Routes as unknown in Central Tablelands

Start: Just left of Subterfuge Direct on the right of a gully.

1. 10m Either start up a toe-jamming crack or easier wall to left. Continue up the corner using isolated jugs to a large ledge.

2. 24m Continue more or less straight up the wall in a series of steps.

"A pleasant climb on good rock."[JME] JME also declared both bolt anchors "unnecessary".

Start: About 15m left of IOU at obvious layback cracks.

1. (28m) (crux). Up layback, through bushes and up blocks to below overhang. Piton runner, over bulge on good holds, and continue up thin wall into belay cave, bolt anchor.

2. (18m) Over the bulge to left, and up to bolt anchor. Scrambling remains.

Variant start to Rhum Cognac. Start: Chimney/gully about 15m right of Rhum Cognac slab.

1. (10m) corner to ledge (tree).

2. (30m) move left into chimney and up to join the Rhum Cognac V-chimney.

#Historical "The glamour climb of the area. A spectacular looking face and its first ascent (after several free attempts) was the first to use extensive artificial aids. 3/8" eyebolts are needed." [BA]

Start: Scramble up Green Salad Gully to slight overhang on left, beneath which the climb traverses onto the face.

1. (28m) Traverse left onto face, Terrier (eyebolt) runner on nose, continue up to pulpit type stone.

2. (10m) (crux, was M2) chossy crack and left to bolt belay.

3. (6m) Left up to small ledge and bush belay.

4. (22m) Tricky start, then right and off to finish an airy and exhilarating (exposed) climb.

Start: 10m left of Desperately Seeking Stephen.

1. Up gully 5m and right to ledge (bolt belay). Nose and slab (6 bolt runners) then right to join Desperately Seeking Stephen at last bolt runner.

Start: At undercut arete 200m W of Devils Hole.

1. 8? bolt runners to chain. 1.5-2.5 cams

Independent line starting a few metres right of Rhythm Method.

Balance wall-climbing with good rock but poor protection.

Start: Right arete of Easy Gully (5m left of Virgo).

1. 27m (crux) Up arete for 8m then right to nose and up slab trending right to ledge below corner in overhang and piton belay.

2. 12m Up corner to ledge, trend left and up overhang to top and bollard belay.

Hard, fair rock.

Start: 5m right of Libra at right of rise in track below open corner with one yellow wall.

1. 26m (crux) Up wall to yellow overlap, over and up wall into corner up to small roof up on left side and up wall to first below of Libra.

2. 12m Pitch 2 of Libra.

A classic layback start.

Start: 7m left of Zodiac Crack in obvious layback crack on ground level.

1. 9m (crux). Up crack and traverse right 6m to piton belay.

2. 23m Traverse right to arete and up to bushy ledge and tree belay.

3. 12m As for Zodiac Crack.

A hard traverse.

Start: In flared dirty crack 4m right of Zodiac Crack.

1. 21m Up crack to ledge and gully behind, out onto right wall and up to fern-covered ledge and nut or bollard belay.

2. 30m (crux) Up to next ledge, delicately edge right to ramp, then up nose under small roof and on to left wall and up to tree belay.

Second pitch exposed.

Start: 15m right of Aries at broken orange corner capped by roof, paint marked S at track level.

1. 18m Up crack trending right to overhang (M0 thread aid) then up to ledge above and bolt belay.

2. 21m (crux) Up to mossy ledge, left a few feet, up to tree runner, diagonally left over bulge, up next bulge and easily to top (tree belay).

A beautiful crack and an interesting chimney.

Start: 5m right of Sagittarius in red crack capped by small overhang.

1. 24m (crux) Up crack to overhang, traverse right 2m, mantleshelf onto ledge, up chimney onto scrubby ledge on right (tree belay).

2. 12m Traverse right to, and up, corner (tree belay).

A delicate, awkward corner.

Start: In yellow corner 10m left of [old] abseil point.

1. 24m (crux) Up easily to ledge, up to top of corner, traverse right to ledge, up overhang (tricky) and crack to ledge (tree belay).

2. Up pitch 2 corner of Taurus.

A strenuous crack, good jamb protection.

Start: Obvious crack marked A, just left of broken corners below vegetated gully which appears to be the old abseil point.

1. 20m (crux) Up crack to broken ledge below overhang, left around nose and bulge (or mantleshelf onto it) then up to sloping ledge and up juggy wall behind.

