Routes in Central Tablelands

Great technical climbing just L of the vegetated crack. Solid, consistent and crimpy.

Shares the same anchor as RT about 20m higher then it should be.

Start on big jug and traverse left to scoop.

The right side of the arete- Flight Line for the masses.

3 stainless carrots and apparently some gear to newly installed lower off. (old chains will be removed later)

Start on big jug and traverse right and finish on the arete

Thin start to techy face tending right to shared anchors.

First ascent to Adrian Brogan. Chossy power fest on far left of Sine Cave boulder...nice!

Start just left of the chimney. Red scoops protected by cams in a break out left then honeycomb to a single BB. Take care

Start matched on rail. Up to good sidepull using your choice of broken footholds. Throw to left sloper then a straightforward topout.

The short face on far right side of Mossy Wall, directly opposite the creek from Wet Feet Boulder. Top-out to double carrots on the top for belay - then walk off.

Dangerous! DO NOT ATTEMPT!

Line of rings furthest R. A great route with no particular crux, up to chain lower offs.

How you feel after inputting the data into the online guide.

The main and best warm up at the crag. Some of the best rock at main wall, guaranteed to raise a solid pump. It's supposed to start up the blunt arête but most people stay a bit left on the juggy flake of Desafinado.

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

The left glue in carrot route to the chain. Details unknown? The hardest route at the crag, sequenced moves see you past the lower crux if you move your feet.

On the rounded nose left of 'Pump up the jam'. Get past the cave by propping up off boulder.

Leftmost route (facing the crag).

First two pitches as for Iron Lady the out left and up face to eventually traverse back to Echo Crack and the walk off there.

18M6 or free at 26 R.

Start: Main corner/crack system on left side wall. Good rock and climbing down low, becoming more serious and difficult towards the top.

Birdbeaks/Peckers may be advisable as increasingly the original fixed pitons are breaking…

Frothy Thomson working Titan

A good juggy warm up arete. A couple of tricky moves here and there but good value.

3 interesting sections with full rests between

Obvious crack line angling into Catastrophe Corner, then taking right hand exit at top.

After trying the direct start at small roof, try increasing further left, but no further then the tree, until you can get established on wall. Either head up slightly to gear or traverse into line and some gear. Follow crack, a bit of gear to stonking Medium cams then slight runout up to ramp and gear. Join CC at the top but continue up and right to exit.

Wires and cams. Tree belay over the top.

As for LOD to second ring, step L, follow rings (long slings), then find a way through the overlap at its right end and onto the headwall above (rings) where things get interesting.

Up to ledge. 2).Crack on left to slot. 3).Left,slightly up to piton(!),up to shield, across left then up,veer left to small ledge,rest,Scrubby crack to wide point, step right & up to ledge. 4).Mantle to trees, to ledge. 5). As for EP. Take Care!!

Start: 25m right of the previous. Short corner.

A good wall and rib. This climb celebrates Harry’s 80th birthday and over 50 years of climbing. Start: 3 metres right of H. Up wall with 3 BR and cams if you desire. Up to DFLO at ledge.

optional cams

Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.

Phillip Booth

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

A mixed route with bolted belays. All bolts are glue in FH's , ringbolts or Ubolts. No boltplates necessary.

Bring standard single rack including micro cams and DOUBLE #4 AND #5 CAMALOTS!!

First pitch is concealed by left arete of Redbelly Wall. Although the climb is 15m left of Redbelly , the small shute between them is loose. Approach by walking along small undercut ledge behind the detached block that forms the base of Redbelly. This brings you to base of wide corner and ringbolt. Stickclip the bolt as getting of the ground is tough.

1. 25m (18) Up awkwardly for a few meters then up passing three RBs to a DRB. A few #5 cams are handy both at the start and end of this route.

2. 15m (18) Ooze up, plug a #5 in and head out to arete passing a few bolts and a hidden hold. Tentatively place a few cams in break and carry on up arete jugs past a few more bolts to an arete slapping move. Belay on large comfortable ledge.

3. 20m (20) Re-establish belay at bolts 5m left under face. Up past small cam and wire then a few bolts. Pop a med cam in break then head right to a good handjam reach. Clip ubolt then froth on the crux of the whole route. Carry on over top and up to base of next obvious corner.

4. 20m (16) Plug in a big cam then up the corner. Stem left below first FH and continue through steep corner. Extend your last peice in crack and possibly place tiny cam on face on left before stepping left 2m on face to avoid dirty loose finish. 2xFH belay on edge above nice pedestal.

Stay roped up for loose edge and belay from cam, tree, or threads above on track.

Open

Layback crack on small ledge above track 5m left of the crack with the tree in it.

Keep off the 'Arete'.

8m to the right of Its Finger Likn Good. Starts in the cave area as well.

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious. If you use the Frolic crack at the start it knocks this down to a really nice grade 13ish.

Starts 15m R of Green Grass and takes the line of maximum steepness to join Green Grass on the upper headwall, hopefully finishing up High Hopes into Nilp (!!). It's like a mirror image of Tiger Cat, but heaps bigger, badder, steeper, harder ... and mossier.

Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Stop at chains at 30m and lower back to the deck.

There are several lines to the right of Ristretto that end under 'the great roof' that are in the process of being bolted.

Nice hand crack to start into some less attractive looking rock.

Downhill and right of Tosca is this wide hand-crack that leads to juggy grey headwall. No first ascent info known.

Found on face directly off fire trail. Left line on black face. Climbs up face with some interesting moves up to shared anchor.

In the memory of our buddy Graham Smith.

And Yes, there is a sweet spot to it!

Back on main track, up slab past and over flake to face and up to shared anchors.

The line up the obvious corner system. First pitch has been freed, two to go.

A new Grkovic master piece of glue and pins to create a steep and bouldery direct start to Suction pump. A sling on the second bolt helpful.

At the bottom on inside wall of gully.

The arching crack then up the wall past carrots to ledge and then to top.

Clamber to ledge via rungs and rope. Route starts off log and was done WITHOUT bridging into the corner.

Up crack topping out into groove

Info lacking on this. Roof crack down low that quickly finishes on ledge.

Marked. Start at flake 600m R of OW.

Ringbolted wall left of 100ft Slab corner. Looks reasonably hard at one point - mid 20s? Anyone have further info?

Chimney

Bolted line right of Sacred Ground done as one epic long pitch. Slab up the bowl to start (scary to first bolt) then launch up juggy wall, trend left across overhung "cave" and up face above.

Step into under of overlap trending slightly left and over

Up the left side of the face to cave then exit right and straight up headwall.

Potentially quite dangerous. Start at the splitting crack to the right of the big corner under the obvious roof. Up this to tree, better than it looks. Into corner system on left and up through limestone-esque cave features to horrifying shield. Gingerly commit to shield then awkward moves into chimney and up to bolted anchor. It would not be pretty if this shield dislodged with belayer below. There is a pitch (open project) above this that looks quite good, although it was too wet to climb it on our visit. Previous high point (just below shield) set by Brad Carmady.

5m right of Unknown3. Rusty old dogger bolts with faded '90s Mamba quickdraws just right of major corner feature.

Start as for the doctor, instead of doing the big move on the nurse, continue low for a couple more compression moves until you're at the slopey jug of Go Go Gadget then finish up Oxycel

Phillip Booth

Start two finger left under cling/side pull, two finger right gaston. Shares one hold (right hand) with Thin Times half way up.

Short, easy slab a few metres left of Kedumba Sisters. 4 ring bolts swing around towards arete then back right to 2 RB lower-off.

Unknown setter and first ascensionist. Suggested name: Megalong Goodhas ('children' in Gundungurra)