Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
14 | A Bug's Life
Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what! FA: Grant LeLeve & Darrin Carter, 1999 | 20m, 1 | |||
10 | Positively Terminal
Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid." FA: Mark Churchill | 20m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown | |||||
21 | The James Scott Memorial Diet
Follow the system of corners up and step L on to slab, passing BR's to CB.(BR's, SLCD's, wires) Start: Apparently pretty damn hard. Climb arête L of large tree, which is in turn L of a large fallen tree and stump hole. FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Alistair Byrom | 40m | |||
19 | ★★ Sceptre
A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance. Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).
FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 95m, 2 | |||
17 | Foreign Accent Syndrome
Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's) Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole. FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison | 25m | |||
19 | Texas Chainsaw Massacre
Start: Directly up from broken stump.
Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008 FA: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderlieth (p1), Ross Ernst & Colin Carstens (p2) | 25m, 2, 18 | |||
18 | Slip-Sceptre linkup
Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle. Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip. | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Gearbox Gastro
Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB. (BR's, FH's & SLCD's) FA: Andrew Horchner | 25m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Slither
Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams. FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & R. Byrom | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ Unknown 2
FA: Probably Pete Schmidt, 1996 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | Treddle
Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements. FA: Ken Cox & Mark Plenderlieth | 30m | |||
15 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom | 65m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
FA: Peter Schmidt & James Fisher, 1996 | 20m, 2 | |||
17 | Unknown 4
First route up dirty wall past a few BR's. FA: Unknown, 1996 | 20m | |||
22 | Penile Warts
Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 22m | |||
20 | Imaginary Invalid
Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & M. Byrom | 45m | |||
18 | Flatulence
Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires) FA: M. Byrom & R. Byrom | 35m | |||
21 | Unknown 6
Reputedly good and hard. Great pinches through the overhang. Up the slab heading for the big white stripe on the steep wall up high passing 4 BR's to get there. Climb the steep stain past another BR, then keep going following the bolts. FA: Andrew Horchner | ||||
18 | ★★ Wasp
Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB. FA: Ken Cox, R. Byrom & Alistair Byrom | 45m | |||
22 | Flakes Away
Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 45m | |||
16 | Streak
10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay.. | 15m | |||
13 | Ugly Duckling
The black, L-trending wide crack up the slab ending at a tree belay. | 20m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius | |||||
23 | ★★ Blowing Smoke
The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2014 | 25m | |||
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall) | |||||
18 | ★★ Crazy Moon
Crazy Moon 240m 18
FA: Brad Carmady & Phil Box, 2007 | 240m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★★ Escension
A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it. Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers. There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.
Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet) FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2001 FA: Phil Box, Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon & Will Dameron, 2001 | 260m, 9 | |||
25 | Escension free description
FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002 | 330m, 9 | |||
19 | ★★ Cloud Catcher
Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.
FA: Phil Box, Brad Carmady & Josh Combes, 2006 | 250m | |||
22 | A Pod o Lips Now
Start is high on the vegetated slabs on the far right hand end of the Shield. Finding the start is the crux I am sure but if one were to head over to the descent gully then work back say 50 metres and then head somewhat up then that is an approximation of where to go.The start is also about 80 metres up the vegetated apron. there is an obvious chimney on the wall proper.
