Very nice route with very thin crux. I thought it was harder than 19 as the edges of the crimps had been broken off and it was awfully thin with poor feet.
Mega climb with lots of thin technical sequences. Was climbing well until below the top crux. Could rest and recover very well but then failed to find any workable sequence. Even after pulling on draw and working the sequence on top rope I couldn’t unlock any beta that goes at 23. I could vaguely see how it can be done but it’d be a 25 move for me.
I can see why it’s classic, but it was without a doubt one of the least enjoyable climbs I’ve ever tried. Conditions on the slab were pretty disgusting, the rest of the route just wasn’t fun.
Pumped out by the time I got a sequence (needed it) for the start - even exploiting every advantage of the boulders (but skipping them ups the grade to something still very doable). Afterwards no great rests but good holds.
Made it hard for myself by sticking to the face rather than using the arrete which caused a silly unexpected fall. Great climbing. 10/10 would attempt the climb again.
What is this head fuckery of a route and how tall or big of an arm span do you have to have to do this thing. I had to pull through on draws multiple times on this thing
Put the draws up but was too busy f**king around with other peoples topropes to give it another go... bummer.
This deserves atleast 2 stars. Short but best rock on the crag. Crux bolt looks to be about 30 years old, badly rusted with a homemade hanger but the retrobolt ring below will keep you off ground if it explodes.
