Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V14 | |||||
Jessicca's | |||||
V14 | A1
Lower right start to J1. FA: Chris Webb Parsons | ||||
V13 | |||||
Jessicca's | |||||
V13 | ★★ J1
An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit. FA: Saxon Johns | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V13 | Substance of Everything | ||||
V12 | |||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Whipper Real Estate | |||||
V12 | ★★ Whipper's Aquarium
Shared start with Obsession. Keep traversing left on some small edges until you reach the flake, joining the crux of Moments Of The Past. FA: Liam Healy | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Games Room | |||||
V12 | ★★★ Man In Bread
Start matched on the 2 crimpy underclings, traverse right and do a big dynamic move to a good edge on the break. Finish matched on the big horn just behind the ledge. FA: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Golden Frog | |||||
V12 | ★★ Red Crowned Ronin
Sit start on the jug under the rooflet and follow the arete all the way to the top of the block. Might need a brush as it's getting mossy again. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Biame Bloc | |||||
V12 | ★★★ Loki
Sit start on the scoop and move left using some crimps to gain the big rail before doing a huge span out left to join Odin's Raven. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
Jessicca's | |||||
V12 | ★★★ J2
A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing. FA: Saxon Johns | ||||
The Fear Factory The Whiteboard | |||||
V12 | Blackboard
Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent. FA: Sharik Walker | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Lip | |||||
V12 | ★★★ Grubby Paw Directors Edition
Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one. FA: Chris, 7 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
V12 | ★★★ Grubby Paw Direct
Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin. Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis FA: Damien Alexander, 14 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V12 | Daoism
Stand start in the break. Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab. Given V10 by James. FA: James Scarborough, 2003 | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline The Corridor Boulders | |||||
V12 | ★★ The Corridor
Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face. Left of The Pincer Movement, follow chalked cobwebbed crack. FA: Sharik Walker | ||||
V11/12 | |||||
Dural Big Wall Environs | |||||
V11/12 | ★★ Big Spoon
Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12) | ||||
V11 | |||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Bird Bath | |||||
V11 | ★★ Birds of Paradise
| ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Whipper Real Estate | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Moments Of The Past
Sit start on the good edges in the far back of the overhang, head diagonally left to reach the side pull flake and slap your way to the top. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
V11 | ★★ I Am Better Than My Fear
Shared start with Obsession but go directly up instead, exiting between the two horns on the slab. FA: Liam Healy | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Double Domino Area | |||||
V11 | ★★★ The Iron Lung
A classic on some of the most perfect pockets you can imagine. Stand start in the big jug under the roof and do some big moves to a committing topout. FA: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Starcourt Mall | |||||
V11 | Abaddon's Gate
A one move wonder. Stand start on the reinforced crimps, trust the terrible feet and do a big slap to the lip. | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Biame Bloc | |||||
V11 | ★ Ymir The Fallen
Stand start with LH on the big jug ledge out left and RH on the good edge in the roof. Follow the crack / sloper ledge to top out right. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Water Bloc of Fine Aromas | |||||
V11 | ★ Rusty Nail
Start on the left side of the big break, do a few long moves to top out over the bulge. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
Marsfield | |||||
V11 | ★★ Banana Split
Left variant to Prometheus. Start with the undercling and the crack, head straight up. FA: Sam Healy, 27 Jun 2020 | 5m | |||
Jessicca's | |||||
V11 | Liquid Dreams
Start as for Ladder II and when you get to the jugs, head left following the rock contours and some tiny crimps to a very slopey top. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2010 | ||||
The Fear Factory The Courtyard | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Where The Wild Things Are
Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable. FA: Neil Wallace, 2015 | 7m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches The Caves | |||||
V11 | Witchcraft
Stand start to Arcane Power. Same start as Witchcraft finishing up the Arcane Power Variant exit. Requires real magic. FA: Peter Jeavons, 31 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V11 | Arcane Power
Mr Winston variant. from the lowest part of the head wall head up on tiny crimps. Top is currently overgrown FA: Aaron Liu, 2002 | 4m | |||
V11 | Inspector Gadget
