Routes as trad in New South Wales and ACT

Start at the 1m roof leading to a flake.

1. Scamble up the block, move right under the roof and then up the flake to a ledge.

2. From the right hand end of the ledge, follow the arete to the top.

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

A fine little wall to the right of the arete. A small cam and then two bolts. Tree belay.

2m right of 'Don't Chew the Fat'. Up the short crack and move left at top to exit.

Starts in the middle of the slab 5m right of "Grab The Gristle". Directly up with good gear in the breaks then punch through the overhang. Climb up then left to a tree belay.

Through the breaks to a cave.

About 15 m right of Bitter Fingers, just past the small ridge. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.

Up wall using small cams.

A link-up. Climb Sealed With A Glascow Kiss for about 5m and then traverse right to finish up Basic Instinct.

A great wall route with superb moves on great rock. 3 bolts and trad gear.

About 8m right of 'Basic Instinct'. Make one move up left into crack then follow the crack to the tree A bit loose near the top.

3m left of Bartman. climb the thin flake to the ledge then up the wall. One bolt plus small cams. Tree belay.

The left of two cracks 1m apart. Small cams and then step left to chains. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.

Classic. - Start at large corner with huge roof. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top. If you can deal with the first few feet of loose(ish) rock it is well worth it for the fun 'no hands rest' on the tooth of rock and for the excellent finish up the final wall.

10m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the flake and then the crack. Veer left and up. 3 bolts plus trad gear.

Up short wall (2 bolts) then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish (trad gear) to a bolt belay.

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Shares a start with Punters and Collectors. Head left from the crack, up wall with cams and 3 bolts.

Named after the great 'Animal' (an infamous climber of the era).

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

Wall 2m right of Punters and Collectors. 1 bolt plus trad gear to tree anchor.

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

The left, overhanging crack to small tree belay. Requires a full rack.

Start 5m right of 'Zarzoff'. An obvious V corner with roof. Up corner. Exit roof on left and up crack to top.

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. Up onto ledge then easy rock to corner then head left past a bolt to the ledge above Whipping Boy. Trad belay.

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

Zig-zag crack to under large boulder then exit right. Originally done with all trad gear but a bolt was added 2 years later by the first ascentionist.

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

The crack 2m left of Blue Sky Mining.

2m right of Twister. Up a pumpy, overhanging wall past a bolt and some silver stick (?), through a roof, past some cams to two new arms!!!

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.

This climb is designed to be a novice's first lead, It is all natural with good placements for SLCD. A chain belay is waiting on a reasonable ledge

Vere left for 3m from start, 2NP one near start for belayer/2nd. Slight run out after 2nd pro. Straight up for next bit, 2 BR's, then a NP. Vere left 1.5m along a ledge to next BR, the NP belay. Easy top pitch with a couple of NP. Go around to the right of small tree near top. If doing in one pitch watch for rope line.

It is also possible to traverse to the bolt belay on Chilli Sauce to climb it as a single pitch with lower-off.

Start as for Salt. Natural up to first bolt runner (3m) on face next to honey comb section. Climbs tends to the left. Up onto sloppy ledge. Run out to next bolt runner or find a natural. This bit can be a little tricky if you are not feeling confident. Clip next bolt and up over small overhang. Another bolt on next small overhang. Up and on top of this to balance up a face, BR on face. Up and onto large ledge. NP on ledge then out to the left to go to the chain. More NP available if needed.

Start as for salt. Vere right for 2m to top of honeycomb. Up through V shape to the left. Follow BR line to belay ledge. 4BR's, 2 NP to belay ledge. Climb can be finished at this ledge, by going to the chain on Chilli Sauce to the left. Watch out for the wasp that inhabit the crack on the big ledge.

Start on face right of pepper. 5 bolt runners plus natural. Might be a good one to practice with two ropes. Up face to first BR. NP to gain 2nd BR. Straight up a little left of overhang to gain BR on overhang face. Travers across to the right to big ledge. Clip BR then up onto face, then traverse left passed two BR's. Continue slightly left and up running it out to big ledge on left. Continue left traverse to chain on left above large ledge.

NP route. Up the open book cnr crack, then traverse to line above the bolt on T. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

First move is more a 18/19. For an easier start move left about half way between Thunder and Toe Wacker - move up for about half a move then traverse to bolt. Probably more in-keeping with the overall grade. Clip first bolt then NP to top. Same top section as TW. Sweet hand Jam just above 2nd pro. Follow the NP line taking you around the right of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

Start about 5m left of Cinders. Straight up crack for about 12m - natural pro. After clipping first ring bolt head slightly left and up thru open book corner past one more ring bolt and natural pro to chains

Start about 5m left of Cinders. Straight up crack for about 12m - natural pro (same first 12m as Her Dirty Mixed Route ). After clipping first ring bolt traverse right about 1m and up past 2 more ring bolts and natural pro to small ledge . Clip ring on ledge before clipping ring just around small roof .Climbed left of last ring to double lower off rings at top to keep grade as listed or up the grade a few notches by staying right of last ring.

