Routes in South East

Not yet named project. Sit start on the low rail. FA can name it.

An excellent outing. The last pitch is the stand out pitch. Start in the next clearing ~20 metres up the hill from LGTL. Two anchors at top of P1 - one straight up and another 3m lower to the right. If climbing P2 belaying from top-most is preferable.

1. 40m (14)

2. 15m (17)

Stand Start with high LH and foot on rail.

Up the left side of the arete.

Slightly overhanging with some big moves to a slab finish.

Mega hard line up some seriously steep and blank looking territory.

First section (5 bolts) was bolted by Adam Donoghue back in the day. The next section (5 bolts) have since been placed with the possibility of it extending even further. This thing will be hard! Potentially in the grade range of 34 - 36!

30m further up the access track from Elevazione, on the other side of the road. Sit start with RH on arete, LH on sidepull flake under the bulge

Start as for 'Mission Impossible'.

Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'.

Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat.

Follow the line of most resistance on the mini arete.

Up next arete with 1 BR to protect crux moves near top.

Stay hungry. Tweener between Toils and You Only Hide. Shares a couple of holds but climbs virtually independent. Tricksy and sustained.

SS. Pull up, slap to large sidepull then throw for bulbous sloper and mantle. For 4 Vermin points instead, crank directly straight up to the bulb.

sloping crimps with poor feet.

Sit start then up the three pockets to top out.

6d in guide

This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete.

3b in guide

3e in guide. Face just right of the crack through the knob up high

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings 7-9 are for top anchor.

Start as for FO but trend diagonally left on juggy holds to finish on CP.

Sit start. Follow pockmarks straight up the face and top out.

Cheese grater slopers, needs a good clean to get rid of loose rock from the overhanging face to provide a stable foothold.

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

Smaller overhang below the witness boulder. Start low on crimps, blast up and left to a vicious mantle.

Start on mega jug sidepull right of Smouldering Jawas, traverse across the start of Jawas following the line of crimps along seem, finish for The mighty Sarlak.

"A debatable classic"

Stand start at obvious flake, up on bad feet.

Stand start down the gully with crimps in the horizontal flake feature. Traverse left joining into “Capital of Cool”.

Ramble up the vertical wall with some great warm up moves into the left side of the overhang up high, pull hard onto the face and enjoy the pump!

Start left side of lip and mantle where you start “lips like…?”

Start low on the obvious shelf. Left hand to a rough pocket and continue up and slightly left.

Sit start on the jug left of the arete. throw to two finger pocket, lock off, and grab the crimp rail. traverse the rail left with little feet and finish standing on the ledge.

2 motorcycle sized blocks came off this problem. Need a regrade and reconfigure.

Start sitting with two hand match on undercling horn to the right. Work your way up and traverse left over lip and straight up to mantle finish. A nice line.

Right line up small cliff band

Sit start at the base of “snake hole”. Left hand on under cling which is entrance to “snake hole”. Right hand on sloper block. Bump right to shared start with “sand in my eyes” and then head up. Finish over mega horn block and top out. Toe and heel hooks are important for this one.

Excellent climbing on an outstanding mixed route nestled amongst the trees. Start on trad following the obvious splitter but beware of the 4m section of crumbly choss, don't rely on gear placements here. Climb gingerly through the choss then the splitter gets solid again offering great hand jams till the crack ends at the ledge. From the ledge finish the route as sport (3 bolts + chain anchor) continuing up the left rounded arete on thin holds with crux finish. The crack goes at around 17-18 and the arete finish goes at 22.

Sit start in the crack and head straight up.

Load up the crack, punch out roof and mantle into blankness joining into Pitcairn. Bold.

A mix of slab, cave, vert and crimp. The only Rona Wall route to have it’s own first bolt, up and right from the belay station. Shares the anchors with ‘Maggie’s on the Bogroll’.

Starts at the obvious short open crack that curves left. Continue up to the short slabby section and then up the main vertical face to the small chimney finish at the anchor. Nice variety of climbing styles throughout the route. High first bolt, recommend stick clip.

Marked 'A'. The enjoyable scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall. Follows the exposed crest trending right across the tops of the other climbs for an exposed finish to the summit of Ngungun.

Start up cheeze for the geeze or slightly to the right, take care on the spicy second clip.

Nice sport climb up some awesome overlaps.

Start: 3m right of 'Superman' and Cereal

Nice moves on jugs up into corner. Scramble up fern grotto to finish up 'Marge' from the 4th hanger.

