Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 | Fat Molly
FA: Alex Wilson & Gerry Narkowicz, 2001 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
15 | Lazy Boy
FA: Alex Wilson & Gerry Narkowicz, 2001 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
20 | Blubberguts
FA: Gerry Narkowicz, Alex Wilson & Alex Wilson, 2001 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
14 | Forever and Ever
FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2001 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
17 | My Side of the Mountain
FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1982 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
13 | Rewi's Claim to Fame
FA: Mark Rewi & Bob McMahon, 2000 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
21 | ★★ Stoater
FA: Mark Rewi & Bob McMahon, 2000 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
★ Hurt Phase link
Start for Hurts and at the obvious big block traverse int In Phase and finish up that route | Arapiles | ||||
22 | ★★ Cockatoo Kung-fu
Much like the local wildlife, this one’s a screamer (and an excellent reason to visit). Start calmly up obvious diagonal on east face of buttress. Become daunted by steepness, enjoy a few absolute sinkers then make some noise for the pointy beak of the crack. Claw straight up crimps with less gear (large nut and small cams) and raise your crest triumphantly into easier and mossier ground. Bomber gear for crux, take care of slab below. Tree anchor. FA: Kalang Kedumba Jones, 12 Nov 2022 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | The Flake
The big left leaning, right facing flake. Takes bomber gear. Mostly super easy, just a little tricky getting over true rooflet up high | 15m | Point Perpendicular | ||
22 | ★★ Tusky Times
| 20m | Peaceful Bay | ||
21 | ★ Sea Monkey
| 20m | Peaceful Bay | ||
17 | Sun, Sweat and Sealions
17? can't remember grade 3bolts and gear | 20m, 3 | Peaceful Bay | ||
19 | ★★ Dancing with a Dugong
| 20m | Peaceful Bay | ||
15 | ★ Crab's Whiskers
| 18m | Peaceful Bay | ||
20 | ★ King Penguin
| 20m | Peaceful Bay | ||
15 | ★ Sir Henry the Seagull
| 20m | Peaceful Bay | ||
19 | Sea Possum
| 20m, 1 | Peaceful Bay | ||
18 | Cranky Crab
| 20m, 2 | Peaceful Bay | ||
25 | ★★ Squeeler
Start at a black 1m x 1m blob in the middle of the grey wall. Up past the black blob, then follow shallow cracks in the thin corner to a jug under the rooflet at half height and bomber gear. Crux is getting over the rooflet . Great moves and good holds to the top. Gear up the thin, shallow corner is flaring and not brilliant. Trad anchor. Grade 25 placing gear on lead. A fine WA south coast granite trad route. FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 2022 | 15m | Peaceful Bay | ||
16 | ★ Hedging Your Bets
Climb the arete. Steeper and pumpier than it looks and solid at the grade Trad anchor. FA: Peter Thomas, Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 2022 | 12m | Peaceful Bay | ||
20/21 | Portside with ropes
Climb the middle of the face to the right of HYB past an ancient rust-mark that used to be a bolt. Bold climbing off the ground. Trad anchor. FA: Peter Thomas, Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 2022 | 12m | Peaceful Bay | ||
19 | ★ Close to the Hedg
Start with good climbing on good holds under the little roof. Exit out left from under the roof then back right to establish yourself on the golden nose. Climb an exposed and bold crux. A very small wire is needed to protect the moves after the crux. Thought provoking exit moves lead to a ledge and trad anchor. Make sure you are confident at the grade. FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 2021 | 15m | Peaceful Bay | ||
15 | ★★ Colorado Cruise
Follow the corner up through a tricky exit move onto a sloping ledge. One more tricky move leads to the belay ledge, or continue 2 more meters to the top. Good gear all the way. Trad anchor. FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 2021 | 15m | Peaceful Bay | ||
19 | Sea Pig
Start at the black dyke and climb straight up until the holds disappear. Step right to the left trending crack on Lily Pilly for one move until you can move back left and follow the left line to the top. FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhill, 2021 | 15m | Peaceful Bay | ||
17 | ★★ Lilly Pilly
Starts 2m just right of Sea Pig. Follow face holds and cracks straight up through a steepening corner. Good gear all the way. Takes the upper line right of Sea Pig. Trad anchor. FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhill, 2021 | 15m | Peaceful Bay | ||
19 | Meet Me By The Pylons
