Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
34 | |||||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
34 | Askleipos
Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge. FA: Alex Megos, 2015 | 25m | |||
33 | |||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
33 | ★★ Sparticus
Hardest route in the Grampians? Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 25m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
33 | ★★ The Great Affair
Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.
Set: Malcolm Matheson (and DS added by Nalle 2017), 1993 FFA: Dave Jones freed pitch 3 ~2000, Nalle Hukkatival p1 & p2 Oct 2017, Oct 2017 | 60m, 3, 8 | |||
31 | |||||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
31 | ★★ Gilgamesh
Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter! Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.
FA: David Mudie & Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974 FFA: Ben Cossey, 2008 | 67m, 2 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Wall | |||||
31 | ★★★ Bossanova
Some think it might be 30.. FA: Julian Saunders | ||||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
31 | Cardigan Street
HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Pitch 2: Stuart Wyithe (late) & Pitch 1: Garth Miller (2nd shot!), 1995 | 60m, 3, 11 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall | |||||
31 | Agent of Cool
A fantastic natural line that was one of the 'last great lines' in the Grampians until Lee Cossey put a few days work into it and freed it in November 2015. Start: On the right wall of the gully, about 15m L of 'Neptune' pitch 2, is this striking overhung curving corner/crack. Up tips finger crack to crux move from crimpy pinch to big huecos above the sickle, monkey right into the crack (drop the rope back to the belayer - or use double rope technique - to avoid heinous drag) and blast upwards to glory. First ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCljblIsMYk FFA: Lee Cossey, Nov 2015 | 25m | |||
30 | |||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
30 | ★★★ Contra Arms Pump
A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half. Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989 | 20m, 2 | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Tupameros Area | |||||
30 | Red October
Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard. Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990 | 15m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
30 | ★★ Tourniquet
FA: Dave Jones (p1p2 98), 1997 | 40m, 2, 8 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
30 | ★★★ Naja
After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.
FA: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990 | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
30 R | |||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
30 R | ★★★ Journey Through Nicaragua
One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles. Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1987 | 20m | |||
30 X | |||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs White Wall Area | |||||
30 X | Orca
Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c. Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'. FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002 | 8m | |||
29 | |||||
Eastern Mt Difficult Range Wildebeest The Tiers | |||||
29 | ★★★ Beasts of the Southern Wild
Grampians wall climbing at it's best with distinct sections of increasingly sustained and technical climbing. Start at the corner 3m L of Forty is the new 23. Small gear required for the initial corner, and beware the top FH is very difficult to clip, add a long draw. FA: Goshen Watts, 30 Jul 2021 | 27m, 6 | |||
Summerday Valley Wall of Fools | |||||
29 | ★★ Innocent Fool
A ridiculously thin looking black streak. Start: Start beneath the widest black streak on the wall, about 20m L of the arch, and a few metres R of where the raised ledge peters out. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 25m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988 FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1988 | 75m, 2, 11 | |||
29 | ★★★ Rage
A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 35m, 7 | |||
29 | ★★★ Angst
Makes Rage an independent line to the top, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan. Start as for Serpentine pitch 2. Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst. FFA: adam demmert, 2011 | 40m, 9 | |||
29 | ★★ Kundalini
Starts as for Feather Boa until a few metres below the main roof, then go right through the roof and up the headwall for a few more metres to an anchor in the middle of nowhere where the holds run out. FA: Jai Critchley, 2015 | 40m | |||
29 | ★★★ Feather Boa
The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than Serpentine, so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there! Start in Lawrence of Arabia, about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of Scud Buster. It's best to fix a rope 8m to the ground so you can belay from the ground and jug/batman to start.
FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 61m, 3 | |||
29 | Quetzalcoatl (project - open)
Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.
FA: Equipped Dave Jones, 2000 | 54m, 2 | |||
29 | ★ Black Adder
A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing. Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids, on the guano-stained ledge. Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts? FA: Pete Cresswell & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 40m | |||
28 | |||||
Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face | |||||
28 | ★★ Old Masters
This searing cracked arete is the best line at Asses Ear. Unfortunately hard trad routes are remarkably unfashionable and this has had minimal if any repeats. Start as for Triptych but instead of bailing off right at 15m keep climbing the crack direct. The crack fades and difficulty escalates at the top. FA: Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd, 1989 | 27m | |||
NE Mt Zero Range G-Land | |||||
28 | Here Comes the Hot Stepper
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28 | Mr Lifto
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Summerday Valley Wall of Fools | |||||
28 | ★★★ Milupa
The well publicised left side of the arch is probably the toughest route in Summerday. Start: Start beneath the L side of the arch. FA: Martin Scheel Feb/Mar, 1989 | 25m, 4 | |||
28 | ★★ Zero Blunder
A very tough face. Start: Start about 15m L of 'Milupa', 10m R of 'Innocent Fool'.` FA: Jared McCulloch, 1990 | 25m, 5 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
28 | ★★★ Venom
The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).
FA: Steve Monks early, 1995 | 60m, 2, 4 | |||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda
Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Simon Mentz, 1993 | 60m, 2, 8 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
28 | Seventh Pillar Direct Finish
A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018. FFA: Dave Jones (2000ish?) | 12m, 2 | |||
28 R | |||||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
28 R | ★★★ Daedelus
This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017. FA: Julian Saunders (26M1) & Dave Jones (28), 1997 | 28m | |||
27 | |||||
Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | |||||
27 | ★ Compressor Route
Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off. FA: Nick McKinnon, 2002 | 20m, 9 | |||
Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Upper Centurion Walls | |||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Crack
On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling. This now goes free at grade 27, will become super classic trad crack test price. Probably the best true finger crack in the grampians. Gear 0.1 to 0.5 bd x4 FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2000 FFA: mark & Glenn Tempest, 27 Nov 2018 | 14m | |||
NE Mt Zero Range G-Land | |||||
27 | The Righteous and the Wicked
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27 | The Convenience Store
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27 | Lyrical Gangster
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Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ One Bed to the Left
Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness). Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete. FA: Dave Jones. Bolted & attempted by Scott Camps., 1997 | 18m, 4 | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Closed Gun Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Crazy Da Must Sing
Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up! FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988 | 18m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Inkido Roof
This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1993 | 12m | |||
27 | ★★ Tyger, Tyger
Burning bright. Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off. FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
27 | ★★ Rattler
2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!! | ||||
27 | ★★★ Mr Que
This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete. | 45m, 10 | |||
27 | ★★★ World Party
1
21
20m
2
27
13m
3
24
20m
The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.
FA: Peter Cresswell (1), Andy Pollit (2 & 3), 1990 | 53m, 3, 9 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
27 | ★ Naja pitch 1
| 25m | |||
27 | ★★★ Mirage
Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1), 1990 FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | 35m, 2, 15 | |||
27 | ★★ Pythonesque
A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt. FA: Will Monks, 2013 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Seventh Banana
A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins. Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.
FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson FA: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie & Steve Due (alt), 1975 | 55m, 2, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ The Great Divide
Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws. Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Martin Scheel, 1984 | 50m, 2, 3 | |||
Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Olive Cave | |||||
27 | ★★★ Malice
The gobsmaking left leaning line in the centre of the cave finishing near the end of 'Tazer'. One FH at start and one right near the finish. The rest is old school trad! Malcolm flashed it for the second ascent. FFA: adam demmert, 2008 FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 | 35m, 2 | |||
26 | |||||
Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face | |||||
26 | ★ Nacho Man
Seam right of Mexican wave. FA: Graham Dick, 2014 | 20m, 2 | |||
Eastern Mt Difficult Range The Cinders | |||||
26 | ★ Molecular Debris
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Ashlee Hendy, 12 Mar | 10m | |||
Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | |||||
26 | ★★★ Psychotic Episode
Super classic overhung orange wall - mostly bolts but a couple of cams are needed in the middle. FA: Nick McKinnon, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Devilled Haircut
Left hand variant to the Compressor route. Absorbing and powerful sport climbing up nice orange rock. Climb Compressor Route to fifth RB. Step left under block (RB) and fire up excellent wall above (three RB’s) with some nice big pockets to DRB loweroff FA: Neil Monteith, 2003 | 25m, 9 | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Sandinista Direct
Steep crack climbing. It's the finger crack straight up the headwall, starting about 18m up Sandinista. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992 | 30m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Tupameros Area | |||||
26 | ★ Hamster Roof
Another trademark HB roof climb. Shitty looking rock but climbs well. Start: The flaky roof on the right side of the terrace immediately above Gunboat Diplomacy's first pitch. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990 | 27m, 2 | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Northern Caves | |||||
26 | ★ Our House, In The Middle Of The Street
Belay below the crack leading out right through the roof. When the crack gets really small go out to the jug to the left. Originally climbed as an M3 aid route. Who did the first free ascent remains a mystery. FA: Adam Darragh & Robbie Mackillop, 1989 | 10m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Order Through Chaos
Put up by Corrine Gwynther FA: Corrine Saunders (nee Gynther), 2000 | 25m, 5 | |||
26 | Slave Driver Saliva
A run-out excursion that will probably be more popular as a top-roping problem. Start: Start a couple of metres right of 'A Long Way From Verona'. FA: Gordon Poultney, Simon Mentz & Donna Bridge, 1996 | 25m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Crank Start Amphitheatre | |||||
26 | Blood Diamond
Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Sendero Luminoso' and a couple of metres left of the easy stuff. Up the wall past a fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Move a couple of metres left to a pocket and head up immediately right of this through the bulge past a second fixed hanger. Trend left to join 'Sendero Luminoso' at its fourth bolt and follow that route to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael O'Reilly, 2008 | 25m, 6 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Windjammer Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Abandon Ship
A direct route up the smooth orange wall. Several huge dynamic moves, and is very well protected despite appearances. Rebolted 2017. A hold may have come off this route making it harder FA: Steve Monks, 1995 | 25m, 4 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
26 | ★★★ Rattlesnake Shake
Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances. Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground. Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's Rattler), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 35m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★★ Mr V
The easiest way to do Venom p2. Climb Mr J until 5m above it's crux, then take the jug traverse R to join Venom p2 and follow this to the top in one mega pitch from the ground. | 50m, 11 | |||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua
The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.
FA: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon MentzPitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989, 1989 | 50m, 2, 12 | |||
26 | ★★ Forked Tongue
A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m). FFA: Toby Pola FA: Equipped & dogged by Neil Monteith, 2005 | 25m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★ Jumping Viper
Start on the elevated ledge, 4m R of the boulder and 2m L of a small tree. The wall between IF and WP, then finish up IF past it's last bolt. If you're not as long and strong as Rhys, its still a good 26M1 by pulling past the jump. The extension out the scoop/roof to the lip has 2 very old bolts in it and is an open project. FA: Will Monks (26M1 & pulled past the jump), 2000 FFA: Rhys van Gastel, 2013 | 28m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake
A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith on)., 2003 | 25m, 4 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
26 | Slytherin
Start from the ground as for The Great Affair. Trend diagonally L past 2 new bolts to ledge. Continue L and up 7th pillar LHV flake, then finish as for Snake in the Grass to Mirage ledge. 3 cruxes separated by rests. FA: Graeme Dick, 16 Jul 2016 | 30m, 3 | |||
26 | Snake in the Grass
Goes left from 7th Pillar LHV to finish at the top of Mirage P1. FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Father Oblivion
Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams. Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006. A great 25ish variant avoids the crux past the 2nd bolt by moving L below it, joining Sirocco for a few moves then rejoining Father O above the 2nd bolt. An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O. FA: Simon Mentz, 1991 | 52m, 7 | |||
26 | Father Sirocco (linkup)
Some consider this a route that isn't worth recording; others consider it to be better than either of the two original routes that it links! It is easier than either of the original (sandbagged) lines - maybe that accounts for its popularity. Start up Father O to its second bolt, then traverse delicately left to join Sirocco's second bolt. Finish up Sirocco. | 30m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sirocco
Another classic up this unlikely looking section of cliff. The crux at the start of the second pitch is ridiculously hard, and can be quite demoralising. Some prominent international climbers have suggested up to 8a for this move! It is also enjoyable, and far easier, to either (a) pull on that one bolt to reduce the grade to 25M1, or (b) freeclimb around to the R past the 1st bolt of Father O then back L into Sirocco before the 2nd bolt of Father O. Start about 20m R of The Seventh Banana, and 3m L of The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989 | 52m, 2, 5 | |||
26 | The Chick is Trouble
A nice mini-pitch, although the crux is several grades tougher than the rest. Start 15m R of Great Divide, below the flake which is a few metres L of Seventh Banana pitch 1. Easy grey rock leads to roof. Turn the lip with difficulty (FH), to gain the flake. Nice moves up flake and face, to the first belay of Seventh Banana. Rap off (20m). FA: Ross Taylor, 1999 | 15m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
The dyno identifies many dinosaurs. A superb climb up the intermittent flake system. Start 10m R of Sordid Orchids on the elevated ledge, which at this end is about 10m above ground level. Follow the thin flake past a sea of fixed rubbish to a pin. Hard moves lead straight through the dyno, then traverse R to the continuation of the flake. At the roof move R and up a shallow groove to the top. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 35m | |||
26 | ★★ Sordid Orchids Direct
Extends the first pitch of Sordid Orchids by 12m and adds three bolts. Sustained wall climbing with crimpers and reach moves. Climbs more like a Blue Mountains wall climb rather than a Taipan steep sloper fest. Start as for Sordid Orchids. Climb Sordid Orchids to horizontal break after last RB. Instead of traversing off right into the birdshit, head straight up wall above (FH), step left and then up again (2 FHs). After the last bolt, traverse right into Sordid Orchids pitch 2 and climb this for 2m to a loweroff. Above the anchor is the aid move on Sordid Orchids pitch 2. FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2005 | 28m, 5 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Central Buttress | |||||
26 | ★★ Present
Slabba-dabba-do! An absorbing, exacting and extremely long pitch. The lengthy co-crux slab sections are unique for the 'Grampians'. Take 6 brackets, cams from micro to #3, and a few wires. There's ledge-fall potential at the 2nd FH (oops). A retrobolt above the 1st bolt (and shifting the 1st bolt a bit lower) would be welcomed. Until then, a quick safer option is to scoot up the easy first 8m of 'Simpleton', walk R to Present's 3rd bolt, and lower off it to pre-clip/pre-extend the 2nd bolt. You could also climb this as a fantastic 24/5 by starting up 'Simpleton' and linking into this pitch at the 3rd bolt. Start: Scramble up to the ledge/terrace, 2-3m R of 'Simpleton', and 8m L of the start of 'Missing'. Straight up between Simpleton & Missing, past 2 FHs, 5 carrots (glue-in stainless) & Missing's crux bolt. Join Missing only for a bodylength, namely it's crux. Up high, stay 3-4m R of Simpleton until almost at the capping roof. If your rope is "only" 60m long, you may wish to belay here to avoid simul-climbing 5m. Finish out the roof of Technical Ecstasy. Set: Will Monks FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael O'Reilly & Steve Chapman | 65m, 8 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Land of Enchantment
Looks wonderful but rarely repeated...it has handed out some spankings so may be rather solid. The bolts are those funny hanging ring jobbies and are rather old, plus the abseil sling needs replacing with a decent anchor. Ascends the golden wall L of the descent gully, between the upper sections of 'Asterisk' and 'Germinal'. Start: Get to the start by soloing across a ledge from 10m up the descent gully. Alternatively, the initial cracks of 'Asterisk' are reputed to be a good warm-up approach. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 25m | |||
Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Olive Cave | |||||
26 | ★ Fist Fighting
aka The Infected Fist - Neil needed antibiotics after his jam scars become septic whilst working this! In the vein of The Ogive or Procal Harem. The second roof crack 1m right of Adams Crack with a few bolts. Tape gloves, knee pads and cloth to soak up blood required. At the end of the roof crack traverse right along horizontal break for 6m to anchor. 3 FHs and assorted cams to #5 size, multiples of thin hand size recommended. FA: Neil Monteith, 2008 | 15m, 3 | |||
25 | |||||
Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face | |||||
25 | ★★★ The Infinite Kindness
Excellent sustained climbing - a technical crux followed by slope after slope. Starts as for Infinite Sadness, moving left into left leaning seam. Follow seam to bulge, snatch what rest you can then up past 2 FHs until wall relents. Easily to rap chains below juggy overhang. FA: Chris Shepherd, Tim Marsh & Megan Osborne, 1999 | 26m, 2 | |||
Eastern Mt Difficult Range Cape Canaveral | |||||
25 | ★★ Alien Lovechild
Climb the left-hand crack then traverse right to a terrace underneath a horrible looking roof. FA: Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton & Alistair Mark, 1991 | 30m | |||
Eastern Mt Difficult Range Wildebeest The Tiers | |||||
25 | ★★★ Extinction
A link-up, but with fantastic and sustained climbing the whole way; taking in the best parts of both routes. Head up the project, then where the project goes L, bust R to Arete (good wires) to finish up 'Forty is the New 23'. Wires and small-med cams. FA: Goshen Watts, 2 Jun 2019 | 28m | |||
Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | |||||
25 | ★ Antichrist Superstar
Wandery climbing on great rock. As for 'Compressor Route' to sixth bolt, then shuffle right along horizontal for a few moves (2 rings) to no hands rest in slot. Straight up a few moves to twin pocket jugs then hard right (ignore high ring) to break and good cam slot. Up again on pockets to jugs and pumpy conclusion past last ring to double ring lower off. Extend runners to avoid rope drag. Should be rebolted and straightened out. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001 | 20m, 8 | |||
NE Mt Zero Range G-Land | |||||
25 | Tennessee Earth
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Iskra Crag Eastern Walls | |||||
25 | Beyond Dave's Black Stump
10m L of BTBB on the same wall. Desperate climbing with spaced pro. FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986 | 20m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Van Diemen's Land | |||||
25 | ★★ Life's Sad Parade
Outstanding trad line that thankfully (or unfortunately, depending on your point of view) didn't get grid-bolted by the young guns in the early 90's. Climbers with arm-spans under 1.8m need not apply as the crux move is incredibly reachy. Start: Takes the corner just left of 'De La Soul' and starts a few metres further left at left facing steep flake. FA: Goshen Watts & Daniel Reve, 1997 | 22m, 2 | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Koalasquatsy Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Candy Daze
Brilliant varied wall climbing with a thin crimpy finish. Up Koalasquatsy for 5m (wires). Lean right to clip u-bolt on rooflet. Out right then up pumpy flake, step left into heucos then over roof to final tricky headwall. 6 UBs and lower-off. FA: kp | 25m, 6 | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Kurosawa
Fine climbing on small holds. Deceptively steep. Start: Start as for RAN, it was going to have an independent start but a bit snapped off (hence the extraneous bolt). FA: Scott Camps, Simon Kemp & Alister Mark, 1988 | 18m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Crank Start Amphitheatre | |||||
25 | ★ Sendero Luminoso
Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Pass Laws'. It is easy to stick clip the first hanger if you so wish. Pull into the grey scoop and out right, then up to the big horizontal break (RB). Through the bulge, past a fixed hanger (crux) and up past four more. A few wires are handy to protect the top. FA: Steve Chapman, Kevin Lindorff & Michael O'Reilly, 2008 | 18m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Rock The Casbah
Excellent gymnastic climbing with crux sections at each of the three fixed hangers. Straightens out 'Pass Laws' and adds a direct finish. Take some trad gear to augment the fixed protection. Start as for the bouldery start of 'Pass Laws' then, instead of the little shimmy left, up and right, head straight up past the second hanger to the obvious traverse line. Continue up directly, past the third hanger.(Upgraded from 24 to 25) FA: Kevin Lindorff & Steve Chapman, 2008 | 27m, 3 | |||
25 | ★ Crimp Start
Start 3m right of 'Western Ayatollahs' at a short, shallow, left-facing corner. Take some medium cams and wires for placements between the bolts. Up the corner past a fixed hanger. Pull up right onto the shoulder and move up past the second fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Straight up the orange wall past three more fixed hangers. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Steve Chapman & Michael O'Reilly, 2008 | 27m, 5 | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Flying Blind Area | |||||
25 | Gunga Din DS
Hard pumpy direct start (BR) into Gunga Din. FA: Scott Camps, 1987 | 20m, 1 | |||
Summerday Valley Bowler Boulder | |||||
25 | Razor Gang Direct
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Summerday Valley Wall of Fools | |||||
25 | ★★ Diazepam
Classic technical thin wall climbing. Was once quite runout and dangerous - but this has been tamed (with permission from FA). Start at the left end of the raised ledge. Belaying from the ground might be an idea to reduce the fall factor. FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Shepherd, 1985 | 25m, 5 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Windjammer Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Mutiny On The Bounty (Variant Start)
Technical pocket pulling. Start down right and dog-leg past three RBs to join original at bolt below break. Rebolted 2017. FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1994 | 25m, 5 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
25 | Natural Wastage
Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall. Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'. FA: Steve Monks & Nick White, 1990 | 30m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
25 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua Pitch 1
| 28m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★★ Mr T (Mr Josh Left Variant)
Totally classic ... but it's hard to give the third star when it's only an 8m variant of the first pitch of Mr Joshua. Unfortunately the bolts are getting rather rusty after only 10 years. Start as for Mr Joshua. At the post-crux horizontal break of Mr Joshua's first pitch, (after the 6th bolt) step left and climb left side of scoop past two FHs to rejoin Mr J at it's last bolt. Lower off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground). FA: Garry & Jake FA: Garry Phillips, 2006 | 35m, 9 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
25 | ★★ Divided Years
Steep scoopy World Party start then thin technical finish. Well protected and convenient for climbers who end up on the ledge above the left end of Taipan. Start on top of Taipan Wall: this route is a rap in and climb out affair between The Great Divide and Daedalus. Locate double rap rings on ledge about 10m south of the Clean Sweep rap chains. Rap down wall aiming for double ring belay at right end of horizontal break. You will need to be pushing off and swinging in to reach this anchor - the wall is steep! Traverse left across horizontal (FH), then up into water funnel scoop (two FHs) to small cave. Out right side of this cave on crimpers past final FH to juggy gritty finish. #3 SLCD and a few medium wires are all that is required in the trad department. Its a 40m Rap to the ground from the Rap-Anchors on the Belay at the start of this route. FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005 | 16m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Sordid Orchids Pitch 1
| 20m, 2 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Under the Sun
As for Moon Dreams to juggy horizontal break; then R past flakes via a big move, then straight up amazing wall. Resist the urge to climb into diagonal crack - finish straight up. Takes lots of nuts, and a few small cams. Add a grade if climbed placing gear. FA: Goshen Watts, 1 Nov 2021 | 30m | |||
Mount Zero Pangaea Walls | |||||
25 | ★ Ephemeral Lakes
Good, strenuous route...unless it's an April Fool's joke. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1991 | 15m |