Start: Start 1m left of Itchy & Scratchy

Very nice movement up and out of the scoops. Start matched on the left of the first scoop.

Head up the low angle crack exiting left under the stone of triumph

Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem.

Start: As for SIP, up the arete, placing gear up to the carrot, downclimb to below the roughness, then out Right on nothing, to single BR on face, diagonally out to another BR, continue diagonally across face to a 4th BR, then up to shared DBB. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4, is reportedly chopped.)

Standing start.

Sit start with LH in undercling and RH on the small crimp high in the black streak. Shorties may need to stack pads. Make your way to the top.

Starts 10 metres right of JG in corner. Start easily on rings trending right. Clip 6th bolt with a long sling and move out left to the arete. Climb arete to anchor at top of the wall.

Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

Sit start Slip, Slop, Slap then move right following the obvious line topping out on Salt in the wound.

Start in the little cave in front of the tree. Boulder up to stance below technical face, grapple and crank your way up before a punchy throw gets you to a welcome rest at ⅔ height. Spicy boulder to finish at the top of the wall.

Linkup. Adds a bunch of climbing to Yesterday's Hero by starting up Darklight for four bolts, then traversing right across the slab to join YH.

Linkup. Climb 'Kidney Cave' to the third bolt, then move left to finish up the last two bolts of 'Future History'. A good way to avoid the crux of KC.

Jug up to the ledge and holds below undercling and mantle out using hold to left.

Sidepull up to hold and slopers

A traverse spanning the entire Andromeda main wall, as well as Legends Wall. Starts and ends on the ground, so it can be climbed from right to left, or left to right. Can be done in a single pitch with an 80m rope if you manage the clips well (so as to avoid unnecessary wandering of the rope, and rope drag). Alternatively, it can be split into two pitches (e.g. belay at Worm Hole’s anchors). As it is a traverse, take special care whether leading or seconding, as a fall could result in a body scraping pendulum. The climb uses 26 bolts from various climbs. Some clips should be extended with slings. To avoid the wrath of other climbing parties, reserve this climb for a quiet weekday with no one else at the crag.

The first ascent was climbed right to left, starting at Absolute Zero, as follows:

1st bolt of Absolute Zero – extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Graviton 3rd bolt of Mars – extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of Horse Head Nebula 4th bolt of Alien Encounter Anchor bolt of Asteroid Belt - extended with a 120cm sling Anchor bolt of Solar Eclipse 4th bolt of Gravitational Equilibrium 4th bolt of Interstellar Journey - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Southern Cross - extended with a 120cm sling 5th bolt of Worm Hole - extended with a 60cm sling (Can belay off anchors if climbing in two pitches) 2nd bolt of Coal Sack 4th bolt of More Dark Matter - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Lunar Eclipse 4th bolt of Event Horizon Anchor bolt of Star Dust - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Nebula Anchor bolt of Orbital Tether - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Black Hole - extended with a 120cm sling 4th bolt of Dugglebutt And The Bus Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of TJ Rothschild - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Mr. Rowland And The 100 weeks Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of The Spitz Roy Massif 3rd bolt of Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend - extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Old Gramps Reeve And His Bodacious Babe 1st bolt of Do Not Shit In The Woods At High Traffic Crags, then back to the ground.

Up the right side of the slab. Also the downclimb.

Start at main horizontal crack, extend to good hold. Traverse left for commiting throw to final hold. Grade 4 ** as per original guide.

Good underclings but not much for feet, somehow pull on and then throw to a decent jug and then easy after that.

Sit start on the underclings. Long powerfull move to crimps then straight up (crossing Cookie Time).

Start on the good left hold and traverse right and then up.

Direct start to Full Metal Traverse (start at the true north boulder problem and head left to finish at full metal's anchor. So bouldery and sustained.

Both hands on lip above head high. Feet on obvious knee height shelf. Gain the top using two quality edges on top.

Up crack.

Stand start, straight up. Feet are small but there.

Line of U bolts above Tinka Extension.

Sit start centre of the boulder, RH on the best crimp on the face, LH opposing it on your choice of sidepull. Semi detached block for feet. Claw your way up the crimps to a desperate slimper move guarding a generous topout jug.

Stand start up the big pockets and scoops on the arete

1 star - Sit start in the middle of the main boulder using chock stones to pull on. Throw left and traverse using small crimps for hand and massive ledge for feet to finish up '3a'