Stand start to Mr Winston. Both hands start on the block, then throw a high left foot behind you onto the scoop, and engage in flexible trickery to get your right foot off the ground. The ledge out right is off as for all problems. Finish up the Y2K exit. FA: Peter Jeavons, 11 Aug 2018 | 7m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches The Mess Kitchen | |||||
V11 | ★★ Get On Top
Start as for Porn Star and traverse into and finish up Bianca's Boobies. FA: Alan Pryce | 4m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Battle of the Bulge
Start directly under the prow on pockets then straight up for a desperate top out. FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000 | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Lip | |||||
V11 | The Smiling Assassin
Start as for Grubby Paw but climb direct through to hueco without using the lip then finish with The Black Pearl. Maybe V12. FA: Damien Alexander, 19 May 2015 | 3m | |||
V11 | ★★ One Grubby Little Paw In The Honey Pot
Hard slapping and compression moves with crazy toe hooking. From the hard low start of tablets rehearsed ride the lip to link into blue and green and red all over. FA: Dan DaSilva, 2011 | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Area Q | |||||
V11 | ★★★ L'homme Obu
'Rocket Man' sit start. Start up If The Shoe Fits and finish up Rocket Man. FA: Fred Nicole | ||||
V11 | ★★★ L'homme Obu Left | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Frontline Right Hand Side | |||||
V11 | ★ The Vineyard
Levitate off the underclings to the jug. No crash-pad cheating now! Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline Front and Centre | |||||
V11 | ★★ Dumbo The Flying Elephant
Dyno from the start of Diplomatic Immunity to the top of I Am Twelve. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2011 | ||||
V11 | They call me Brock Landers
Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into El Kooko. FA: Fab, 9 Aug 2014 | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V11 | Energy Into Love
Link up. 'Pockets of Resistance' into 'American Siege'. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 29 Jun 2014 | ||||
V11 | Siege From Down Under
FA: Tom Farrell, 2007 | ||||
V11 R | |||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Games Room | |||||
V11 R | ★★★ Friend
Stand on top of the big fallen boulder to reach the starting holds. Follow the beautiful features to a committing topout. Another Pat Reynolds highball testpiece that has not seen a repeat yet!!! FA: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
V10/11 | |||||
Jessicca's | |||||
V10/11 | Motivation For The Meaningless
Start as per Big Mitch then a bit left and up to little dish and a crimp then to the top break. Top out or don't top out. You do you FA https://www.instagram.com/p/B0c2HO2jWPn/ FA: Sage G, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V10 | |||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Heidi Place The Frontier | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Old Fashioned
A must do classic if you like board style boulders. Stand start matched on the jug rail, do a big move to a slopy edge and then another big move out left to the lip. FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 1 Dec 2023 | 3m | |||
Bidjigal Reserve - Heidi Place Limitless Cave | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Limitless
Stand start on the crimp rail at the very far back of the cave, do some powerful moves to gain the lip and exit directly up on the flakes at the highest point of the boulder. Lower ledge/back wall is obviously out. FA: Maurício Chino | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Bird Bath | |||||
V10 | ★ The Devil's Mouthpiece
| 2m | |||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Whipper Real Estate | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Whipper's Waterhole
Sit start matched on the jug in the back of the overhang and climb directly out to a cruxy last move before the mantle. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Double Domino Area | |||||
V10 | ★ The World On Its Side
Start on the low slopers at the bottom of the arete and keep powering your way up it. | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Starcourt Mall | |||||
V10 | ★★ The Cottees Kid
Sit start with LH on the low crimp and RH on the sloper. Liam Healy - Original Beta Mauricio Chino - Alternative Beta FA: Sam Healy | 2m | |||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Biame Bloc | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Odin's Raven
Stand start on the break / side pull and follow the flaky feature leading to a scary topout. Bad landing, bring pads and a spotter. | ||||
Marsfield | |||||
V10 | ★★ Starblazing
Sit start to Stargazing. Start matched on the obvious block and go up. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Aug 2020 | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Total Recall
Start up Deep Impact, heading onto the face via pocket. Top out up and right. FA: Connor Lucas, 30 May 2020 | 5m | |||
The Hive Diffraction Block | |||||
V10 | Deflection
Start with your left hand in the pocket and your right hand on any of the Diffraction start holds. Move up and head left to join the arete before topping out. Sit start FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Aug 2020 | ||||