Finger crack and hand crack lead to a block and an offwidth FA: Neale Smith, Gerry Narkowicz & Bob McMahon, 1983 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
18 | Stagecoach
Far right of upper tier. Bridging between face and pillar and a thin hand crack above the pillar FA: Bob McMahon, Neale Smith & Lisa Johnson, 1984 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
17 | Love Story
Down and right of the upper tier is a broken line of cliff. The main line up the broken face FA: Neale Smith, Bob McMahon & Lisa Johnson, 1984 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
18 | The Prow
Up arete through low roof to join the top of Heckle FA: Bob McMahon, 1973 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
23 | ★★ Green Destroyer
FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Bob McMahon, 1982 | 9m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
18 | The One That Wasn't
Steep crack with face holds that make the climbing pleasant FA: Norm Selby & Bob Mcmahon, 1997 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
19 | Manitou
Hard start to steeping crack FA: Bob McMahon & Norm Selby | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
16 | Tom's Line
On the up-river face, an offwidth groove to chimney FA: Thomas Mohler, Alasdair Handley & Andrew Ogbourne, 1982 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
19 | Sackville Street
Rough finger crack with a little roof FA: Bob McMahon & Gerry Narkowicz, 1982 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
19 | Plumbers Crack
Climbs lest side of face to a big ledge and up sharp corner. FA: Thomas Young, 2022 | 12m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
18 | Flushed
Offwidth corner on the leftside of the buttress with some loose chockstones FA: Norm Selby, John Fisher & Bob McMahon, 1997 | 8m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
18 | All Day Sucker
Beautiful looking offwidth. FA: Bob McMahon, 1982 | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
18 | Gorble
Hand crack left of chimney groove FA: Bob McMahon, Paul Brown & John Smart, 1982 | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
19 | Conifer Climb
On the downstream side of the pinnacle. Scramble up ramp, slightly wide crack with a fused section after the horizontal break. The anchors for history maker can be used for a toprope anchor with a long chord and it is best to rap off those same bolts. FA: R. McMahon FA: Bob McMahon, 1978 | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
23 | ★★ Lightning le Magne
The striking line of the crag. Complex moves through pockets, crimps and pebbles on near perfect rock. Bring stick clip for the bolt off the deck with good gear the rest of the way. Size 4,3,2 cams for anchor up top work nicely if you’re creative. NA: angus smith FFA: JakeSouthen, 6 Nov 2022 | 11m, 1 | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | ★ Mi Amor
TREE IS OUT. Sustained climb, great fun. FFA: Jake Webb, 24 May 2023 | 9m | Robin Falls | ||
23 | ★★★ Dogwood
The off-width right of Ape. See p 196 of ACT Granite. FA: B. Aikman, 5 Nov 2022 | 20m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
17 | ★ Unknown
There is a grade 17 crack on the block 40m below 'On Remand' facing back toward the main cliff (i.e facing east). FA: unknown | Mount Buffalo | |||
17 | ★ Calabrese Salami Sandwich
A variant that links P1 of Calabrese into P2 of Salami.
FA: benwiessner & Lachlan Milne, 2 Nov 2022 | 2 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ Jack and the beanstalk
Trad anchor at top!!! Adventurous beginners trad route. climb up jelly bean past the tree then up the easy well protected chimney. be aware not to kick loose rocks off. FA: Ethan Parkes & Glenn | 18m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
21 | ★★ Surprise
Thin corner above the slab DBB FA: Simon Parsons & Doug Fife, 1982 | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
19 | ★★ El Camino
From the halfway ledge, climb the far right crack line finishing just left of the big chockstone. Tree belay. FA: Patrick Munnings & Hannah Rose, 2022 | 15m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
22 | ★★ Unexpected sex
An extension off Rock sex direct, adding an unexpectedly sustained bit of climbing. Climb as rock sex direct then at the rest ledge there is a line of bolts leading you left onto the slightly over hung face. Mantle over and head directly up to the anchors. Suggest bringing some gear or you can run it out FA: Kilroy, 10 Dec 2022 | 28m, 9 | Mt Stuart | ||
16 | ★ Moro
The wide corner crack left of Chardonnay Man to the same DBB FA: Patrick Munnings & Hannah Rose, 2022 | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
