Routen in Südafrika für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Two pitches. The first is easy the second is very hard. Best to try the top pitch off a hanging belay (two bolts). Some outrageously thin and techy moves up the short vertical wall. Unrepeated ATOW.

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of 'The Butterfly P1', to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins 'The Butterfly P1' for the last 2-3 bolts. Opened at 35 downgraded to 32 and now maybe 33 as some footholds got smaller.

FA Video

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

📹 Video

Start 10m right of 'Monster'. Continue straight up above 'The Beast' man trap on a sea of crimps and dead points. Mountain Club of South Africa Bolts

Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. Needs grade confirmation.

The blankness just left of 'Snapdragon'. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?

Start up the choss pillar 10m right of 'Snapdragon'. Through the roof above.

Start on two good pockets, traverse under the boulder with powerful moves, then topping out tending rightwards on slopers.

Start as for shongolo then traverse left onto superfly topping out at the start of Living the Dream.

In this picture situated behind the boulder, sit starting on the striking overhanging arete feature. Hard at the grade.

Stand start on TOTF, and traverse rightwards on the slopers, delicate foot work required

Start around the side of the boulder on good jugs (as far as you can). The traverse left (pedestal is NOT in) around the boulder until you reach the obvious jugs and top out.

Start on jug sidepull and climb straight out.

Sit start right hand jug and left hand roof compression and climb into "komodo dragon"

Start on jug and bust out on dope compression. One of the best climbs in the area.

Amazing line! start on big jug and climb straight through overhang using comprerssion.

Start on "pelennor" but climb into "Minas Tirirth"

Sit start with left hand undercling and right hand low and right on cool hueco scope. Do a insane move to the crimp on the face.

Sit/crouch start on obvious curved hold I the lower centre of the face, climb up tending first left then right to top out through the groove in the centre.

Aja Project 8c/8c+

Start in the obvious seam, top out with a good spotter. A classic! A crimp at the start has broken but it seems the grade remains unchanged.

Up the middle of the face on small sidepull & crimps just right of Yellow Belly.

Low start on a sidepull for the right and shallow mono for the left up to heucos and crimps. Top out via some rather loose rock. Kilian repeated the problem thinking it was open (error in guide) and named it WEGNEEM, Damian had never given it a name.

Left-hand side line of bolt on the overhanging red wall slanting to the right, midway up the face. Stick clip recommended. Rebolted by Andrew Pedley in 2012.

Climbs up the very blank, very overhanging wall. Pack you best pair of fingers.

The only 6 star line in the Universe? The sixth star is not for the climbing, just the aesthetics, this line is flawless and makes all other rock types look ugly. Sustained pocket and edge pulling takes you to a shake then a boulder problem to a glorious cruise to the chains. If you do this climb you are amazing.

Start as for Herr Lipp, then move left to start of Papa Lazarou to TO.

Landry Lushima

Climb the thin crack

Sit-start to Aikona.

Awkward standing start LH on crimp and RH on scoop/jug and climb straight around the bulge and TO going straight up. A bum start still needs to be added.

Stand start below and left of the wide hold on 'Mercy Me', move up and then right to the wide hold and go on to a high topout.

Sit-start on the scoop / layaway and head up diagonally right on slopers towards a jug crack.

Start as for After School Adventure and traverse right into the top-out of U19 Girls Basketball.

using the pocket on the left will make it easier if you're tall enough - Marijus Šmigelskis

FA by Marijus Šmigelskis

Start as "Dig Down to Get Dirty", but finish straight up

Sit-start in the little rail / crack just right of Crashdown Cafe's crack, move up along the crack into a big undercling and continue up to a white diagonal edge just left of the lip, move diagonally left to finish as for Crashdown Cafe.

Sit-start as for Prowler and climb through the prow using the left arête and holds on the face for right hand.

Sit start with good pocket for right and strange side pull for left. Climb the compression slopers and top out

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Project. Starts I. Pocket climbs into the 7b

Start by A-Z and climb strait out the roof on edges and underclings and over the sketchy drop off.

SS on the jug and follow the rail through the roof diagonally R to TO.

Open

Standstart with RH on undercling crimp and LH on high crimp. Climb the vague prow to hard TO on slopers.

Video

SS on jugs on arête of boulder A1, reach across onto the top lip of boulder A, move across to the center of the boulder and climb upside down and through the roof to top out on the opposite side.

Start as for Four Singers, move R straight away to join Shark Lord Darron, finish via the dyno of Shark Lord Darron.

Climb Four Singer Extension to join the dyno of Shark Lord Darron

SS with RH on crimp and LH on pinch, climb the roof diagonally right to the big jug (lip off-route), then big move to crimp, climb small crimpy face to TO.

FA by Roi Eshed at 04:00

Stand start with RH on pinch, jump to crimp and climb straight up the wall to top out.

SS low on small crimps, RH up to crimp in seam, LH on small edge, big throw to the start of Flaming Pig, TO as for Flaming Pig.

Stand start on sharp crimps, big move with RH to crimp in seam, LH to gaston direct above, TO straight high face

Video

Local legend Ningo opened this in 2007, the route only seeing its second ascent in 2022. A bullet hard line pulling through on pockets in the roof.

The sit to Doubt and Expectation

Sit start just left of a groove, traverse right to gain the starting holds for The Full Beast, then do that problem.

Start as for the Fullest Beast, climb out, do the Wasp, and TO as for the Bee's Niques.

Start same as Pudgy Bitch, but from the gaston, do the same jump move as for Jasmine's Jump and top out

Reverse Through the Core and join The Beast

Is this the old project?

Starts as the stand start for Cthulhu and ends to the right of Mysterion Rising

FA by Nicholas Allan

Not many people seem to know it but it's a classic. climbs the low prow to the left of Misterion Rising (foot ramp to the right is off) and then straightens into a slopery topout - Steve Bradshaw

Ascent by Nicholas Allan

Start as powerlines but head straight out

Ascent by Jack Burningham

Right hand finish to Buoyancy of Citrus

After doing Niks is Nodig I linked from the start of Buoyancy into the topout of Niks to make Sitrus is Nodig 7C ... give it a go and let me know what you think. Should be at least 7C seeing as it is definitely harder than Enhanced Coziness. - Chev

Jarryd New

"Not sure if this is meant to be an eliminate but felt more like 7A or it’s just a reach thing." - Jarryd New

Ascent by Nicholas Allan

Cutloose Climbing

Start just before to jug in the tunnel the power through on crimps to a direct ending.

Video

Nick T

Campus problem on boulder J.

If you think you can climb slabs... Start about 2m from the right side and climb to top out (there is a good hidden edge below the top).

Start on the big jug at the back of the cave, climb diagonally left on crimps.

On block left of Tightest Kite String boulder

Sit start at the bottom L in the overhang and move in an S shape R and then L to exit.

Ascent by Nicholas Allan

bit harder than the OG straight up.

From the start of Old Greg all the way to the tip of the prow! A fresh 22 move endurance testpiece, psyched its done - Keenan Meyer