Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 23rd Apr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Came back for this one, felt significantly easier than last time! .5-6 cams used. Doubles of #4.
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Great little crack with almost every size cam. Had a little fall at the bulge.
Bring doubles of 4s and 5s for the top.
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Haily | 35m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
To finish went straight up the groove, placed two bits in the average crack and belayed off a small tree, poxy bush and average cam. Just didn't feel like following more bolts up the arete. Was this the original sortie naturelle?
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14 ~15 | ★ Sitting Pretty - with Haily | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Following Haily's able onsight
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17 ~16 | ★ Blue Train - with Haily | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Following Haily's able onsight
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | Average | ||||
Could not crack the start so came in from HdL and took a couple of rests at thr crux.
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23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | Average | ||||
Dunno how Andrew did it but dogged thru the crux in the manner Jeff indicated, which seemed quite unsatisfactory
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17 ~16 | ★ Blue Train | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
17 ~16 | ★ Blue Train | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Yes it is several grades easier than it's neighbour
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21 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
Just held a slipped foot and avoided hanging on the arete for a spicier finish, aided but not abetted by the thin red line.
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21 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
Expected to find repudiation in place of redemption but not.
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
A giant dog - what a bog!
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18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Jeff Boyton | 33m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Delicate start then super-highstep. Sport climbers will be stick-clipping in droves.
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16 | ★ Optem Bop - with Jeff Boyton | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
High step, grade not much different from neighbour
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18 | ★ Jika Jika - with Jeff Boyton | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A bit humid
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14 ~15 | ★ Sitting Pretty - with Jeff Boyton | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Smeary slabbiness on cooling rock
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses - with zachary vertrees, Nigel | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Maybe La Petite Course would be more appropriate… though it is grand with a little bit of almost every crack size in its short length… Stout start that quickly eases, good fun …
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block | 33m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice slabbing. Runouts are not that bad on this one. Definitely easier than Jika Jika
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18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
took a couple of falls at the first bolt looking for the non existent footholds. Very relieving jug just before the second bolt. Nice introduction to granite
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17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
lovely climbing. Cruxy moves coming over the bulge. Climbed this to access the top of the crag. Watched the sun set up there and was beautiful. This is a sport climb with some carrots and some fixed hangers. Dont know why its listed as trad
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with jonah ovadia | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
Definitely easier than Jagusch Putsch and a few too many bolts. Wrong shoes.
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23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Came looking for a hard slab project but shut down and had to aid thru perplexing definite non-slab crux. Several bomber small-med cams in lower crack, bolts at and beyond crux, then two 20ft leadouts up grade 10-12 lichen slab between rusty carrots. Definitely happy days.
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21 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Three grade 21 cruxes at each of 3 lower bolts, much harder than 'Bad to the Bone'. Upper low angle groove has places for probably offset RPs and one <10mm cam. Stick-clip lower FH at 5m or leave the whole thing to lichen. No wonder the punters are avoiding this in droves.
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16 | ★ SB#2 | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Finally something clean in the goofy shoes.
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21 | SB#3 | 5m, 2 | Average | ||||
Pulled thru first move, some kind of campus rockover. Rest much like the others.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session. I imagine this would be pretty gripping on lead.
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23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | Average | ||||
Failed to do the crux despite many attempts, lol. Slabs.
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ Tanner's Leap - with Keira McLoskey | 20m | |||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky highstep over bulge
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18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
14 ~15 | ★ Sitting Pretty | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Amanda Claxton | 35m, 7 | |||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Anthony Claxton | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Righty - with Amanda Claxton | 25m, 4 | |||||
Again slipped off the first move then from the ground. Really nice rock
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14 | ★ Sitting Pretty - with Amanda Claxton | 20m, 5 | |||||
17 | ★ Blue Train - with Amanda Claxton | 20m, 3 | |||||
20 | ★★ Righty - with Anthony Claxton | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
14 | ★ Sitting Pretty - with Anthony Claxton | 20m, 5 | |||||
17 | ★ Blue Train - with Anthony Claxton | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
- with
cedric
1
2
3
| 75m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Spent a while at the end of P1 before taking off my jacket and pulling out some sport climbing moves (but tree is in!) P2/3 we just followed a line of bolts straight up which didn’t really match the description and was a bit hardish for the grade; or maybe it was just the lichen. Last pitch is chill if you can offwidth and I wish I had led it.
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Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★ Barad Dur - with Jake Delaney | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
first pitch is an unusual crack/layback situation with a big hard move at the end. the TR in TRad stands for TRees are on right? then two well bolted slab options for pitch 2/3 (do as one pitch) we went left as it wasnt a 'lichen deathscape' as described by Cake Dalmeney. and then the triumphant final pitch of one of the most enjoyable offwidths ive ever done. its a bummer someone has bolted the easy looking headwall 1m right of the crack. dont be tempted, get wide!
