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Red Wall

  • Bewertungskontext: US
  • Begehungen: 138

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Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Original information was sent to smithrock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk: Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.

Link to the topo: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/109511595

1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.

2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.

3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.

4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.

Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by

The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.

Pro to 3".

Erstbegehung: Danny Gates, 1969

Erste freie Begeh.: Danny Gates & Neal Olsen, 1970

Climb through cool huecos and jugs to fun techny dihedral slab to anchor.

Erstbegehung: Jeff Frizzell & Jim Ablao, 2003

1st pitch crux comes low(11a). 2nd pitch (11c/d) enjoyable moves on nice rock stays with you to the ledge. 3rd pitch waterstreak has 10d move at bulge. The 4th(9) climbs big holds to the top. Scramble into left gully to rap from pitch 4 or descend misery Ridge.
Over-all a fun climb on good rock with great position.

Erste freie Begeh.: Jeff Frizzel & Jim Ablao

Short, near perfect hand crack.

Anywhere from 2 to 4 pitches. Lots of places to build an anchor.

Straightforward until you get to the cruc about 60 ft up. Trend right and up on vanishing holds. Well protected.

Hallo!

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): East Wind Design

Datum: 2021

ISBN: 9780999723357

Color 3rd Edition:
Providing an in-depth look at many premier rock climbing sites within a relatively convenient drive from Portland, the color 3rd edition of Northwest Oregon Rock helps you ascend to the next degree.
  • Informative beta details 800+ routes at over 75 different rock climbing sites across Northwest Oregon and Southwest Washington, including both sides of the Cascades
  • Climbing sites include Chimney Rocks, Horsethief Butte, Enola, Pete's Pile, Bulo Point, Area51 and the summit of Needle Rock, among other crags and alpine pinnacles
  • This definitive reference guidebook will help you focus on your next climbing goal with rich details, effective route beta, detailed ink topos and photographic maps

Autor(en): East Wind Design

Datum: 2019

ISBN: 9780999723326

Featuring the best bouldering sites in the Columbia River Gorge, Gorge Bouldering Select captures the essence of its core areas with valuable details and photographs as your guide to scale the rocks.

Bouldering sites featured include Larch Mountain Boulders, Alpenglow Boulders, Hamilton Boulders, Horsethief Butte and Empire Boulders

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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