Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

Start by scrambling around to the top of the main cliff and aligning with the approach track. If you turn around towards the hillside, there should be a small buttress with a crack before you. The crack is it.

More or less climbs the middle of the black wall right of the pinnacle.

Left of "Whipping Boy" is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.

1. 20m (13) Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge.

2. 20m (13) Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards.

Start directly below the 'bowl'. 1) 45m Climb up into the foot of the 'bowl' then avoid major difficulty and lack of protection by skirting up and left around the 'bowl'. 2) 20m Up easily.

Climb the face 4 metres left of "Licorice Allsorts" and tend left to the corner above the roof of "Licorice Allsorts".

A minor addition. Quaint climbing up the arête R of (Baxter’s route and other crack). Just enough gear down low.

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between the North & South Pinnacles. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

Chimney right of Oh, Hum. Initial thrutching leads to pleasant climbing on good rock. From bushy ledge, climb arete on right.

First diagonal on left side of Quartz Block. From cave on arete above diagonal, go around corner then up.

The wall right of Plain English with a vertical white dyke. Up right side of wall, then ridge to juggy line to top.

Probably a repeat of the top section of Drain Pipe. Start out of The Gallery, just left of Mr Meat Step onto face from cave. Up crack for 3 metres, then veer left up weakness.

Face above block 1 metre right of 'Workaholics'.

The face just right of where the crack splits the face.

Nice climbing up obvious weakness in the middle of wall closest to road. Move left into first shallow corner at half height.

Just left of the saddle is a right-rising, discontinuous crack system. Follow the cracks at first then go straight up.

5 metres right of 'Igreiga', 1 metre left of wide corner. Up crack, continue up side of huge hollow flake and then wall above.

The crack 2 metres left of right end of small orange wall.

Start 15 metres right of 'Sidewinder'. Among the worst of the worst. Up dirty wall and then crack splitting slender buttress. Expect fragile rock.

In the middle of the wall is a dark chimney. Up 2 metres right of the chimney.

A fine route in an exposed, atmospheric setting on the left edge of the Passport recess.

Start at the square-cut chimney left of 'Mutiny', where a huge block has come away from the wall, 10 metres right of Saxon.

1. 45m (13) Bridge up the chimney and arete. Near the top, move onto the left wall and follow a diagonal line up left to a prominent vertical line. Go up to a small stance.

2. 10m (-) Up to next ledge.

3. 45m (13) When the line runs out, climb the bulge and continue straight up the wall to a prominent notch on the skyline.

Start as for Back Alley, 3 metres left of Summer Breeze. Up to left-facing corner then the face above this.

The prominent corner 2 metres left of WGTGOOTW. Corner then overhang to ledge then large, juggy corner.

The original climb on the cliff. Starts just left of Iron Side. Climb the major hand crack and corner above the ledge, belay below the ledge. Walk to the lower tree at the edge of the cliff and rap.

The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall.

Start: Start just where the track emerges from the bivvy cave area.

Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.

Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf'

Wide corner on left side of bushy alcove a few metres right of where the old pad straight up from Waterworks Track reaches the cliff.

Start at a tree at the base of the left wall of the Sundae gully.

Climb the wall for 10 metres then move up left to a large ledge. Climb the arete on the right.

Amusing start and a good continuation

Start 10 metres left of the Sundae gully at an undercut corner.

Pull into corner and up it and easy chimney.

First route as you reach the crag.

Easy angled arete 3m right of Hidden MSG. Start just left after small cave. First route done at Troposphere. Up over low bulge (crux) and ramble up juggy arête on great rock. Good access route to upper tier.

Ladder to Top. Bit loose at Top.

Grey face/wall right side of arête, 3m around & right of Morals and Dogma. Climb up through obvious shallow scoop and straight up staying to the right hand side of arête. Careful of loose rock near top. Belay at small tree in-between rocks.

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress.

Climb the steep groove on the left and then follow cracks up the slab to the right-hand end of the overlap. Exciting moves left lead to a bottomless corner which is followed to the top.

Climb the corner just left of "Brittle Bondage" and then a juggy groove.

Start as for Wheelchair Slalom.

Up for 3 metres, then take vertical crack on right face up to left side of block. Stepping up take diagonal crack on left for 3 metres then straight up.

Start off ledge on right side of face. Up through bulge and tend right.

Energetic moves up the foot of the arete lead to easier ground. Follow the left edge of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Quakers" at the right arete of its corner.

Start at the right edge of the wall.

1. 30m 13 Climb the bulging wall and traverse right to the tree(?). Continue up the groove to pass left of a roof. When confronted by appalling jugs, move right and up to belay.