FFA: Phil Box & Colin Carstens., 2008 | 220m | |||
Northern Rivers Cape Byron Light house Cliff | |||||
12 | Brace Your Self
First solid grey gully from end of beach. Start at the back of the gully on good rock. Bridge up gully then trend left on loose but easy rock at the top. ( I avoided the tempting arette due to poor rock) Belay & ab off tree. FA: Eric Milton & Rob Bracher, 18 Mar 2023 | 25m | |||
14 | Violet Crumble
Start 6m right of B.Y.S. Pull up left into the flake crack system. Follow it up then trend right to sub pinnacle. Avoiding loose rock ( pull down not out ) . Decent by sea saw abseil, or down climb Die For Gear. FA: Eric Milton & Rob Bracher, 18 Mar 2023 | 16m | |||
10 | Die For Gear
15m on from B.Y.S Gully . Scramble up the corner then back and foot to the top. Finishes at top of Violet crumble. Down climb or ab. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
12 | Facial
The next 3 climbs are about 70m further on in " The Day Spa ". A compact black cliff with good natural features. Facial climbs the right leaning flake / crack system . Starting at the right end of a large boulder. Finishing in the corner of Massage. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
10 | Massage
Climb the good left leaning corner up the middle of the face. 6m left of Facial. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
12 | Day Spa
Start in the corner as Massage. Climb rightwards over the slab to a bulge with good undercling pockets. continue up and over to glory. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
Northern Rivers Rainbow Rock | |||||
19 | ★★ epic deception
dagerous climb. poorly protected. a bit run out between most bolts. Lots loose rock and busting holds. Almost no protection from 100m,(bolts stop with no warning at 100m,halfway up 3rd pitch. anchor of to right hard to find) climb obviously un-finished.Possible micro-cam placement about 10m-15m after bolts stop. Lots of loose rock, dirty. Had to anchor on to bolders, ran out of rope (50m). loose bolt plates on second pitch. Holds break most of the way up. 4 pitch climb. 1st-40m, 2nd-35m, 3rd-50m, 4th-25m. Only decent path through thick bush, down south side... FFA: john, 2000 | 150m, 4, 12 | |||
14 | invisible touch
small crack line on lower wall FFA: Za Utopia, 2012 | 8m | |||
Northern Rivers Boonoo Boonoo Falls | |||||
14 R | ★★ Belvedere Route
Climbs the left side of the falls. FA: Neill Lamb, Julie Henry & Frank Theos | 180m | |||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
18 | ★★ eagle fly
5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain FFA: Za Utopia, 2012 | 15m | |||
18 | just for fun
Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof. FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia & Phoenix, 2012 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ two believe
One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain. FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia., 2012 | 15m, 1 | |||
19 | moonlight drive
10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out. | 23m, 2 | |||
15 | Sacred Union
Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 16m | |||
13 | Break Away
2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top. FA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 2013 | 16m | |||
15 | Back in Black
Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013 | 15m | |||
13 | Eagle Jets
start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able. FA: 2013 FFA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 12m | |||
16 | outsiders
start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 12m | |||
14 | Jupiter Maxiumus
start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013 | 12m | |||
17 | Into the mystical
start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 14m | |||
20 | Dragon teeth
start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping... FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall | |||||
14 | Medicine Wheel
Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders. FFA: Za Utopia, Be Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016 | 9m | |||
15 | Rock People
2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings. FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016 | 9m | |||
16 | Othila
Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 28 Mar 2016 | 9m | |||
15 | Eagle Clan
Left of Othila. FA: Za/Be Utopia | 9m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone | |||||
17 | ★★ riding in bliss
6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 13 May 2016 | 12m | |||
17 | ★★ Uzi Packing Drug Lords
Up Wall on Trad Gear | 12m | |||
14 | ★ Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel
Up flack and through bulge | 12m | |||
15 | ★ Carnage At The Mouse Machine
climbs the right leaning orange crack | 12m | |||
13 | When Twighlight Turns To Dark
the corner crack on left of wall FA: J. Gracie & T. Hill, 1996 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ 35 Degrees
Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors. | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant
Up Crack and wall on trad gear. FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1998 | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog | |||||
21 | ★★ Moon Shadow
Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 20m, 5 | |||
19 | Adder
5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 20m | |||
23 | Sting
1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 15m, 3 | |||
18 | Monkey Boots
The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 19m, 5 | |||
16 | Stoned