16 | For Old Times' Sake
The crack through the bulge stepping left to DBB lower-off. Takes a range of wires and small / medium cams. Be careful of loose rock (needs more cleaning). | 10m | Glovers Bluff | ||
20 | ★★★ Odyssey
One of the best trad routes on the Sunny Side! The prominent crack splitting the arete on the upstream face of the gully. Trends left into gully and traverses right using jugs through rooflet, finishing up crack to belay ledge. DBB FA: Hannah Rose & Patrick Munnings, Oct 2022 | 22m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
25 R | ★★ Vindaloo
If you like your curries spicy and your trad routes the same, this one is for you. Climbs the twin seams left of Bautzen, without using the blocks or crack of Bautzen. The crux is the sparsely protected moves to the first ledge. Continue up seams with better gear and easier moves to finish up V groove. DBB as for Bautzen FA: Patrick Munnings & Hannah Rose, Oct 2022 | 20m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
13 | ★ Cobweb
Up “Spider Arête” for 1.5m then left. Up wall tending left and not using arête. FA: Luke Baxter & Grant, 2022 | 8m | Mount Martha | ||
16 | Huntsman
Starts 3m right and uphill from the arête through steep terrain. Delicately up past small missing block and spiders nest. FA: Luke Baxter, 2022 | 7m | Mount Martha | ||
16 | Baby Bonsai
Variant to Bonsai avoiding the offwidth section | Freycinet National Park | |||
17 | ★★ Bonsai
On the north-easte side visible when coming from Sleepy Bay. Hand crack to offwidth past a small bonsai at the start and a bigger one mid route. Belay on tree at top and/ or scramble down gully to the left FA: Jeroen Jansen & Jai Friend, 16 Oct 2022 | 18m | Freycinet National Park | ||
21 | ★ Land of the Bloody Unknown
The large, right facing corner on the eastern wall. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 11 Oct 2022 | 30m | Mt Stuart | ||
14 | ★ Plastic Fantastic Lover
about 10m upstream from Bonanza is a thin corner crack widening to a tight offwidth with ledges on the left of the crack. Good gear and nice stances. Perfect for a beginner trad lead. FA: Patrick Munnings, 2022 | 9m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
16 | Fault Line (Direct Finish)
As for "Fault Line" until the big grotty jug, then straight up wall to top. Be vigilant of loose rock in places. FA: Luke Baxter & Grant, 2022 | 9m | Mount Martha | ||
18 | Fault Line
Starts as for "Falling Rock". Follows the diagonal line across the rock, just above overhang past grotty jug, and continuing right, finishing up near "Waterfall Route". Be vigilant of loose rock in places. FA: Luke Baxter & Grant, 2022 | 12m | Mount Martha | ||
4 | Bottlenose
The arête 3m right of “Boater Boy”. Easily up the delicate corner. Finishes up high as for “Boater Boy”. FA: Grant, 2022 | 7m | Mount Martha | ||
7 | Boater Boy
Starts 1m right and perpendicular to “Waterfall Route”. Easily up textured wall to highest point. FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 2019 FA: Grant, 2022 | 7m | Mount Martha | ||
6 | The Grot Slot
Into the back of the slot right of “Waterfall Route”. Chimney and up FA: Grant, 2022 | 8m | Mount Martha | ||
14 | Waterfall Route
Starts 3m right of “Falling Rock”. Up blocky arête staying right of the dark water marks. Avoid bridging. FA: Grant, 2022 | 8m | Mount Martha | ||
21 R | The Slib
No pro. Up slab L of HISP. FA: 2005 | 7m | Mt Alexander | ||
unknown
Start: Just left of Sometimes I Do. Up the crackline, to a FH & mallion, continue up, passing another FH. FA: unknown | 2 | Mt Maroon | |||
20 | ★ Better late than never
A short roof crack brings you to a boulder problem sequence to get established in the bottomless corner. Continue up corner with a glorious mantle finish. Crux sequence required a cutloose tricep dip for the FA. Keen to hear what people come up with to solve the problem. The crack has been thoroughly cleaned, you can setup a top rope/rap off a tree above a big boulder at the top if you use a long sling. Will consider adding anchors if it sees any traffic, jump on it and tell me what you think! FA: Dave Pastafarian, 14 Oct 2022 | 8m | Koorabar | ||
14 | Swatch
Around the corner from 'Easy Does It'. Start up an easy slab to a small roof, head up and over this to an easier top section | 7m | Mount Barker Summit | ||
12 | ★★ Sydney Sea Cliff Traverse - North Bondi