The Hive Little Ideas Wall | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Tequila Mockingbird
Lip traverse and under the roof to finish up higher on a jug. Thin and powerful! FA: John Bignold, 17 Jan 2017 | 3m | |||
Jessicca's | |||||
V10 | Big Mitch
Start at the low jug, dyno from the break to the top of the bulge and top-out a little to the right of the boulder. Could be V11. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 14 Aug 2015 | ||||
Dural Big Wall Environs | |||||
V10 | ★★ Starship Captain
Same start as 'Big Spoon', but head right out of the cave and up through the pockets. Ending on a small crimp rail above. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 14 Sep 2021 | ||||
The Fear Factory The Whiteboard | |||||
V10 | ★★ The Whiteboard Affair
From the very thin orange break, make a tricky and technical jump start, then take on the powerful and slopey top. V8 from Pete, V10 from Sharik Walker... FA: Pete Balint | 3m | |||
V10 | Nails on the Board
FA: Sharik Walker | 4m | |||
The Fear Factory The Courtyard | |||||
V10 | Project Runway
Wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump off of rubbish crimps. Connor Lucas FA: Tom Farrell, 2017 | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches The Caves | |||||
V10 | Siotaro Wish Flower
Starting on the right end of the rail, a large move to a pocket and gymnastic moves join the start of Y2k Cont, moving back to finish up Mr Winston. Starting on the left-most part of the rail with feet out left gives Cave Cats at the same grade via a morpho shouldery lockoff. FA: Patrick Reynolds, 7 May 2019 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Arcane Power Variant
The more common exit of Arcane Power before the truth was rediscovered. Finish up through the big pocket. | 4m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Mr Winston
Sit start on the tufa feature, powerful moves through roof finishing up the series of blunt pinches and edges in the centre of the headwall. Resist climbing out to better holds on the left. Named after James' cat. FA: James Scarborough, 2002 | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Lip | |||||
V10 | ★★ All The Tablets Are Rehearsed
Adds a low start to "All the tables are reversed in my private universe". Start at the very back of the cave and make a big move to the start jug of "tables" and finish as per the v10. FA: Patrick John Reynolds, 2011 | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Area Q | |||||
V10 | ★★ Benchmark
Start as of 'Killer Arms' (v8) and finish up as for 'Pneuma' (v9). FA: John Bignold, 30 May 2020 | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Rocket Man
'L'Homme Obu' standing start from the big break on If The Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up Rocket Pants. FA: Fred Nicole | 3m | |||
V10 | ★★ Rocket Man Left
As for Rocket Man but right hand big move and top out left. | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Front and Centre | |||||
V10 | ★★ The War Gherkin
Start up Diplomatic Immunity and traverse right through slopey break to finish up The Invisible Gerka, some where between hard V8 and V9/10 FA: Patrick Reynolds, 2017 | ||||
V10 | Chest Rockwell
Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into Boogie Knights original finish. Knock a grade off for the variant finish. | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V10 | ★★ Hurtsagovernor
Start as for Paratroopin and keep traversing right into 'Pockets of the highlander'. FA: Hugo Hornshaw, 2 Aug 2020 | ||||
V10 | Phone Lock
Sit start into Paratroopin. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007 | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline Frontline Left Hand Side | |||||
V10 | ★★ C.O.A.T
Sit start on slopey crimp. Move straight up via sharp LH crimp to top on slopers. FA: Matt Wrigley | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline The Far Side | |||||
V10 | Ultimate Surrender
A real wrestle. Starting on the obvious jug at the end of the rail, reverse Hollow mountain dreaming and finish up '7th Day Ascentist'. FA: sam | 4m | |||
V10 R | |||||
The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V10 R | ★★★ American Siege | ||||
V10 R | Woolly Jumper | ||||
V9/10 | |||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Penthouse | |||||
V9/10 | ★★ Moving Lines
Shared start with Booby Prize, but go straight out of the roof to a wild cut loose dyno at the end. FA: Liam Brown | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Renaissance Wall & The Amber Room | |||||
V9/10 | ★★★ Vitruvian Man Sit
Sit start under the jugs under roof and do a big move to join the stand start. FA: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
The Balkans The Trenches The Caves | |||||
V9/10 | Premium Matsu
Climb Siotaro Wish Flower into Arcane Power. FA: Patrick Reynolds, 13 May 2019 | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V9/10 | Woolly Crimper
'Woolly Jumper' via the sharp crimp statically. | ||||
V9 | |||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Bird Bath | |||||
V9 | ★ Sparrow and Wren Become Friends Low
| ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Whipper Real Estate | |||||
V9 | ★★★ A Husky's Hurdle
Probably the best hard slab in Sydney. Tricky start leads to a dynamic low percentage crux. Jug your way to glory. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
V9 | ★ Three Bodies
Starts right of Whipper's Hideout matched on the undercling. Do a big move to the crimpy edge and move left to join Whipper's Hideout top out. FA: Michael Tonon | ||||
Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Games Room | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Song Lines
A big contender for one of the best traverses in Sydney. Sit start on the obvious flake and follow the perfect line of slopers at chest height until they disappear. From here, do a big move to the upper ledge and keep traversing right for a few more meters. Top out on the big scoop just before the massive tree. FA: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
Terry's Creek | |||||
V9 | ★★ Release The Dragon
Crouch start on obvious ledge, push your way into the undercling (some parts of this could be brittle) and make a long move out to the lip. Tech your way out of the cave and mantle to glory. FA: Lachlan Turnbull FA: Lachlan Turnbull, 28 May 2020 | ||||
The Hive Diffraction Block | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Sunshine
Start matched on slopey flat edge. Move up the middle of the face using good side-pull crimps and sneaky heel/toe hooks. Top out FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 9 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
Jessicca's | |||||
V9 | ★★ Midwife Crisis Direct
Same start as 'Midwife Crisis' but instead of using the jug, use a sloper/pinch directly overhead for LH and keep moving up using a series of crimps. | 3m | |||
V9 | Burgeoning baby
Climb "Midwife Crisis Direct", then climb the lip back right around the corner to top out as for J2. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2013 | 3m | |||
Dural Big Wall Environs | |||||
V9 | ★ Little Spoon
Start in the middle of the obvious break, then powerful span move into a thin pocket, then crimp your way to the first ledge FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 7 Sep 2021 | ||||
Funky Town Mana | |||||
V9 | ★★ Mana
Start on block under roof. Move out and up on slopers to top out high. FA: Herbert Volk | 5m | |||
Funky Town Centre Wall | |||||
V9 | ★★ Dope On A Slope
Utter desperate mantle/top out. FA: Neil Wallace | 3m | |||
Funky Town Lower Wall | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Spätlese
up the lower wall on the far right of the crag. Some small underclings leading to a slopey finish, highish. Pete Balint thought it should be called Frutilexia FA: Herb, 2005 | ||||
The Fear Factory The Asteroid Belt | |||||
V9 | ★★ The Tender Trap
Thin, technical and powerful and then a totally desperate crux. | 5m | |||
The Balkans Pony Cave | |||||
V9 | The Bengal Chandelier
Starts on ledge below the main cave. Climbs up and left to arete. Bad landing | 6m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches In The Trenches | |||||
V9 | ★★★ arete project
FA: neil / matt kelly ? & neil / matt kelly ? | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Mustard Cave | |||||
V9 | ★ Small Stuff
Sit start under cave and compress up lip and holds in roof into Little Things FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2018 | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ Little Things
FA: Alan Crouch, 2017 | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Lip | |||||
V9 | ★★★ All The Tables Are Reversed In My Private Universe
Classic Compression Problem with a tough top out. Start at the obvious jug at the left end of the cave. Using what ever holds needed (they are obvious) to gain the lip and then mantle up and over. FA: Patrick John Reynolds, 2011 | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Area Q | |||||
V9 | El Señor de los Cielos
Start as for Business as Usual, head left through the starting jug of Rocket Man to top out as for Arms Race | ||||
V9 | If The Thong Fits
Variant of 'If The Shoe Fits' eliminating the low, sloping overlap where you'd put your right hand. Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | ||||
V9 | ★★ Low Rider
Sit start for super reach/dyno around bulge and finish up If The Glove Fits. Start: Sit FA: James Alexander | 5m | |||
V9 | ★★ Pneuma
Climb up 'Arms Race' till the break before big move right to small crimp. Cross to finger jug to finish as for 'L'Homme Obu Left'. FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 26 Feb 2020 | 6m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Front and Centre | |||||
V9 | Captain Courageous Right
Start as for Chest Rockwell & finish with Captain Courageous Left. FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015 | ||||
V9 | Captain Courageous Left
Start 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' and climb to jugs just left of tree, up to crimps & dead point to slopey rail to finish out left. Probably a grade easier if you move a bit left into undercling & climb as for Shell Shocked. FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Low Down Boogie (Original)
'Boogie Knights' starting as for El Kooko, topping as per Ascension Day. | 5m |