Ascents in New South Wales and ACT by Tim M-S

2nd pitch is truly a route for Goblins and Hobbits. People of normal height will find desperation in spades. A flaring, slightly overhung diagonal crack/chimney which offers some good foot jams for the left foot but little for your right foot which flounders uselessly out on the smooth face.

Classic Ewbank route, a must for crack connoisseurs, probably safer to climb the chimney on the third pitch rather than venture right on dubious rock.

This is a great route! Two long sustained pitches with good rock (for the Blueys), fine wall climbing to begin with then the airy and committing arete. Definitely three stars. Don't be fooled like I was last time with Lisa Vitaris when we believed the guide book, went 50m from Serendipitous Crack and got sandbagged on Remembering McKinnon ( The climb starts up a short corner below a roof-let then moves out right of the arete and up the wall.

Will have to change the description when I get back home to: takes the main prow of the right hand most prominent buttress of the glissade gully wall. Start up prominent steep crack in yellow/green lichen stained rock, to pedestal then a couple of layback moves up thin crack to rooflet, continue straight up slightly leftwards, following crack system to finish on easy layback - handy if you have a no 6 cam but not essential. 30 metres. Sustained and engaging from bottom to top. Realistic grade is 20.

As described great finger crack but sadly broke a hold at crux and pulled two small cams to hit the ground. The cams were placed deep enough but the rock is too soft and they pulled. Wouldn’t recommend it to anyone unless another bolt is placed, I was lucky just to get away with some bruises and a suspected broken rib. Maybe Groundfalll would be a better name?

Great and varied climbing but hard starts to 1st and 2nd pitches(harder than the grade)! Big cams at start of second pitch would make it slightly less scary!

Classic corner. Smoothest jamming this side of Yosemite but lichenated to the hilt. Needs a bloody good brush top to bottom. Would be well worth rapping in to do this. Unfortunately the route got burned in recent fires so any soil has turned to dust - making it the perfect time to clean it!! We didn't have the tools, had I known we definitely would have! The approach is gnarly but treat it as a stiff walk then its manageable, just don't do it on a 35 degree day as we did.

Strenuous!! Despite the easy to place pro I kept running out of juice. Great jambing but glad I had gloves!

very enjoyable, quite varied climbing, well worth doing. The first pitch felt more like 22.

Nice wall - untrafficked!

an offwidth with no compulsory offwidth moves. You only need a no.1 camalot near the bottom, a number 6 to recycle btween bolts and a number 4 is easy at the right edge of the roof.

Hard then harder!! Difficult clips and a cool home made looking peg banged into a drilled hole. Not great in the hot afternoon sun and you need to make sure you're on top of your slab climbing game!

Perfection

Had to work both hard moves but especially the crux move - without beta the pocket that you have to make a dyno for looks like it is shaped to cut your fingers off! While it is sharp it falls short of actually making the cut! With bit of concentrated power you can static it...

In addition, I think the horrid first pitch is better climbed up the right corner rather than the left! No mention that most of the bolts are carrots (should have realised it was early on in Mikl's Grose explorations - even more exciting using wires on them) take 8 hangers to be on the safe side and better if they're the thin flat ones as a lot of the carrots are in a little too deep to fit 90 degree hangers. Rather than use the hanging belay I went up to the Turtle beach ledge and used wires and small cams to belay from.

Every time I walk past this it says ‘climb me!’ So I do.

This would be a mega classic if it was cleaned and had two more bolts on it - a lot of rope drag so best done in two pitches - hanging belay at top of thin crack on White Lion then straight up on right side of arete - -keep calm, don’t fall!

Very enjoyable -need a long sling to rap off the belay bolts at the top to save the walk down track

It’s a classic corner with classic cornery moves - but is still a bit fresh! Needs a bit more soil dig out and a bit of brushing or rain. Belay ledges could be tidied up a little too

A bit sandy after rain

A bit sandy after rain

3rd &4th pitches really enjoyable, 2nd pitch awkward thrutchy, and very hard!!

Is onsight with rest an oxymoron? Well deserving of mega star status!

the first pitch felt hard for 18 but perhaps that's because it the first pitch and Im rusty from not climbing much lately...

The snug belay under the roof is on some hollow sounding blocks - they are most probably safe but treat them gently!

Harder than Solomon for me

Yes it is strenuous so I had a rest then annoyingly my foot slipped as I was laybackinh the chimney

As good as the hype, if not better! No falls but had to rest a couple of times, I was a tad nervous climbing with a Blueys newbie who did very well!

Fun climb up a great line.One or two moves on the crux feel like 23 but maybe it was the cold - it lived up to its name today!

solid warm-up

good place to finish to if you're walking ad stil have gas in t he tank

climb out with pack - alpine practice!

exciting first few moves off the second belay!

a good option for a drizzly day - mostly dry apart form a few 'alpine' moments on wet holds. A fun climb on surprisingly good rock. Tip: don’t place a cam just before the lip of the roof, place it after or the cam will be dragged up by the rope and get badly stuck (duh!)

just as good second time around