The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land | |||||
14 | ★★ Cruisy Susi
Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay. FA: Mike Klingensmith & Brian Cork, Jul 2016 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room | |||||
19 | ★ Spanking Monkeys
Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear. FA: J. Langston, 1997 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Thin Red Line
4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000 | 12m, 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove | |||||
24 | ★★ Kanoon
The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors. FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997 | 12m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Narcissus Roof | |||||
21 | ★★ Narcissus Raining Down
It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off FA: Ben Christian, 1996 | 10m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall | |||||
15 | Corky's Crack
Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip. FA: Brian Cork, 1997 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Stealth Mode
About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy. FA: Brian Cork & Toby Holmes, 2012 | 15m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Ally Cat and the Puppet Show
Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree. FA: Brian Cork, 2011 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | |||||
17 | Eeor's Tail
1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM FA: Martin Cloonan & Tristan Ricketts, 2001 | 12m, 1 | |||
14 | Paint Spot
3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up. FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998 | 14m | |||
14 | Brush Strokes
1m right of PS FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998 | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode | |||||
★★★ Proj
Project on the left side of the ML. This route involves a series of roofs with steep walls in between. Going to take some serious work to unlock its sequences | |||||
12 | Shadow
The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB. FA: Toby Holmes, 2009 | 12m | |||
16 | Rabid
Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay FA: David Wagland, 2009 | 12m | |||
17 | Hair of the Dog
20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay. FA: Toby Holmes, 2009 | 20m | |||
17 | Hairy Dog
Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start. FA: Toby Holmes, 2009 | 20m | |||
21 | Sickle
A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires. FA: Rhys Van Gastel & Toby Holmes, 2009 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall | |||||
16 | ★ Release The Hounds
The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA FFA: Brian Cork, 2011 | 12m | |||
25 | ★★★ Synchronicity
Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip. FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011 | 12m | |||
17 | ★★ Conjunctivitis
All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Deliverance Area | |||||
18 | Super Grovel
1
16
2
18
3
16
Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.
FA: Brian Cork & Daniel Hazell, 21 May 2016 | 35m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Sanction of the Victim
Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains FA: Marc Bailey lead Jen Marshall 2nd, 2011 | 32m, 4 | |||
Concerto of Deliverence
start near beehive. still a project | 32m | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House | |||||
10 | Corner Crack
Corner Crack on Right side of wall. no anchors except you can traverse left to anchor on project | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | |||||
18 | ★ Pivot
Mixed route of zigzagging cracks with anchors | 17m | |||
15 | ★ Under-toe
Up the short corner past wire to tree, then easily up wide corner crack to anchors of Rubber Toe. Readily TR from these anchors if you don’t have big gear. | 18m | |||
17 | ★★ Rat Attack LHV
Climb Rat Attack and step left under roof | ||||
16 | ★★ Rat Attack
Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors. | 17m | |||
17 | ★★ Treerider
Climb Chimney as for Rat attack then traverse right on underclings to gain crack and flake. Up past a couple of bolts to anchors on the right of the tree. | 18m | |||
Project
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19 | ★★★ The Wrong Lime
The fantastic looking crack system seen overhead to the right during approach to the crag, starting in gully off to the right. Scramble down from main crag or alternate approach from main access trail by heading right along base cliff before the fixed roped section. Mantle daintily onto first ledge, place first good gear at back of rooflette then pull bouldery move up and into main crack system. Great protection the whole way. FA: rob, 20 Apr 2023 | 20m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Hide and Seek Wall | |||||
Joes Climb (Project)
above chain belay on ledge. This climb is more to the left on wall it is very obvious crack . Finish at ledge at chains. | |||||
19 | Tinker Bells Big Brother
Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains. FFA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012 FA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012 | 20m, 2 | |||
Sneak it In (Project)
Start as per Tinker Bells BB but only traverse left for a few metres and then follow rings straight up. Project Marc Bailey | 17m | ||||
18 | Lets Zouk
Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains FFA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012 FA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012 | 15m, 1 |