Sea Level Traverse - North Bondi (1.5km, Grade 12?) This southern section of coastline wraps it’s way around some glorious and beautiful ledge systems. It’s the easiest and least commiting of all the sections, with only one serious pitch of climbing. A great day out and a good adventure to bring a novice along. From the North: Start at The Murk (golf course) descent. Its possible to explore up to 500m north of this section without ropes. Heading south from the Murk, you will quickly arrive at the first crux. A short rope and some cams will see you around it no problem, depositing you into the Bondi Main Wall Sport crag. For an alternative entry point, or to escape, the gully on its south will help you out. Another 500m of straightforward rock hopping to the south gets you to the second and last crux of this section. Some stainless bolts would make rapping this much easier but for now either trust the old carrot or ask your partner to second the pitch (hint: it goes downwards). Once you work your way to the bottom it is an easy jaunt back to the beach. Try to do this at low tide, the rockpools here are phenomenal, the best of the entire traverse. From the South: From Bondi, begin your day on australia's most famous beach before diving immediately into australia's most beautiful rubbish dump. It’s pretty rough picking your way past the bogan hangouts but keep going, you just need to walk further than someone with a case of beer would. You can skip a lot of easy rock platforms by scrambling down at ben buckler. About 200m past the enormous boulders you’ll come to an impasse. At super low tide its possible to get around without ropes, but to stay dry, a 10m little pitch of grade 12 trad climbing will get you though. Beyond this pitch, another 300m of easy scrambling gets you to the main wall / sport crag. Either scramble out here via the gully on its south, or continue past the next, straightforward crux to scramble out via the golf course descent. Bring a single rack of cams with extra in the #1-3 range, a 30m rope and a can do attitude. | 1500m, 2 | Bondi | ||
21 | ★ Sydney Sea Cliff Traverse - The Mattings
Sea Level Traverse - The Mattings (1.5km Grade 21 or 18 M1) From the North: Open project From the South: Starting from the base of the matting descent, scramble fairly easily south for approx 400m until the ledge system narrows out. Just before it becomes dangerously thin spot the line of bolts dotted up the chossy wall. P1. French free up these for 15m to cramped belay under roof. P2. traverse this sloping sandy ledge system south for approx 80m past a few scary moves. P3. Spot a couple more screws leading up a small 2.5m ledge with sloping top out then head south for another 40m over the remnants of a recent landslide. P4. Follow this ledge system around the corner before heading up some thin ledges and backtracking slightly north for a few meters. Climb the very exposed but easy 2.5m wall with a screw or two. P5. Take the grassy ledge south for another 100m or so trending slowly upwards on a delicate soil ramp. This run continues for a while more with a very delicate traverse on a paper thin ledge 50m off the ground (by far the worst rock of the whole seacliffs). P6. Spot the cramped sandy cave up high and delicately climb up into it and rapping back out of it with a single screw on the other side. P7. Easily walk the next 100m to the end of the ledge take the free hanging rap 26m off the single screw to the exposed ledge system below. P8. Scramble another 50m south on this ledge before taking the final 20m rap to the ground of another screw. From here easily scramble south for another 500m using some old fisherman hardware here and there. Scramble out at the Bondi golf course or continue on into the last section of the traverse (another 1km or so with some easy cruxes, finishing at Bondi beach). FA: Sep 2022 | 1500m, 7 | The Mattings | ||
17 | ★★★ Sydney Sea Cliff Traverse - Rosa to Ron's
Sea Level Traverse - Rosa To Ron’s (2km, Grade 17?) This section is arguably the most classic moderate adventure route in NSW. A great day out requiring great, but not perfect swell conditions. From the North: - Cross the gap between Rosa Gully and Diamond Bay, one slippery section, nothing too tricky if the swell is low. - Traverse the slippery slot under the log of death (a couple of carrots), after walking through the cave on the other side, a small 6m rap is required to gain the lower ledge. - This lower ledge system will take you on a tour through time under bow wall crag. Mike laws artwork can be seen winding its way up the blankest, chosseist sections of rock. Crux 5 - This ledge system finishes under prowess. Either use the bolts here to gain the ledge then rap back down off one to the other side. Alternatively, whip out the trad gear and easily traverse this bit (provided its not soaked by the waves). - The simple walking tour continues from here past three cathedral