Routes in Grampians for selected grade

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort.

Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top.

Starts about 4m right of 'Fot as Huck'. Long reaches between good holds trending left to the same anchor as 'Fot as Huck'. Originally a trad route.

Located on a separate buttress 10m directly up above and behind Dagwood Dog. Access by scrambling up via a cairned slot at the left end of Bikram Bloc. Fun climbing with a great outlook through gentle bulges flirting with the arete. Should be a hoot (aka dyno) if you are short. It receives all day sun in winter and late arvo shade in the summer.

Face starting immediately L of TOC veering up and L to the 3rd RB then continuing straight up to the anchors. Rap rings at belay.

Steep fun just right of the corner, 8m right of DD. Double U anchor, best to rap to clean.

Around the corner from Forget Me Not. Short but good pumpy fun with all day shade.

Up clean orange face and up through the crux roof pull 3m R of GOTTV. Clip and lower anchor.

Leave the faff pack on the ground and enjoy this tasty clip up. Start up the right leaning crack, pull the lip trending left of the third bolt and gobble up the fantastic face above. Any bridging along the way will cost you a grade or three.

Over the chasm right of FP. Originally started off the block at around 18, now also has a direct start from the ground. Clip and lower anchors. One hope, one quest.

Short, steep line with tricky moves getting past that big tummy. Stays in the shade later than most routes in the vicinity.

Bolted slab & arete. Either start as ROC or bridging is permitted while getting yourself established.

Another hilarious novelty route. Stick clip the belay anchor on the podium and figure out how to get across safely... Awesome steep jugs. Take care when lowering as the rope will always end up settling into the funnel below the anchors. To prevent a jammed rope and getting stuck in space either rap off or if lowering ensure the climber's side of the rope is nestled into the groove first, belayers side on top.

The clean arete right of TFC. Trundle up the blocky start then step on and resist any urge to bridge. Like kabana by the campfire, the don is the goods!

In shade all day. The steep line at this wall is great fun despite the sandy start. The slightly ominous looking block at half height doesn't appear to be going anywhere anytime soon, but you know, be careful with it.

Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.

Sit Start on the jug almost in between the two boulders, climb to the top on good holds.

A good line done in cold, wet conditions. Find the major diagonal line in the gully on the north face of the outcrop. Traverse right across gentle slab to major corner. Up corner to top of block. Left below overhang then corner to next overhang. Go left to arete and up airily.

This atmospheric climb finishes up a landmark notch in the summit ceilings R of exit gully of The 'Sermon'. At the foot of the west face, right of The 'Sermon' is a long ceiling. The base of the cliff then drops down right to where there is another long ceiling. Between these two ceilings is a short, broken, L-facing corner. Start here (where are topos when you need them?) 1. 45m Up and right then straight up to grassy terrace. Up this (up a terrace?) to foot of wall above two blocks on grass. 2. 40m 'Small', right-facing corner crack. Step up left and climb up and left on mossy face, then straight up to ledge. Short walls lead to narrow ledge below huge overhanging wall. Move left on ledge to guano-stained corner. 3. 20m (crux) Take seam, moving right and up under ceilings to exposed stance in notch. 4. 30m The line above.

Brilliant 'Arete' that is all too short.

The line up the middle of the face L of Bridget that finishes through the steepest part of the wall. Start 1m L of Bridget, following intermittent corners and cracks to the steepening. Climb through overlap to cave, then up the corner to roof, great moves take you out L past the roof to the top. Good gear where you need it.

The best warm-up here. Well protected and interesting climbing throughout. Starts at ground level on the right side of cave. Up sandy slab to orange funnel. Up this and onto steep left arete, then mantle onto ledge. Swing right and then crimp up grey face above. 6 ringbolts and lower-off.

Start up Glue Mountains till you reach the major overlap, then follow bolts right trying to manage the pump, up to and over hanging prow, with a bit of a sting in the tail

The far left route on the grid bolted section of cliff, and just right of the roof section. Boulder up just right of short arete on pockets to horizontal. Head up and left onto brushed streak. Weave your way up this crimpy face to top past a few bulges. Finish is a tad runout. 6 FHs and clip-and-go lower-off.

2nd route from the left with FHs and about 3m left of 'Try Land'. Thin moves to a rest in the scoop then battle the bulge and continue up the headwall. Awesome rock quality! Traverse right to anchors on 'Try Land'.

The left most route with ringbolts. Great polished jugs with a tricky opener. Slight left trend to start then up juggy face to small ledge. Out and right to finish. Seeps after heavy rain.

Mantle up to small pocket then crux crimps. Finish up juggy face to anchor. Ringbolts.

Aka Dope Man MkII ha ha. One for the boulders and the access pitch for DNI Start. Starts off the boulders on the far L side of the large cave. Steep boulder start and up the slabby face.

4m right. Step off block to start and up short yellow streak (3 FHs) then take the left trending line of bolts up easy jugs to rap chain.

First 3 bolts of Nuclear Wasteland then take the right line of bolts. This was once a trad route but was retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start at the first bolt of 'Without Warning', but head up and slightly right to finish at anchor of 'Nuclear Novice'. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

Some nice moves. Start as for Nuclear Novice climb the first few moves of this before moving R and up the face past RBs to DRB lower off.

Starts 3m right of Dirty Bomb. RB then FH's - rising right traverse across face to corner then burrow under chockstone to chains.

Note the way the rope runs, the FH's can loosen and is why the first bolt needed replacing with the RB. Keep an eye on the others till the rest of the route is rebolted with glue-in's. RB and glue supplied by Safer Cliffs Victoria. Fixed 03/09/23

It's not a Blues Breaker or a Blues Maker. This is a linkup of Glow in the Dark and Moab. It is best for someone to 2nd it to clean it. Starts 3m right of Dirty Bomb. Rising right traverse across face to corner. Up 2m then step right across arete onto face then finish on ledge with chain.

starts 3m right of arête.Great climbing straight up wall on u bolts using nice side pulls and pockets .Consistent techie climbing at the grade.

From middle of slab (L of line of FH's), weave your way up and L to via some tricky slab moves. A tad run-out, but there is more gear than appearances suggest.

Scramble up ramp left of Blues Breaker. Juggy face to fun moves on pockets and slab above. Crux move has spat it's share of strong climbers off! Fixed hangers.

Scramble up ramp to left of Blues breaker. Nasty Nukes starts 2m right of Fickle Fission. Start the climb heading towards obvious chicken head. Then climb well featured face to fun large pockets and slab above 5 U-bolts +lower offs. A good warmup for Fickle Fission.

Looks ridiculously hard for the grade.

Reachy climbing up face between 'Bellerophon' and 'Pegleg'. Be careful with pro.

Good face-climbing with some subtle placements. Cams to #3½.

Start: Thin cracks 2m R of 'Matthew Flinders', 2m L of prominent black water streak.

Sustained face climbing on turtle shell rock.

Start: Middle of face R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Vicious Fungus', on left edge of black streak. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Black water streak 8m R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Streaks Ahead'.

Obvious line but doesn't appeal. Pro is a bit awkward to place but good. Start 5m L of 'Mistaken Identity'. Up to and through the break in the overhang and continue.

A good wall leads to a corner with a rounded finish and fiddly pro. The second hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus'. Wall into corner. Corner with dodgy protection (2 each of #3 & #4 RPs for final moves, twist the RPs if you can).

Dirty, with soft rock and sparse protection. The first hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus', 10m right of 'Mistaken Identity'. Easily up to corner then carefully up this to finish.

Beautiful thin face two metres right of 'The Visiting Bloke'. 4 FHs - the addition of a recent retrobolt has tamed the once dubiously protected start. Rap chain for descent.

Who am I? What's my purpose in life? What am I doing here? Serious climbing with poor protection and dirt. The distinctive twin seams up the centre of the face, 10m left of 'Epsilon Plus'.

The initial corner is excellent but the second half of the climb is not so good. Beware of loose blocks at the top of the main corner. Even the obvious flake-roof should be treated with respect.

Start: The attractive corner 15m R of 'Epsilon Plus'.

Pretty good. Sharp corner leading to roof on L side of terrace. Undercut start to corner, bridge past bracken to roof. Traverse L to large ledge. Rap.

The right wall and arete of Let X=X is not too hard but has it moments, particularly the finish which is sensational. The start of Let X=X provides the crux and requires trad gear. So a large rack doesn't have to be carried here is the trad gear used in order of use: #0.75 (green) Camalot, #0.4 (grey) Camalot, #0.5 (purple) Camalot, #3 (blue) Camalot, #0.75 (green) Camalot (extend with sling).

Start: Start as for Let X=X

I was going to grade it by the second-hardest move but have guessed at this. We both took a few goes on top-rope to work out the last moves but it's probably easier now it's cleaned. Sport route.

Start: The route left of 'What The Dormouse Said'.

Up past FH and gear to ledge, out through roof (FH), then veer left up nice grey wall. Up to and along the final left leading wide crack below roof.

Starting from the ground, up past FH to ledge, out through roof past 2nd FH, then veer right and straight up the featured orange/grey wall finishing steeply through jugs (careful what you pull on). Finish at abseil point.

Interesting wall climbing, culminating in a nice finger crack on the L side of the headwall. Due to the convoluted nature of the wall, it's worth scoping out your route before you start.

On the LHS of the blank overhanging wall (on ledge BELOW Agent of Cool) is a scoop (FH) which you can climb to a stance. Now keep trending up and R across wall (ignore the easier finish straight up) to an unlikely move up to shallow corner. Up to horizontal breaks, finishing via finger crack.

A movie out at the time was called Cruel Intentions. Start: Start by scrambling down to a platform of rock just below and to the left of BOTC. Climb takes the obvious (wide) left leading crack. Then head straight up wall (just before arete), past small hanging corner, and up wall past a FH. NOTE: The 2016 Gramps guide has the topo wrong - the route pictured in the guide is Ancient Evenings, and not this route.

Good face climbing on pockets on the second pitch. Could be straightened out at the top.

Start: Start as for 'Trident'.

1. 25m (14) Follow the first pitch of 'Trident' to the traverse L at 9m. Traverse L and keep going L around the arete to a ledge above the overhang. Move L along ledge to belay below L side of orange-streaked wall (2FH).

2. 25m (20) Up the grey wall, 2FH, just L of the orange streaks to a cave. Step R and pull over overhang into thin crack. When crack steepens move L to easy ground and go up.

A good climb based on 'Sternold'. Be careful with rope management around the 'Sternold' overhang.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Trident'.

Up face (FH) to ledge (some poor rock) at 8 metres. Climb directly through the overhang (small cams) and up the easier corner to a small stance on the right. Move back left and climb the steep headwall (2FH). Will probably need to go back some distance to belay (not included in length)

Start: Start 4m L of 'Spinoza' and about 15m R of 'Trident'. After negotiating the bulges at the start, this wall offers a number of ways to meander upwards via numerous brittle jugs.

Unusual groove climbing on the first pitch. Rarely, if ever, repeated. Protection looks a problem but climbing looks good.

Start: Start a few metres L of 'Germinal' at the scooped line (4m up R of Spinoza).

1. 20m (21) Trick moves up first scoop lead to hard climbing in the second scoop and so to a ledge. 'Spinoza' rap anchor is just to the left and now would be a good time to use it.

2. 30m (21) L to an easy break in the overhang, back R and up steep wall.

Climbs the wall L of Germinal (can be done in one pitch with creative rope management). Climb pitch 1 of Germinal. Delicate traverse L above roof to shallow crack in middle of the wall. Arrange gear and launch up awesome wall above, keeping slightly R on the orange rock. Finish up and L.

Quite attractive, with some good moves. Protection is good even though the old bolts are terrible. Originally two pitches but better done as one.

Start: Scramble R from the foot of 'Germinal' along the vertical wafers leaning against the main wall, to a flake crack.

Belay in the chasm just right of 'Germinal' at an old initial "A".

1. 18m (20) Easily up to the wide apparently detached flake crack and go easily up to the top of this (rotten rock, very good protection from large cams). Move L and climb the wall via the intermittent crack/seam past 2 poor bolts to a narrow ledge (poor bolt) (LOE belay is to the left) then up into a sentry box.

2. 6m (17) Fairly sensational out of the sentry-box (watch rope-drag) into the final crack.

Quite good really, but the crux is a little intense. Should be OK now that the dust has cleared.

Start: Start as for 'Incisor'.

1. 8m (20) (crux) Thin climbing on the R wall, 2 bolts, to a ledge. Large cams for belay.

2. 25m (18) Balance to bolt and follow shallow cracks, mostly to R of cracks, until the holds R of the cracks develop into a steep arete. Follow arete with increasing ease to easy slab and move diagonally R to abseil anchor for 'Empty Pockets' (40m abseil).

Big slopes.

Start: Start 1m L of the original start.

An impressive overhang. Originally graded 17! Not too hard but you'ld get a nasty thump if you fell off the crux.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Molar Buttress'.

Another great route with some pretty bold bits on the second pitch.

Start: Start at the toe of the slabs 18m R of 'Simpleton', just L of a gully.

1. 35m (16) Up easy slabs and past blocks to the cliff proper and a nice crack system up a wall. Up the crack to a slab and belay on the second ledge on the R.

2. 30m (20) Up short, wide, shallow crack (large cam) to a poorly protected reach and so to overhang (alternatively, move R from belay, go up and back L below overhang). Move past L side of overhang to overlap, L to thin crack, wild moves above gear lead up crack to next overlap/break. Go 4m L along this to the next crack/break over bulge (shared with Missing), then go L again to belay in 'Simpleton' corner. You can also traverse L along the major break across missing to reach Simpleton's 2nd belay (at the old carrot), but this is not as good.

3. 20m (16) Up the last bit of the 'Simpleton' corner to the capping roof and hand traverse L.

The survivor in a war of attrition. Double ropes (and knowing how to use them!) are helpful.

Start: Start as for 'Coolsville' to ledge at 7m. Traverse right (medium hex), up right leaning crack. Rap anchor to the right.

Puts the "F" back into 'Grampians' slabs. Take #1½, #3½ cams.

Start: Start below incipient flake 4m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!

An excellent and sustained outing offering well-protected slab and face climbing up the middle of the highest section of the wall. The 21 year-old carrots on the first pitch were recently replaced with glue-ins.

Start: Scramble R up the diagonal ramp near the R side of the Green Wall and back L (best to rope up) to the base of a smooth water runnel (the direct start is grade 22).

1. 30m (19) Bridge delicately up the obvious water-groove (mainly on its L side), past six glue-in P-bolts and a few small to medium cams. Move up L to belay/rappel rings.

2. 30m (20) Up R'wards on jugs, then up past a bolt on the smooth wall. Continue straight on up to the top of the big flake crack. Follow the sustained clean wall past four bolts to the belay/rappel rings below the fifth pitch of The Shining Path. Note that this pitch crosses the old route Drifting and a bolt was placed within reach (permission from the first ascentionist) and does not affect Drifting in any way.

3. 15m (19) The last pitch of The Shining Path.

The first pitch was originally climbed (as two very short pitches) and named Spillway by Gary Kerkin and Michael Stone in 1966, then freed by John Chapman in 1975. The route as described was climbed by Glenn Tempest and Karen Tempest when they added the second pitch in 2024.

The second pitch is the main attraction. Two sets of cams for 1st pitch.

Start: Scramble up the ramp to a notch. Start from the L side of the notch.

1. 45m (19) 'Steep' wall to ledge then slightly L-ward, keeping to cleanest rock. Step L at about 30m, up then reach L to clip B in 'Spillway'. Move back R and up.

2. 35m (21) Pull over bulge just L of small corner, up corner, L and up to obvious flake. Up to multiple wire placements, up R to another placement. Follow holds diagonally L to finish on arete and belay at L end of 'Sluice' traverse.

Upper Cave.

A great looking arete-type weakness that isn't too hard for the grade. Climb the obvious line just right of 'Donald's' start and head right to finish.

Upper Cave

Single problem right of the main business.

Sit start on the jugs on the arete.

Sit start on underclings in diagonal seam.

Sit start on low, horizontal seam.

Sit start in slot on the arete.

The obvious and beautiful right-leaning traverse. Stand-start on slopers and move rightward on beautiful edges and slopers. Mantel out right.

sit start on a jug and mantle past slopey lip.

An attractive climb with an intimidating finish. Usually done in a single pitch.

Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the boulder, at the base of the nice face crack in the middle of the grey slab.

1. 30m (18) Up finger crack to overhang, dangle around then up slabby wall to belay below headwall.

2. 10m (20) Boldly up faint scoops on headwall (small shallow wires).

This ground-up effort felt all the more intrepid for being established in single-digit temperatures with no fewer than three hailstorms on the way. It's the best moderate route down this end of the wall.

Start 2m R of Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection), and 2m L of Sordid Orchids, on the elevated ledge.

1. 25m (21) Thin orange corner then diagonally up L with feet dropping into TR for a move or two. Steeply over bulge and up the short orange flake on the R to gain slab. SHB below white bulge.

2. 15m (20) Move R over white bulge to ledge. Leftward arcing thin orange corner to the intermittent headwall crack 4m R of Atomic Tadpole's finish.

Fun traversing on superb aesthetic stone. Full set of cams. Has also been done by starting up the unpleasant flakes 10m L of Great Divide (see 16a on topo). You can do a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push).

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the far right hand end of the elevated ledge. Put your belayer on the wide ledge 6m below the start, so they can see the crux.

1. 32m (21) Step down from R end of ledge to hand traverse R under large roof, cross Great Divide, and continue traversing R to Seventh Banana's first anchor.

2. 10m (17) Continue traversing R to Sirocco's first anchor. Rap off (18m).

Fantastic sustained moves and position. Start at the original 2nd belay of Seventh Pillar (i.e. at the guano-stained stance halfway up the 2nd pitch as now described). Extend high pro, then step down from the belay to traverse 3m R to incipient flakes. Up past 2 FHs and straight up grey streak (med wire) to gain major break. Move L to belay as for the original.

2 long traversing pitches which give fantastic perspectives on the daunting territory above. Take lots of cams of all sizes. Start as for The Seventh Pillar.

1. 35m (21) Follow The Seventh Pillar to the base of the bolt ladder. Ignore the bolts and instead keep traversing right along the break to belay wherever.

2. 20m (21) Keep swinging R along the break. Originally it went until you could step onto the ground, but post-closures you should now finish sooner by reversing the first 4m of Serpentine (save a #1 cam for this bit, to protect your second).

Start up Constrictor's slab past the bolt, then (instead of traversing the break R as per the original) continue straight up following the chalked slopers of World Party's first pitch to ledge and lower-off.

Squeezed in! A Taipan slab route with a crimpy crux down low. Starts 3m right of World Party, just left of small bush growing out of horizontal crack. Boulder up tenuously onto orange slab and good pocket (FH). Step left slightly and climb slopers directly to join World Party at large horizontal. Traverse right across this for four metres to short vertical flake. Arrange pro and balance up flake onto slab (FH). Finish up slopers (FH) and over final committing bulge to ledge. Rap chain (18m).

The easiest line towards the L end with shallow cracks, pinches, laybacks etc. There are a couple of possibilities but there is one that seems to best fit the bill.

Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it.

Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'.