2. 6m Up crack behind (tree belay).

An exposed, direct line on good rock.

Start: Centre of grey wall to right of old abseil point.

1. 11m Straight up steep wall to ledge and bolt belay. Rusty old carrot visible 2m above ledge at 6m.

2. 21m Delicately up red corner to roof, right onto nose and up overhang and wall above to ledge (tree belay).

3. 12m Easily up wall behind (tree belay).

Please contact if you find the location of this cliff.

Take me to your leader.

The wall left of Hard Day's Night. Straight up the wall to reach L into a wide crack. Up onto small ledge then follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

Another previously unrecorded route. Chiseled initials below short section of orange thin cracks leading to steep corner and small roof. There is a line of rusty carrots leading right along the lip off choss to the right of the steep corner as well.

Start: Unknown. Piton and bolt runners and large cams?

1. Slab.

2. Seam.

Open project. Bolted as such, and trying it does not warrant closing it! Heads right after MPW crux. Intense roof to jug, at around gr. 29 then some non stop superduper hard bouldering to top. Needs a run of dry weather for final hardest meters above hornblower to be dry. Belay boltplate and biner stolen early 2023. Bring a bolt plate to use on bolt left of high stickclip ubolt, rather than MPW belay bolts as route takes a hard right line.

Carrots. Grade only a rumour. Looks good.

Start: Behind bushy tree on north-facing orange wall.

The obvious, large undercut arête.

1. 23m (18) Start around left on easy block. Traverse right to arête and first bolt. Then up via 6 rings and medium cams to DRBB. (The direct start is about 20,)

2. 6m Ugly thuggery through overhung mess. 5 bolts, no lower off.

Start at arête 30m R of Shazzam. Jump to jug, then traverse immediately right. Up through bouldery section (crux), then left to great climbing up arête. Mostly bolts plus cams (one large ~4, one small ~0.5). No lower-off - top belay. Note: Descent for this and other routes is by rapping from rings above Bam ba Lam.

Start: Same as 'Calm'.

To tree on right wall, wall via bolts, right to arete then lookout.

Start: 300m right of 'Solo Climb' at huge right angled corner with chimney in right wall.

1. 23m Chimney to tree.

2. 20m Chimney to tree.

[No you are not not reading double - Ed.]

Small corner, a couple of rusty carrots and an old double bolt belay with white sling halfway up wall. If you know more info please add! Topo line is a guess.

Carrots visible on orange wall up high. Not sure where this starts. If you know more info please add it!

Big Top duplicate route to be deleted

Major bolted arete. Bolts are all rusty FHs. Faintly marked "H" 3m left of Senile Dementia.

1. (20m) Balancy first move to pocket then left onto arete (FH) and up to ledge (double FH).

2. (30m) Up wall past bolt to bulge, left around it to rampy groove then slab above to BR. Continue up arête to top. - K.Bell

8m right. Marked BAU. Undercut start then long wall above with lots of bolts.

Several carrots up wall immediately right of Donkey.

Very good. Steep with tech moves for feet.

Direct start and finish to Monsters Ball

Hard start (dyno from cairn) into more dynamic climbing. 25M1 if clipping and pulling to first bolt.

Another old trad line only recently written up. Sustained climbing up rightward slanting crack on pinkish rock.

1. 15m Up groove then move slightly left. Up for a few moves then back right to crack through bulge. Follow crack to ledge.

2. 25m Move diagonally right a few moves up slab, then trend back left to ledge at base of obvious crack. Up crack to horizontal break. Traverse right and follow crack to small ledge below final bulge.

3. 8m Follow crack to small roof, climb it to reach jugs leading to top. Tree anchor.

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in (i.e. towards Shipley Upper), there's a small overhang 30m along here before the waterfall. This route was deemed inappropriate and was erased by removing all bolts.

Classic type climb starting up a steep wall leading to a chimney/groove.

30m L of Pyro.

1. Groove, L to ledge and tree belay.

2. Wall then flake (sling tree) to small tree.

3. Bulge, slight left and up to tree.

The mega extension to Utopia. very Athletic, über pumper to the end.... a full 80m rope gets you down to the ground, or rethread at first anchors.

slab 5 m right of Pyro. Technical slab climbing. You'll either love it or hate it!!!! Depending on your skills could be anything between 25-27!!