like cave systems, some slippery traversing required but nothing too hard. - After about 300m, you’ll arrive under sanctum main buttress, and the bulk of the climbing in front of you Crux 4 - Scramble around the back of the sea cave and climb the little head wall on the far side. Traversing the ledge 5m up is much easier than saying low. - from here you have a couple options, either blast up the easy looking corner crack (grade 16 with a very hard grassy topout) or go south a couple more meters and rap down (needs bolts) to sea level again to wrap around to the south end of the big buttress you’re on. The crack on this far side looks much nicer to climb. A third option is to sidle around to the front of this buttress via a sandy ledge about 4-5m above the ledge you're on. its a bit heady on shit gear but the fastest way past this buttress. - Both options land you on a big ledge system. Traverse south about 15m and either rap 6m down to the lower ledge or climb 2m up to the higher option. This higher option needs bolts for a big 30m rap about 100m south, wereas the lower option can be abseiled with a 25m rope off an old fishermans spike. - Now that these paths have reconvened, scramble south for another 80m along a skinny ledge, building a belay off the old fisherman spike. It’s probably worth doing a micro 5m long pitch here and building a much better belay off the stainless spikes at the better ledge. - This next pitch goes at around grade 14 with bomber gear and great, balancy moves. Crux 3 - Another 100m of easy walking gets you to the last crux of this section of the traverse, buruwang main wall. - Theres a couple options here, either climb any of the routes that will get you up to the higher ledge (easiest is probably: Just one more bump, 12m, a pretty committing grade 22 mixed route), or… in the spirit of seacliff traversing, don’t go up, go sideways. This traversing pitch isn’t too hard, but is very pumpy, probably around grade 19, resting on gear makes it a lot easier, but it will give you a cardio workout nonetheless. - once you’re past buruwang main wall, its all easy walking and scrambling all the way to the mattings descent (huge fixed ropes). Exiting here makes for a great day out and a fairly easy 25min walk back to the diamond bay. From the South: Reverse the above beta FA: Jul 2021 | 2000m, 10 | Vaucluse | ||
22 | ★★ Sydney Sea Cliff Traverse - Trendies Corner
Jacob's Ladder to Rosa Gully (Diamond Bay) The most difficult and sustained section of the traverse. This bit alone involves roughly 150m of height gain and abseils, most of it on fairly bad rock. It is highly committing with multiple diagonal abseils, that once your rope is pulled, you have no option but to continue forwards. Bailing down or up is not an option for a large amount. Some of the roped up pitches can get up to grade 22 or a couple grades easier with a couple of aid moves. Truly an incredible adventure and if you want to really experience all the moods of the cliffs in one big day out (good rock and hard moves mixed with bad rock and easy moves, wave timing rock hoping sprints mixed with high exposure on thin ledges) this is the section for you. Sea Level Traverse - Trendies Corner (2.1km, grade 23 or 19 M1) This has probably got to be one of the longest and consistently cruxy sections of the seacliffs. It passes under some of the biggest and most impressive sections of cliffline. Unlike the South Head section, conditions have to be good but don’t have to be once-a-season perfect. It’s also much less red-hot, this stretch of coastline is about as serious as you can get for a day out in Australian climbing. From the North: Starts at the slot canyon Jacob’s Ladder just north of The Gap. Some slippery chimney moves on bad rock get you down into an easy scree slope. Before gaining water level, take the ledge system to the north about 10m off the water. This is fairly easy going for about 100m before quickly ending and requiring the rope and rack to be whipped out. The best option here is to head up the cliff to the next band of choss before continuing north again, turning the nose of orange rock at the super exposed vegetated layer on the very lip of the roof, about 30-40m above the ocean. Once around this corner rap down off the single screw doing a diagonal traverse. The seconder will need to remove the leaders gear and be pulled in underneath to the big sandy ledge just under the roof (15m down). This ledge system can be traversed north a while longer with a couple of roped up bouldery moves (some screws should protect these moves). Eventually this ledge system turns into a huge cave with a steep sandy