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17 ~20 | ★ Your Neighbourhood Bolter - with Jake Delaney | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
noticeably harder than the 19 slabs we had done on this trip. a lot more frictiony. awesome moves though
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Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
- with
Tom Bes
3
lead by
Tom Bes
glorious offwidth to finish omg. very spoilt to top out with just a magnificent pitch | 75m | |||||
this is a 3 pitch route - i took P2, Bah took P1 and P3.
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17 | ★ Your Neighbourhood Bolter - with Tom Bes | 25m, 4 | |||||
wow, thought we were getting a walk in the park slab to finish - nope! some of the most tenuous climbing all weekend! grades on slabs seem somewhat irrelevant - 17-20 and i could not tell the difference
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Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Rafael Andreollo | 35m, 7 | |||||
NOT a trad route. Carrot bolts (I think around 6 or 7). Anchor is fixed hangers, so top out to finish.
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21 | ★ Bad to the Bone - with Rafael Andreollo | 20m, 6 | |||||
20 | ★★ Righty - with Rafael Andreollo | 25m, 4 | |||||
Bit less run out than the Lefty. Final move to go on top of boulder is fun.
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19 | ★★ Lefty - with Rafael Andreollo | 20m, 2 | |||||
Very runout. Bit scary to clip first bolt. Anchor is rusty.
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15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses - with Rafael Andreollo | 10m | |||||
16 | ★ Downright Left - with Rafael Andreollo | 15m | |||||
21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids - with Rafael Andreollo | 25m, 4 | |||||
Fri 6th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | Gear on ★★ Righty - with Guilherme Pizzi | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun crux. This route has carrots at the top and needs to be topped out.
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19 | Gear on ★★ Lefty - with Guilherme Pizzi | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Anchors are pretty rusty but seem to be holding pretty good.
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15 | Crack glove ★ Les Grandes Courses - with Guilherme Pizzi | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
What a delight to find another FA from Mike Law here. I think I put too much gear and couldn't really jam my feet on the crack. Harder that other 15's I've climbed.
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16 | ★ Downright Left - with Guilherme Pizzi | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
I didn't understand the top. Feels like some foothold broke off there. Had to pull on gear to make it through. Wasn't easy to build a trad anchor for the second as most of the ledge was soaking wet. Also struggled with the rope snagging somewhere in the crack. Hope these comments help the next desperate person looking for something dry on a rainy day there, which will prob be a few years from now. The rest of the route was actually fun.
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Thu 5th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Rafael Andreollo | 33m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop - with Rafael Andreollo | 30m, 5 | |||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Guilherme Pizzi | 33m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop - with Guilherme Pizzi | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
great warm up to get used to the wall there
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21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids — 2 attempts - with Guilherme Pizzi | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Messed up the sequence up high on the route. It was pretty fun though. Took me two tries to figure out the start crux
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17 | Gear on ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Guilherme Pizzi | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
21 | ★ Bad to the Bone - with Guilherme Pizzi | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice sequence
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Not a 21 slab - no harder than many on Deckout.
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19 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
15 ~16 | ★ Dyke | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
15 ~16 | ★ Dyke | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
16 ~15 | ★ Psyke | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
16 ~15 | ★ Psyke | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Amanda Claxton | 35m, 7 | |||||
16 14 | ★ Sitting Pretty (Psyke) - with Amanda Claxton | 20m, 5 | |||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - with Amanda Claxton | 20m, 3 | |||||
12 | ★ Nerves of Rubber - with Amanda Claxton | 30m, 2 | |||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Amanda Claxton | 33m, 3 | |||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Anthony Claxton | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 14 | ★ Sitting Pretty (Psyke) - with Anthony Claxton | 20m, 5 | |||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - with Anthony Claxton | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
12 | ★ Nerves of Rubber - with Anthony Claxton | 30m, 2 | |||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Anthony Claxton | 33m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses | 10m | Average | ||||
Awkward start then easy
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17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ SB#2 | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
More mega highstepping, nearly split my seams. There must be easier ways.
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19 |
SB#1
1
19
15m
2
15
6m
| 21m, 3 | Average | ||||
Desperate start on slick black granite clawing at sidepulls while executing an over-crutch highstep, then answering the question "can you climb pure lichen?" in the tentative affirmative. A bit of actual rock further up P1.
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Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really good, felt similar to fuzzy at times
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19 | ★ Barry Dur | 25m, 3 | |||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
1
18
75m
2
3
4
| 75m | |||||
Wed 27th Jul 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - with Juri, Katie, Keira McLoskey | 20m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Psyke - with Juri, Katie, Keira McLoskey | 20m, 5 | |||||
18 | ★ Jika Jika - with Juri, Katie, Keira McLoskey | 30m, 4 | |||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Juri, Katie, Keira McLoskey | 33m, 3 | |||||
12 | ★ Nerves of Rubber | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block | 33m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
16 14 | ★ Sitting Pretty (Psyke) | 20m, 5 | Average | ||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - with Bisho | 20m, 3 | |||||
Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - with Drew Henman, pete | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool climb. Tough for grade
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17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Drew Henman, pete | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ripper climb in a great position. Loved this. Top made more spicy by not having enough bolt plates hence a 10m runout.
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