Routen in Oceania für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

5. 30m (-) Easily up.

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

Easy climbing up a nice corner with lots of gear placements.

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

The arete

Start a few meters left of Fanstasm. Step off block and straight up face passing a heart shaped flake. Alan Hope, Bill Andrews Jan 1987

Starts a few meters right of Fantasm. Climb past twin orange ribs and up. FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews Jan 1985

Short crack then wall.

Start: Start 33m R of PoP, on R side of big slabby area, 3m L of the first chimney.

Another relatively neglected line which looks very worthwhile. A star has been added to entice the crowds over from 'Back Wall'.

Start: Start just L of 'Handles'.

Takes the prominent diagonal that runs up left into 'Mururoa'.

1. 41m (12) Climb the initial overhanging corner via the left arete. Grade 14 if started on the right. Follow the ramp into 'Mururoa' and up the corner to a big ledge.

2. 5m (-) The recessed corner above.

The line of choss L of RE.

Follow the vertical crack through 2 very slight bulges. Careful placement of wires in the crack can cause the seconder to hang around on their arms for ages complaining

2m L of The Mellow Fellow. Up the corner to a ledge then straight through bulge to top.

The corner 1m left of Heartbeat. Up the corner, over 2 bulges to finish up a short crack on the right.

Initialled with a fairly messy H. Up thin crack, veer right to slot, then up.

The flake 2m right of Heartbeat. Finish up that climb.

4m right of Changing Boots. Up over bulge, continue to top over slab.

1m right of Wish You Were Here. Up the crack, left to avoid the overhanging corner and up to a ledge.

3m right of Ronnie etc. Up with a poorly protected start.

Takes the obvious buttress left of Bastille. Start up the crack on the left hand side. Pull out right on the horizontal break to below the crack in the middle of the face. Up the crack then up and right on unexpected juggy pockets.

3m right of Bastille, marked with a small painted square. Up to and up the steep wide juggy crack.

Very faintly initialled thin crack. Climb about 3/4 of the way up then veer left to top. This face is steep, has suspect small holds and little obvious gear. It looks much harder than grade 11.

Up the face 3m left of Borderline.

At the right edge of the Flatulence face is a shallow left leaning crack/groove leading to jugs on the left.

Short and ordinary.

Start: Start about 8m around right of 'Airplay' and 4m left of a wide scrubby corner.

Delicate slabbing and one of the best long beginner routes in the area. A slight variant of this route was claimed as Swiss Cheese 47m 14 by Richard Morris in 1986.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Layback' And Think at left end of slabby wall.

1. 16m (13) Up the thin slab (crux with marginal gear) moving left towards the arete. Pass the left side of small tree via thin right leading crack to belay below a slight bulge. You can link this pitch with the 2nd pitch on a 60m rope for a good long adventure.

2. 40m (10) Follow the left leading juggy crack for 10m, up the wall above for another 10m passing a wide crack then straight through the small overhang to large belay ledge with bollards galore.

3. 30m (7) Follow your nose up easy jugs to the top. This pitch is pretty crappy. Best to just bail off left or find the rap slings and descend.

M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'.

Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'.

Steeper and meatier than appearances suggest. Start at the pine tree near the base of 'Attila'. Up onto boulder, step onto wall then diagonally right up ramp for 3-4m to prominent steep juggy wall. Straight up wall veering gradually right to finish centrally.

Really worthless. Short and loose.

Start: Climb the line through the bulges 4m right of 'Ignition', entered from the right. Dodgy block.

Not exactly 'Thunder Crack'.

Start: Starts as for 'Stiff Opposition'.

The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring a full rack.

Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top.

Start 3m right of the initials. Up the slab and over the overhang to the orange scoop. Walk left to finish up the regular route.

As for THIS IS NOT FUNNY VARIANT START. Go right up the jugs to a ledge. Move 2m R then straight up.

Up the corner / arete 3m L of Pigs in Space, to finish up wall just left of that climb.

Enjoyable airy climbing. Starts below a crack which runs up to a big roof. 1) 35m. Climb the first overhang directly to the crack and follow it to the overlap. Traverse up L under the overlap to a recessed corner. Up the arete and traverse L under the roof to a small ledge. 2) 10m. Move left and straight up.

Excellent value. Surprisingly easy for such steep rock. Starts as for BBBB. Climb the crack all the way to the big roof, step L and straight up.

Start at the edge of the rib at the foot of the main buttress. 1) 43m. Ascend the rib to a ledge at 4m, up overhanging chimney then follow the edge of the rib to the obvious overhang. 2) 15m. Climb through the slight break in the overhang (one of those height dependent gradings - you have been warned). Immediately above the lip traverse R for 3m to the rib then continue vertically to a large ledge. 3) 36m. Keeping as close to the edge of the rib as possible, but actually on the R wall, continue on to the summit and glory.

Distinctive crack aided through bulges.

Easy slab left of mossy corner (Kabana direct) then back into line.

Deep flaring crack 15m left of QB

Esay line 5 metres left of 1st pitch to base of shallow corner.

The filthy top pitch is best avoided by finishing up 'Brandywine'

Start: Around the rib, 4m R of 'Brandywine'.

1. 32m (12) Up corner crack with some enjoyable jamming. Up chimney crack to ledge.

2. 30m (12) Up wide corner chimney, out and up through bushes and up final short corner chimney. Not pleasant.

Takes in some wonderful airy positions. The first pitch is excellent and the second and third pitches, though not in the same class, aren't bad.

Start: Starts in a little bay in the middle of the wall (initialled).

1. 40m (11) Climb straight up the buttress, the angle easing with height. Belay level with a rightward leading horizontal traverse.

2. 45m (10) Traverse 6m right to a delectable crack which leads up to the overhang. Continue up the line, into and up a small chimney.

3. 15m (-) The chimney to the top.

10m right of a large flake leaning against the slabby face.

1. 45m Climb up an easy slab until it’s possible to belay under the first overlap.

2. 20m Climb up the break above and then go left through the second overlap. Head left and up to below a small overhang for the belay.

3. 25m Go back down a little then left to the end of a long ledge to belay.

4. 30m Head leftward to reach the other end of the ledge.

5. 35m Go left to the bottom of a large chimney and climb it to finish below a very large chockstone.

Near the centre of the crag, at it’s highest point, is a small pale slab approximately 7m above the ground. Climb up to below the hanging corner/overlap. (Crux) Climb up to, and up, the corner and over the bulge at the top of the slab. Continue up, heading slightly right, then up the right-facing corner at the top of the wall until an overhang is reached. Move left and then climb the arete to the top.

Pleasant ramble.

1. 35m Climb the narrow, smooth rib left of the first cave left of the northern spur (right of Redfern Estate).

2. 25m Juggy buttress. Scramble to summit.

NRNR is possibly AA because it has the same length & grade and is listed after LL in the Chockstone guide.

Start 25m R of the LH end of the cliff just to the right of the first large orange overhang. Start at the LH end of the scoop. Up diagonally Right through the scoop and across black wall to RH prow. Up.

A Hyper-classic Choss Pile? Up black wall left of MM and then V groove above

1m R of RHTC. Up into R leading line, pleasant balancy climbing up this.

The short chimney towards the RH end of the face, just R of Whippet. Exit L towards top and pull up onto easier ground.

Uphill and behind the Suez Crisis block is a larger cliff, also facing south. At the L had end of this cliff are 2 right leaning crack lines. Up the RH line.