy.

Start: Two bays [approx 60m] R of the MoW block is a buttress with a distinctive large block sitting in front of its R edge. About 6m L of this block. Initialled.

1. 17m (11) Up corner to overhang and up L to line. Up to corner.

2. 36m (11) Corner turning roof on R.

Not destined to be a classic.

Start: Scrubby L slanting crack just R of MA.

1. 25m (12) Up scrubby crack to tree.

2. 39m (12) Chimney then loose blocks to foot of corner.

3. 20m (10) Corner and crack

You'd need at least a bottle of rum in you to even imagine that this was worth climbing.

Start: 2m R of WYSIWYG big corner line. Marked with an X, possibly as some kind of warning.

1. 40m (12) Vegetated line.

2. 50m (12) More of the same only worse. Up the hideous cleft above.

Prominent initalled corner. 'Worthless' and very dangerous.

Start: 60m right of 'Salvation' is a prominent initalled corner.

1. 17m (11) the line.

2. 23m (11) the line. Take care with death blocks.

10 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.

Corner-crack 8 metres left of 'Blackfoot'

Crack 3 metres left of 'Hairy Canary'

Start 20 metres left of 'Fools Paradise' at a name-plaque!

Crack 15 metres left of 'Ten Years After', 25 metres right of 'The Lone Ranger'

Line 16m left of 'Sojourn'. Initialled.

Start 3m left of 'Little Black Cloud'. Initialled.

Start at scrubby corner-ramp 26m left of 'The Rose'. Initialled.

About 10m R of WW starting on top of the platform 8m higher. Take crack up R side of short pillar and continue up through bulge to foot of large chimney. Climb R arete of chimney.

40m R of HMSV [and clearly visible from the top of it] is a steep jamcrack up the R wall of a gully. About 6m L of 'Little Willy'.

Start: The original description said 'A track from the car park crosses the cutting near the N end and goes NE to the ridge. From the start of this track above the cutting go S to cliff above car park, L of 3rd gully'. So the climbs are somewhere on the cliffs visible from the car park? Who knows?

1. 12m (-) Climb corner 7m L of middle chimney [Dodo]

2. 13m (-) Corner to scrubby ledge.

3. 5m (12) L front of boulder

50m left of descent is a wall with two corners. Shallow corner in arête left of chimney and right of another corner.

Distinctive off-width mentioned in guidebook.

Up corner left of I Can Smell Something Burning, veering right.

Right of The Soul Cages is the descent gully. Predatory Pussy is 4m right of this, the left one of two cracks.

Climb crack just right of cave on first wall up from the Portiere. Left to line in main wall. Left and up corner.

Left-leaning line on next wall up left of the Portiere.

The tiered, orange corner up and left of the first outcrop reached. Step right on to arete below orange roof. Up corners and small wall.

Seam on front of next buttress above New Chum Hill. Finish up V-corner.

Corner at left end of gully.

Chimney in middle of next buttress up and left from 'Dreaming of Bulges'. Finish up left.

Up to sloping ledge on front of buttress. Up wall.

Corner on right side of prominent, grey buttress with dog-leg crack in its left.

Interesting all the way. Well protected. "it's not quite a muffin, it's not quite a cookie - it's a mookie" (Ambia Scott)

Start: About 100m left of the 'Death Threat' buttress is a nice grey buttress (lowest point of the cliff) which faces 'Red Chilli Nights'. 'Mookie' starts about 5-10m from the lowest left hand blunt arete and a nice corner. You should be able to see the chains at the end.

This is almost certainly an earlier version of 'Prince Albert'.

Start: Start on the back of Bomenya (?) on the southwest edge. Climb up over a couple of sloping ledges and then crossover to the southeast side and follow the crack to the summit.

The crack line on the left side of Tellumis Buttress (ca 40m back of Prince Albert). At a stance step right, then back left under the overhang. Rap Anchor at the top.

A fun trad corner of bridging and jamming with good gear. Starts off the belay of Namarron and heads up the obvious corner above. Take a reasonable rack (probably best to haul it up after leading Namarron).

The left facing corner. Follow the corner crack to the ledge. A harder finish (about grade 15) is to continue from the ledge through the crack in the large boulder on the ledge.

Left arete of the vertical wall just north of P.B and J

Can descend from 1st pitch by rope traversing 5 metres to DRB above RRCC.

