Routen als technisch in World

Tercer largo

Gringos in the limelight was set up over a couple of weekends in Spring and first climbed on 18 March 2012, by Patrick Andrey, Travis Kale and David Ascott. The route is fully bolted and does not require additional gear (except maybe a sling at pitch 3 if you wish to shorten the run out). All hard moves can be avoided by pulling on gear, however, on pitch 2 you have to climb around 7b obligatoire to reach the next bolt (unless you have a veeeery long stick clip). This route starts with a steep 7c, combining the first three pitches of Exponential Starter to one epic 38m pitch. Another 7 pitches follow all the way to the true summit of Takun. Pitch 2 and Pitch 5 are the cruxes. Both pitches still await a redpoint ascent. Pitch 6 is one of the coolest 7ens in Malaysia: a stunning and super exposed dihedral 150m off the ground! Be aware of the last pitch (4a) having razor sharp flakes and above the last sling loose blocks. At the last sling traverse right, DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP! You can walk down or rappel. It is recommended not to rappel this route since it is continuously overhanging and needs back-clipping. Better head to the right for 30 m (towards campground) and look for rappel bolts. This rappel line follows David and Friend’s new route down to a large ledge from where you can rappel to the ground skipping the first 3 traversing pitches. You need two 60 meter ropes!

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

3º largo: Péndulo 2º largo -> 4º largo

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

A3 Small and medium Gear if you climb it free (5.13A)

To access rap down "Ticket Danger" and traverse to the last rappel of "Les Rideaux de Gwendal".

Similar to 'Gorgon' in grade and nature. Again most of the climbing is free.

Start: 'Trident' cracks on left wall of 'Leviathan' corner

This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.

Freedom or death Variation skips aid, 5.12a

Gear : 1 set of micronuts, 2 sets of nuts, 2 sets of Aliens/TCUs, 1 set of Cams, 3 Knifeblades, 2 Lost Arrows, 2 hooks, cheater stick, 60m ropes

4 tiri in artif max A4, primo tiro in comune con B.A.D.

Nécessite : coinceurs, anneaux et friends.

Start: Below the steep corner at top of cliff left of 'Echo Crack'.

1. 25m (27) Left facing corner to ledge, steep wall to scoop and ledge. can be aided (22M1).

2. 40m (19) Corner to block, left leading groove to shale band. Belay on left.

3. 15m (13) Shale band, right to ledge below the main corner.

4. 25m (20) Corner to ledge on right.

5. 21m (21) Corner to ledge on right.

6. 20m (18) Step left, corner to dirty groove, left and up to belay (hanging).

7. 15m (18) Up wall.

Limpia/Clean

Has this had a second ascent? Covers mind boggling terrain.

Takes all the orange overhanging corners at the downstream end of the north wall. All belays are on bolts.

1. 40m (26) Start at the overhanging crack/roof and cruise through to the wall and cave above. Out over the cave lip and trend diagonally right to a bolt belay.

2. 40m (21M1) Surmount overlap and traverse left. Aid up bolts over another overlap, ho-hum, to finish up a crack and the next niche belay.

3. 30m (22) Crack and slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay.

4. 40m (23) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay.

5. 30m (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt. Traverse left at the line to gain a steep groove and bulge which leads to a belay ledge.

6. 40m (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take a leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.

Steep and technical. Will go free at some point. Starts at the wall down and L of Smiler. Boulder the wall with no pro to a pea-pod and a fixed pin (about Gr 19). Hard moves up and onto the ramp and follow this to the black wall. One or two aids brings the diagonal to hand. Swing R and up this to the top.

A good line spoilt by a single aid move on the second pitch. The first pitch is a popular and well chalked line with a handy lower-off, but beware that falls before the 1st bolt have strained a few ankles on the swing into the slab below.

Start at the flake/seam 5m right of Tokyo Rose, on the elevated ledge.

1. 18m (25) Up the right-facing slabby flake, then burly moves to jug (RB). Crux crimps past 2nd RB to break, traverse R to guano ledge and DRB (18m). Wash your hands afterwards to safeguard against bird flu!

2. 20m (26 M1) Take bolt brackets. Climb the closed corner above the ledge past 1 or 2 old fixed wires (bring your own too) then traverse left to gain the overhung ramp. Follow the ramp past three bolts (2nd bolt for aid) then up the headwall past final bolt to top. The aid move (an awkward dyno to a tricky catch of a pocket) might go free at 30+ if the strong persist.

5.12c A0

The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.

The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.

The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.

Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.

1. 33m (26) Climb just left of the RURP-seam into the all-too-obvious line and follow it over a roof to ledge and bolt belay.

2. 24m (13 M2) Corner then four aids to pass roof. Up to conifer.

3. 33m (10) Go 3m right, up to ledge, corner, traverse left then back up right to tree.

4. 12m (-) Scrub

Easy start past sling. Up to bolt on the right, trend left then over the bulge to the anchor.