floor with a slight track stamped into it. Scrambling around this feels a little like traversing a snow slope and avoiding setting off an avalanche. If this sand decides to “go”, you’ll be going with it, so careful. At its end is a rap station off some Gal screws. A 20-30m diagonal abseil and top rope traverse will get you to the next major ledge system about 15m above the ocean. From this ledge system rap off a single screw and rock hop the boulders for the next 100m. An awkward 5m boulder problem gets you back to higher ground. The next corner is best tackled by going up the thin sandy cracks for 15m. A a lower traverse about 5-7m off the ocean is definetly possible, but far more sustained and tricky climbing. From the upper ledge rap off the single bolt to the boulders below, time the waves and get out of the mouth of the chasm before a monster hits. A couple hundred meters of easy ground gets you to a belly crawl and then you want to start heading up. Decent gear and some hard ish climbing on the second pitch will get you to just under the nuclear bunker. Travserse this major ledge system for 150m passing a bouldery crux (a couple of screws protect this) before rapping down 25m off another single screw to the seal hangout. A tide timing wade is now needed or some ballsy lip traversing to stay on the rock, somewhere in the high teens to low 20”S grade and only 10m off the deck. The final bit of this section is defined by a sandy buttresses that isnt too bad to negotiate. Once past this final buttress you’ll end up in the housemaid’s knee section of cliffline, roughly 500m away from Rosa Gully (and swell permitting) an easy walk. FA: 18 Sep 2022 | 2100m, 15 | Vaucluse | ||
18 M1 | ★★ Sydney Sea Cliff Traverse - South Head
Hornby lighthouse to Jacob's Ladder Fairly difficult and extremely illegal section of the traverse. It begins at the military air base with a committing grade 18 traverse and a 27m abseil. Once the rope is pulled on this rap, the only way out is forward. Very low tides and swell are required along with difficult free climbing and even an archway to crawl through that gets flooded on every wave. Given the almost certain chance of an un-warented rescue being called on your behalf, its not worth attempting this part without certainty of success. When done with swims on a freakishly calm day this is quite a reasonable exercise, as only a handful of gaps require roping up. From the North: Starting at Watsons bay, walk and scramble south to reach the gaza strip. And unless you've previously explored this traverse in detail, leave a rap rope fixed and collect it later. You’ll be surprised at just how perfect the conditions must be to get around this part of the cliffline. The scramble starts out with some tricky wet bouldering sections before requiring you to rock hop and wade for a sort section. If the swell is too high and you have to stay high on the cliffline here, there's no point continuing as it becomes more and more condition dependant the further you go. Once around this crux, there's an easy 500m or so of rock hoping and cave scrambling. About 200m before turning the corner on The Gap main wall, there is a tricky and dangerous wet boulder problem move (can be protected with gear), followed by some more tricky and exposed climbing. The chossy band of rock 30m off the deck is the best way through, goes fairly easily at about grade 16 M0 on terrible gear or maybe 23 if you were to free the last moves. A 27m rap gets you to the ground and some hurried scurrying to get around The Gap corner. Once inside The Gap, the back inlet/stream can be crossed/ at low tide and the keyhole on its southern corner can be squeezed though also. If you’re in any doubt as to what conditions are required to send this part of the traverse, have a peak at the keyhole from the railing at The gap, It is “Just” visible if you crane your neck nearby the lowest part of the lookout system. Once through the Keyhole, the first bail option on this section appears as “Escape Climb” (15). To continue the traverse, the big zawn must be climbed to gain dulling biceps area. This wet horizontal pumpfest has been done by Mikl and co in the 80's. Roughly 40m of climbing up to grade 22, worth pitching up to save decking on the submurged boulders. From dulling biceps it’s an easy (at low swell) scramble around to Jacob's Ladder where this section of the traverse finishes. FA: 18 Sep 2022 | 2100m, 10 | Watsons Bay | ||
Violet Crumble
| 7m | Mount Martha | |||
16 | Flash Flood
FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2001 | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
14 | Can You Swim Dallas?