2. 40m Up through further surreal jugs to the top.

Start as for The Third Man.

1. 45m Up to the tree then step right and go up to the right end of the roof and then go directly up. 2, 30m Jugs to the top.

Start at the short, shallow corner. Up the corner, step left and up the corner above. Step right at roof and up.

Sit start on large jug rail and jug your way to the top. This is also the best way off the boulder.

Straight up to the flake, then up.

Start: Start at the left side of the "dished out" section of wall, directly below the flake in the middle of the wall.

Direct start to Decapitating Tweety Birds. Start 4 metres left of that climb. Up to and along the crack.

Diagonally up right over the first overlap to left-leaning overlap. Surmount and follow the crack running diagonally left and up.

Start: Start left of "Bohemian" at the left wall of the buttress below a fault in the initial overlap.

Up and right to a thin crack and up to a ledge. Up a short crack and left to a long crack which is followed to the top.

Start: Start on the main slab 3 metres left of the "Five O'Clock Shadow" wall.

Straight up initial the slab, moving right across "Minties" just past the ledge to finish up the middle of the upper slab.

Start: Start as for "Minties"

Good climbing up the most pronounced crack-line on the wall. Start 1 metre left of Minties Up the line, near the top stay mainly in the left of two cracks, switching back to the right to finish (loose blocks).

Start: Start on the arete 3 metres left of "Storm Warning"

1. 25m (13) The line 1 metre left of the arete and folow it past some roofs on the left to a good belay platform.

2. 23m (13) Steeply up left on good holds then continue up the line, taking the left crack in the upper wall.

Lovely clean line 1.5m L of More Energy.

The left of two widish cracks about 30 metres right of "Anne Boleyn".

Interesting, fairly direct route with little in the way of traverses or terrace-bashing.

Start: Start 50 metres up from view-point on the walking track at base of second buttress from left (just left of "Babylon"

1. 40m (13) Overhang to start then up buttress. Pass leaning arete/pillar to ledge above (take care of big blocks as you step onto ledge).

2. 40m (13) Up and right a bit to line that leads to ledge. Climb big wall above, keeping 2-3 metres right of arete.

3. 40m (-) On up to top of buttress, jump across gap and climb easily to First Terrace.

4. 10m (-) Jump and traverse left as for "The Flying Dutchman".

5. 35m (-) Up the chimney of "The Flying Dutchman".

6. 35m (-) Continue up the chimney finishing up the left arete, facing out, to the Second Terrace.

7. 50m (12) Up skyline ridge, starting just left of roof, to summit.

The line 8m right of Pope's Nose.

Climb the right edge of the black rock left of "Whisky-A-Go-Go" (this is just left of Andy Long's unpublished route?)

Good climbing for the grade. Good climbing for the grade. Takes the overhanging corner on the right side of the buttress, right of the grey wall of Stick Insect

Start at a wide chimney at the right end of the outcrop. Reach the base of the chimney by scrambling in from the right along a ledge.

Up the chimney until forced out onto the arete. Follow the crack above to a large roof and step left to finish.

Follow the crackline then steeply to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Alexis'

Near the left edge of the right wall is a vertical crack. Scramble up and left on 2 blocks to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the top, taking care with the rock at the top.

Pull up to traverse line then traverse above the lip of overhang almost to the dark brown rock (25m) then up finish via a short corner.

Start: Start 2 metres left of "A Couple Of pansies".

Hideously fragile finish. Start as for Tower Of Silence.

1. 25m (13) Climb the groove and make the swkward step left around the arete. Take the rising line left across the face to belay below a small overhang near the left arete.

2. 40m (13) Crux. Follow a ramp up right to a steepening. Traverse left to the arete of the tower with hands in the horizontal break. Follow the arete to the top passing innumerable heinous jugs.

Start at the left side of the pyramid, as for Pyramid Power.

1. (22m, -) Up left wall of corner to large slab/ledge.

2. (25m, 13) Up crack at right end of ledge then the crack on the left to a delicate traverse right to a crack which leads to the top. Poorish rock on this pitch.

Climb the ragged flake above the start of the ramp.

Start on arete 8 metres right of Beestings On A Boofhead Climb wall to large ledge and continue up headwall.

There aren't enough chances to practise this technique. The body-crack down right of Dug Scott.

The slab.

Start: Start about 50 metres up and around left from 'Goldfinger' Wall, towards the back of the crag is a short slab.

Start on left-hand side of wall of the main tier. Climb wall just right of arete.

Geddit? The next wall down has a pillar forming its left arete. Climb the crack 1 metre right of the arete.

Prominent right-veering crack about 50 metres downhill and right of the other climbs.