Nice balancy start. Crux move half way up with an undercling using high feet. (probably easier if you are tall). Some surprisingly nice holds on this interesting route. Chain for belay.

An all natural crack route a few meters left of 'Flamingo Crack'. Move to top of crack then mosey left following NP line to finish at a chain belay. A little strength zapping but nice.

Open book corner crack to the far right of the crag. Before the crag section breaks up Follow crack line to chain on left. Easier than it looks. NP. Belay off chain or natural.

Up through broken ledges and right and follow crack line to first big ledge. Natural up under corner then traverse out right for 3m along overhang then pull up onto prominent ledge. Move to runner up and left and then come back right and up. Traverse out right to clip next runner on honey combed wall. Crux move to thin underneath ledge then left to gain a position to place a SLCD. (strenuous). Strong moves up and right to clip. Exit top and belay from chains or trees.

All natural. Most of the route is probably 18ish but the crux section through the corner crack around half way is a testy 21. Start is approx 3m right of the corner crux section - rightish of the jutting overhang, Climb left until ledge below crux then up corner crack. Move right and follow natural pro line right then left to finish at tree.

Same start as 'Bucanner Blood'. Sweet start with easy moves protected by a cam swinging out and around a overhanging section. Clip first bolt runner then up on big ledge to place some natural. Make you way onto next ledge to left of next bolt and clip. Crux move of this ledge and up to small pocket and next bolt runner. Strong moves to next ledge for a deserved rest and next clip. Start the next move and clip above small overhang and reach high to step up right onto awkward balancing ledge. Stand tall and clip last runner for an easy finish. Belay off bolt runners (spread out) and natural.

3 bolt runners and 4 to 5 cams. Start left under overhang and swing around onto face on great holds. Up left past first bolt onto large ledge ('dropledge'). Move to the left side of large ledge and then up past 2nd and 3rd bolts. Three moves here through these bolts to a natural placement is the crux and sweetesh part of the route - very nice moves. Up through pocket with natural placements to top out on next big ledge. Belay of bolt runner straight above and bolt runner 2 m to the right.

Starts at far right of big overhang. 1st Pitch - Up crack to about 5m and then start traversing left for about 20m , cams and ringbolts. Natural belay (or use ringbolt plus cams). 2nd Pitch - Keep heading left for about another 25m , all natural until just around corner, natural belay. 3rd Pitch Keep heading left for about another 20m, all natural until you reach lower off chains or turn around and traverse back (140m climb). Tons of exposure.Project

7m right of Hedron. Start on ledge. Thin pro at start. Sling up top around large rock for belay on small ledge.

Arete route above Seaena & Headron. Self belay route used to climb out. Only access is to abseil in. Probably won't be done by anyone due to access problem. Good though due to exposure.

5m right of Seaena. Sweet climb on nice orange sandstone rock. Follow bolt line. Natural pro as needed. Eye bolts at top for belay & descent.

Thin pro at start up to small tree.

A few meters right of Merlin's Platform. Has a Blank orange wall in the middle with one bolt. Crux is from the bolt up. Mostly big slopers 1 bolt & natural pro. Natural belay.

1m right of Merlins platform. Up on to small ledge to place first cam. Up to sloper to clip first bolt. Two crimps, feet up, (right foot as far to left as possible for max. height), right layoff, and balance up to pocket. Clip bolt then up onto ledge and run out to top. Belay off Merlins platform (2bolts, & cam or Hex for directional. Technical & sweet.)

15m right of Bealzibbs Revenge . Straight up to platform using small wires. Has a fun dyno in the middle. Easy if you are tall. Belay at top. Natural Pro.

About 40m North of 'Alice's Crux' . An overlap crack with a tricky slightly overhanging finish. Chain belay. Great for offsets.

10m right of Bealzibbs Revenge. Great route at the grade, often used as a warm up being directly below some abseil chains (top rope). Has it all, hand jam at start, sloper to pocket then pull up, more slopers then mantle on right arm with lay off left hand hold, then finish on edges past left of tree. Great stuff.

Well north of 'Grease Mantle' where the cliff is doubled tiered. Up 2.5m blank wall past one bolt to crack in corner. Then layback up to small overhanging ledge. Fist jam behind ledge and traverse 2m, R, to end of ledge. Then up small blank black wall to double bolt belay. 1 bolt then NP. Beware loose rocks.

Directly above Bealzibbs Revenge. Three empty pockets, face down at top. Basic but fun. Natural Pro, double bolt belay.

Above "'Cauldron' on the 3rd tier. Has a Hard start depending on your height. Easy in the middle. Pumpy finish. natural pro, natural belay.

2 bolts and natural pro

2 bolts and natural pro

2 bolts and natural pro, natural belay

2 bolts and natural pro

1. Jump start then climb juggy overhang up to ledge then up to chains.

2. Move up large steps approx 8m, climb corner crack to roof and up past loose block, (but secure) up corner crack to small roof and then up to chains.