Thin crack to ledge, then chimney FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2001 | 13m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
18 R | Inundated
Arete left of SLS, crux is unprotected | 12m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
Devil in my ear - Dane
The arete right of 'Demon'. An easier variant, but the ground is further away. Not that it'll make a difference really. | Orroral area | ||||
21 | ★★★ Ring The Rescue Chopper
One of the classic trad lines of the Gorge. On the upstream end of the buttress in the gully a very thin crack leads to a ledge and another thin crack to finish along an easy hand traverse right to a bolted lower-off. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 16m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
22 | ★★ Mind Harvest
Short enjoyable climbing, start as for QB and climb direct through blonde rock and top out. Good protection in the break. FA: Jackson O'Grady | 10m | Moonah Road Crag | ||
11 | Scratching Post
Climb the short crack on the right edge of Male Bonding Pitch 1 to a stance a few metres up. From here take a rising line rightward to join and finish up Whipping Post. Small cams required. FA: Philip Armstrong, Kathy Matic, Peter Cody, David Lia & Emerson Cody, 11 Oct 2018 | 16m, 1 | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | Telopea
| 25m | Mount Wellington | ||
19 | The Spirit
| 30m | Mount Wellington | ||
12 | The Steps
| 25m | Mount Wellington | ||
16 | Caledonian
| 45m | Mount Wellington | ||
17 | Circus Minimus
| 30m | Mount Wellington | ||
20 | Circus Maximus
| 30m | Mount Wellington | ||
Mixed Emotions
Follow the same 6 bolts of MF up sharp arete. At the horizontal crack, break right by a meter to large hands crack. Top out for DBB. | 14m, 6 | Paluma & Hidden Valley | |||
22 | ★★ Mixed Feelings
Crimp hard through the slabby arete for six bolts. Follow the winding finger crack just to the right of horizontal break to a top out with DBB. Size 0.4-0.75 and 1 size 3. FFA: Jack Heenan | 15m, 6 | Paluma & Hidden Valley | ||
15 | Abraham Lichen
Starts 5m right of “Out of Lockdown” corner. Up the cleaner streak in the moss to ledge at around 5m. Can belay here or continue up in one pitch. Up face right of “Out of Lockdown” and finishing at the anchor. DBB FA: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie | 15m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
10 | Toilet Roll of Terror
Starts 2m left of the “Dunny Brush of Doom”. Direct up wall to tight end of the mossy ledge at around 5m. Move up steepening wall around 2m left of the of DBoDs 1st bolt. Trad gear up 1m left of past DBoDs 2nd bolt, meeting DBoD at its 3rd bolt. Can place trad in high flake and traverse left to anchor as for DBoD. Lower off 2 rings. FA: Grant, Luke Baxter & Tayla Chrystie | 20m, 1 | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | ★ Green Gate
Starting up 'Sluice' , find your way to the crux and go boldly out right through the exciting obvious traverse. Bomber gear, Grand exposure. Climb all the way into 'Green Rope Berets' and top out to belay off Large boulder. Double ropes ideal. Set: JakeSouthen | 35m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
18 | ★★ Boti
No curry without a knife and this is the sharpest blade around. Climb the knife edge arete between G and SK and avoid cutting into the easier climbs around. This may seem contrived but makes a excellent climbing experience. Bring small to medium cams and a few micros FA: Jeroen Jansen & Anne Knox, 28 Sep 2022 | 22m | Bruny Island | ||
20 | ★★ Meet Me At The Crux
Another excellent contemporary style route added by Simm_o and Rick during 2022. Led onsight ground up. P1 Rick, P2 Simm_o. Follows a series of funky grooves and cracks on the lower pitch to a steep bulging and exposed finger crack on the upper pitch with easier corners and face climbing to the top. Double standard rack. Double ropes reccommended. Currently marred by some appalling rock and dicey but easy moves at the beginning of pitch 2. However, after a further clean on abseil (and potentially but not necessarily a bolt), it will offer excellent climbing up a strong line. Start as for 'More Than a Pretty Face' and 'Fan Tail'. P1 grade 20, 25 m - After gaining the beginning of the grooves shared by 'More Than a Pretty Face', follow the first groove and crack up then step delicately right into a trench above and right (take care on some still loose rock). Good med cams and wires. More delicate moves to exit up and left out of the trench onto easier ground. Up to belay ( small/med cams and wires) on the right end (facing in) of an orange ledge next to the righthand of two small figs. P2 grade 20, 40 m - From the belay move delicately along the (at present very loose blocky) ledge and balance up to place a decent high small wire just up and right of the second fig. Step back down off the ledge and gingerly but easily hand traverse left across precarious loose blocks and poor pro to the end of the ledge. More easy but dicey moves up to gain bomber gear in the start of the finger crack proper. Follow the finger crack (crux) 8m through a series of exposed bulges and balancy moves with excellent small wires and cams, to pull over a final bulge to a rest. Follow the easier well protected corners up until a rooflet caps the last corner. Escape the roofs to the right by a committing step right onto the face (great small/med cams) then up another 20m over easier well protected ground trending slightly right to belay stances where the buttress rounds over into the large vegetated gully. | 80m, 2 | Warrumbungles | ||