The first ascent of this cliff, long and wandering climb. Starts 50m L of Vertical Groove in R of face, near a small (now dead) tree close to the cliff.

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m)

2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit.

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

Corner to the roof, go left for 3 metres then straight up the wall.

Start: Start at the corner-crack below the roof at the left end of the right buttress.

Up line to arete, follow the arete to the horizontal break, traverse left (continuing up arete from break is grade 14) then to top.

Start: Start at the diagonal 2 metres from the left arete of the little wall..

The chimney.

Start: The large right facing corner left of "Kava Boy"

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

Start 15 metres right of The Height of Darkness and follow grassy middle crackline left until it runs out. Finish up 1 metre right of The Height Of Darkness. Belay off chicken heads.

Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors.

The very L side of the wall has distinctly easier ground. This route takes the line of least resistance across L and above the void to a steep finish on good holds.

P1 (20m, 12) Chimney right of Oh, Hum. Up initial chimney, traverse left above overhang and into amazing cave P2 (20m, 12) Out on to nose and up crack and wall above.

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

Start just right of Acting The Goat From the right end of the cave, climb straight up to a vee-notch.

There is (or was?) a slender gum growing in front of the cliff. Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Very featured crack directly opposite "Skullcracker" with nice jugs to finish.

The Wall of large knobs has a smooth grey central section; star directly below this. Up to and tending left across the smooth section and then back right to pull through roof at 30m, then up.

20 metres right of Cailaf is a grey arete with dull orange streaks in upper wall. Start 2 metres left of arete and go up to rooflet at 30m. Swing right on excellent holds around the arete and up.

A pleasant first pitch.

Start: Start in the corner 10 metres right of 'Black Knight'.

1. 33m (12) Climb the corner for 20 metres and then traverse 2 metres right and up into the chimney line. Continue to a belay.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line for 20 metres and then step right into a broken chimney which is climbed to a steep, juggy wall. Belay with care.

3. 27m (12) Continue up the steep wall.

Black streak 3 metres right of "Reckless"

This huge diagonal line on the north face of the summit blcok can be seen from the highway when the light is right. It's not much good though.

Rock quality and protection are problematic at times.

1. 37m (12) Follow the diagonal line.

2. 20m (12) Move up to a steep, juggy wall and traverse left until the jugs become sound enough to allow a safe ascent. Continue up to the cave.

3. 20m (12) Move out of the cave and onto the right wall. Up the wall, tending right and belay on a narrow ledge. Rope drag and poor protection are issues.

4. 10m (-) Eaisly to the top.

This is just left of the Oasis camping cave on a squat, square-cut pillar of compact rock. This is as good a place as any to put it for now. Walk up below the right side of the pinnacle, through some chockstones to a corner on the arete. Corner, left around roof and crack to ledge. Left past dodgy thread runner to next crack. Up this, poor protection, to top.

Another fine route by this crack climbing team. The cliff splitting line up the left side of the Crimson Tower. At the top of the chimney (40m) belay on the ledge. Second pitch launches out right across mega exposure to reach summit.

Retrospective reference to a Grampians cliff much to the north. 10 metres left of southern boulder is a narrow slab with ferns either side. Up slab to ledge, diagonally left to ledge. Up wall with a step right below top.

Crack line at right end of ledge, in front of ‘nth’ boulder. Up crack and short left facing corner. Diagonally right up slabby steps. Headwall via left facing corner.

The large juggy wall between 'Spinal Column' and 'Bronchitis'. Follow your nose, keeping a bit right of centre. Walk off at half-way terrace.

Adds an obvious finish to any route on this lower wall. Climbs wall above the Operating Theatre. Starts 25m left of the finish of 'Spinal Column'. Very juggy corner leads to ledge and optional belay. Keep plodding upwards to finish up steep arête and summit glory. Walk off and descend tediously down western side.

May have been climbed by Glen Tempest and party but not recorded. Start 9m left of Angle Iron and 2 m right of Jaffle Iron. Up wide juggy crack with quite a hard start. Use rap anchors above Iron Lung.

Up wall, passing the left hand end of the orange overhang at half height.

Start: Start about 50m left and around the corner from 'Lost in Deep Space' halfway up the large sloping terrace.

Initial difficulties ease.

The thin crack splitting the outcrop

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.