15m to the right of I.F.T.S. Straight forward and pleasant climbing to crux. Above crux the rock becomes a little softer. Make way up corner crack to ledge.

3m to the right of Woosca. Up wall using cams and bolts, a few reachy moves and underclings. Trend a little left around block and then up to mantle. Once on small ledge then up and a little right to chains.

3m right of Sticky Fingers. Project - Marc Bailey

2m right of Sweet Glenreagh. Project Marc Bailey

Up tricky crack then head left up through a bulge to ledge, move to corner. Hard start to gain wall, then up to ledge. Up remaining wall to chains. Climbed as a single pitch but could be easily split into 2 or 3 pitches at ledges.

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

Obvious line on BH’s. Crux near top

An easy way to the top. Left of 'Broken Toe' up past a tree. Natural Pro and Belay.

Start 2m left of BROKEN TOE, directly under first BR. 3BR's plus natural. Natural after third BR. Nice moves well worth the effort. Tree Belay.

Follow crack to top. Tree belay.

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

First face past first cnr left of RAIN DANCE. Start near tree and use face only. Follow BR line to top. Very nice and sustained. 4 BR's with tree belay.

Arete to the right of 'WINK WINK'. Start below arete and move right then left. Go to left of overhang. Move up and traverse right to arete and mantle up. Move left onto face and head for tree at top

4 BR’s wires and cams. Start as for War Dance. Clip first FH then traverse right. Follow BR’s & finish as for War Dance. A little pumpy at top third

First climb as you walk into the crag. up overhang then follow the crack up. chain anchors

50m right of Smug Dolphin Prick up left side of the left side of the crack. tree belay.

2m right of Round up! up crag then trend left to top tree belay.

Fun first time trad lead great pro and flows really well. Up crack on the right hand side of the arete 20m right of Ready! Tree Belay.

Corner Crack right of Abbot Lover. Tree Belay

Was graded 19M0 with 2 rests on the first ascent. 1st pitch (40m): Rising traverse to right, over bulge and grooves in slab to tree. 2nd pitch (20m): Easy corner on right. 3rd pitch (10m): Short, bold pitch left of wedged flake and up to start of corner. 4th pitch (45m): Left arching corner crack.

On the right hand side of Mushroom Buttress, in the gully. 1st Pitch (22m): Left up the ramp, left around roof then boldly right onto slab, love hole to ledge. 2nd Pitch (15m): Left around roof, up through downward flared chimney to ledge. 3rd Pitch (30m): Straight up left facing flake and left up blocks to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

70m left and down from Lanky Dick and the Love Hole. Near the lowest point on the buttress. 1st pitch (15m): Wide crack to tree. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow line, mainly on face holds. 3rd pitch (15m): Stay in line to large ledge. Walk 40m left to below orange wall and roof. 4th pitch (38m): Up loose corners and grooves. 5th pitch (10m): Crux. Traverse right below orange wall and up steep chimney. 6th pitch (15m): Finish off the chimney and wander up choss to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

30m left of Sorry, below large, detached block. 1st pitch (20m): Up past 2 ledges to detached block. Delicately up right hand side of block and onto treed ledge. 2nd pitch (30m): Crux. Follow crackline leading diagonally left to short, steep, hanging corner. Up this to big ledge belay. Wlak 80m left around arete to small tree at end of ledge. 3rd pitch (30m): Crux. Up blocks, veering right to crack then traverse left to block, over this and up to ledge below rooves. 4th pitch (15m): Up under rooves, up and left to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

About one minute west of the campsite. Ist pitch: Up diagonal layback crack. 2nd pitch: Traverse left under roof and up to ledge. 3rd pitch: diagonal left up finger crack, through bulge and up loose blocks to top.

In a small alcove 60m right of Winger Nut. A short corner leads to a 2m roof. Through the roof and up bold corner to top.

up the obvious slab from ground level. Very poor pro. Might as well solo.

Starts on the right hand side of a steep wall. A granitic version of Arapilies bulges, seams and overhanging silliness. 1st pitch (45m): Up and diagonally right to layback corner. Up this to slabby groove and on to top.

Put up after two abseils to the river and 15 minutes of rain put the best climbs out of condition. Two obvious left leaning corners 45m high, starting at the river level at the upstream (southern) end of the gorge. The climb follows the easy corner system 40m to the left. 1st pitch (35m): Up the right veering slabs to corner, up and left to belay. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow slabs and grooves to large ledge. 3rd pitch (20m): Up the right edge of the slab to ledge. 4th pitch (15m): Easy choss to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

30m upstream (south) of 'Unlucky for Some', at the furthermost flat pocket, along the same slab system. 1st pitch (48m): Up tending right to dirty cracks, step left and up clean, unprotected slab to belay ledge. 2nd pitch (48m): Up through steep section, step right and belay at base of corner/dierdre. 3rd pitch (52m): Up on left hand side of diedre, follow line of pockets left, then straight up easier slab to ledge and poor belay. 4th/5th pitch: Easy traverse to left then down to abseil tree as for 'Unlucky for Some'. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.