20 | ★★ Fan Tail
An excellent modern style trad route up a series of unlikely features through a steep, intricate and pumpy weakness. Very different more sporty climbing compared to most other rock on the spires. Might be one star at present as it still has lots of loose rock on it after the first ascent. However, after a good clean on abseil or more ascents, it will offer solid and superb rock. Protection is fiddly and intricate to place but entirely adequate with modern tactics. Long slings and double ropes are essential. Med RPs, full rack plus double cams up to BD/WildCountry(WC) No.1, critical micro cams (WC 0.1 to 0.2). Led ground up by Simmo with 1 rest below the crux, after all the obvious foot and hand holds kept breaking off ! Shares the same start as More Than a Pretty Face and Meet Me At The Crux. Start at ground level at a small right-leaning overlap about 80 m down the scree gully and overhung blocky wall that extends from Belougery Pinnacle. This is where the orange and grey stone on the left meets water-streaked black and white blocky stone under the lowest point of the Vee emerging from the first large vegetated ledge on the spire. Breach the overlap going left through a small ledge where a grass tree (Xanthorrhoea) is growing (sneaky good 0.5 WC cam), with delicate and committing moves to pull into the bottom grooves of More Than a Pretty Face, med bomber RP and 0.75 WC higher up. Begin an intricate right traverse across the black and white blocky water-streaked rock to gain a small corner below rooflet. Excellent but fiddly wires and micro cams. Treat all footers and hand holds with much caution until it gets more cleaned up. Sort out more excellent but intricate wires and micro cams from the corner, then commit to the cryptic and pumpy crux through the rooflet, then trend back left over the pumpy bulge, bomber micro cam, to strenuously gain a finger crack and easier ground. Re-compose and follow the line of least resistance trending slightly right up the divine and still thought-provoking, water-worn stone to the lowest part of the Vee of the large lower vegetated ledge. Good wires and med cams. | 48m | Warrumbungles | ||
29 | Straight Up the Chook
Link Yesterday Direct into Use No Chooks. FFA: Chris Abernethy | 20m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★★ Peregrine
A fantastic varied crack high up on the west face of the spire. It provides a superb low(er) commitment but engaging approach to the south summit pinnacle on the spire. Excellent protection, clean rock and stellar crack climbing which all in one combo is a rarity in the Bungles. Stays in the shade till after midday (1 to 2pm ish in September). Start on the upper ledge system (above and south of the Vertigo ledges) reached via pitch 1 and 2 of Dr Dark's Chimmney (the scrubby gully accessed from the base of the Abseil Gully), or pitch 1 and 2 of If the Spirit Moveth (and No Birthdays on Pluto). Done as one 50-55m pitch to the summit. Start 10m right (facing in) from the slab pitch (pitch 3) of Dr Dark's Chimmney. From the broad ledge below the slabs, solo easy ground up and right to a good belay stance in the grassy recess below a chockstone belay. The finger crack through a small bulge (crux) can be seen 8m above. The crack eases and widens after the crux bulge and after 25-30m arches left to join Dr Darks Chimmney for the final 20-25m. Belaying once the Chimney is reached would also be an option. Led ground up by Rick with Peregrines buzzing about in magic conditions. Originally done in a combo with the first ascent of Fan Tail. When done as a combo with either Fan Tail, or Meet Me At The Crux, it provides an excellent contemporary and engaging route to the summit. The scrubby gully and halfway ledges provide easy access and bail options for lower commitment on shorter days. | 55m | Warrumbungles | ||
15 | Destry Rides Again
Near the top of the gully to the right of the Feed the Chooks pinnacle. Best approached from above. Climb the crack on the right hand side of the gully, opposite Feed the Chooks Some More. FA: Jerry Maddox & Peter Cody, 7 Mar 2022 | 11m | Halls Gap Area | ||
22 | ★ Chunky But Funky
RH variant start for Little Boy. Up double aretes, linking in with previous climb at its 3rd bolt (avoid bridging off RH blocks for the full value). Straight up slab to finish. Take some large cams for the start. DBB FA: Steve Postle & Nick Morgan | 10m, 2 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge |