Routes in Australia for selected grade

One of the best lines at the crag!! Climb Brummel Hook for 18m to just above the roof. Where Brummel Hook drifts R, instead head straight up the orange flake and keep on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go. Luke Hansen

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

Start up Cheesemonster. At the break traverse right a few metres to join Non Dairy Cheeselike Substitute, and finish up that.

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.

Supposed to be the easier variant to Mr Tickle, some people lacking adequate forearm fitness actually find it to be harder. Start as for Mr Tickle but traverse left and finish up Hairline.

The only bolted line in this cave.

Classic Power Route.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but should be ok from last bolt.

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

As for Chulahoma to ledge, then head further right under roof to next line of bolts. Funky climbing to make it through roof and around lip. Grade is a total guess. Tom was working moves and had no real sequence sorted. Went up for another working burn and just climbed the whole way through. He went back a few years later and couldn't figure out the sequence that worked and it all felt hard.

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

3m L of Microwave. Independent climbing to halfway then join Microwave just below its flake.

Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Staring at the Sea at the rest hole. From there bust straight up through the boulder problem that earns you the grade without stepping left into Tsunami!! Chug out the roof and finish at the top.

Fred's finest linkup. Given 33 but settled at 32 after repeats? Start as for 36, then through Stugang Extension crux then climb the holds just right of circus street linking back to the end of the cave.

As for Cl but keep going straight up via very reachy moves.

Start: Start as for CL.

The journey to the centre of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green Grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof.

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original.

Wormhole Search into Nirvanoxyne.

Line of bolts right of Kung Fu Muscle and left of The Last Ninja. A unique route for the mountains, bouldery and sustained hard pockets. A visionary bolting effort by Scotty B and inspired siege by Logan.

Start up Tug Boat then move R into Point Break/Microwave. Roman

Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.

Start at offwidth/chimney and head steeply right

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing.

Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp.

You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline.

Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick.

Buckle up for adventure. First 2 bolts of Green Grass then left and up to intersect The Milkbar on left side of big roof. Climb to left of big flake and crux then over to finish as for Lord Elphinstone.

HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (31) Follow Mirage for 18m to gain the hanging slab atop the steep white corner. Now doddle up L (ha ha) past bolts to the start of the groove, and more easily to hanging belay at chain (30m rap).

2. 25m (28) Amazing climbing up the line of shallow water scoops in incredible red stone, 7FHs to chain (25m to 1st belay, 55m to ground).

Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Up WM for 3 bolts, then left as for BM, then keep going left for miles ... traverse, traverse, traverse. Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

Climb Plumbus and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics.

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone. Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

Jack_Masel | Jake Bresenhan

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Adds an additional 5m of perfect climbing to the start of MP, start as for the sub zero boulder problem and continue into MP.

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area. The only route in this sector without an irritating batman start, but you still have to stick clip. Start up the log near the end of the hand rail. Like the sign says, please don't belay in the bushes (belaying on the track is fine if you step left). Jack Masel Rick

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall.

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

Links the crux of Pooferator into the crux of Equaliser. Roman (starts at 12:35)

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

A variant finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl.

Far left hand route.

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

Lee Cossey generously gave this route to a visiting Frenchman who had become rather enamoured with it. Departs Green Grass after its crux and heads straight up and through a series of roofs and beyond. Finish at the chains for Zigzagonal. Lee Tom

Start as for Mr Meaner for 3 bolts then move a bit L. Sustained crimping for about 10m of independent climbing, eventually joining the top flake of Mr Magoo. Continue into Super Goo to the top of the cliff.

Monique Forestier's 2003 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 32.

Batman or make yourself a Bachar ladder to reach the start. Then up a couple of the ladder rungs to get into the proper rock. Blast straight up and up and up to get yourself under the high bulge. Some tricky moves manoeuvring around the bulge then out left through the roof to turn the lip and climb the last few meters up the slab to high anchor. May be easier?

A fun and pumpy route with good holds following a boney start. Follow the first 8 bolts of Schweinebaumeln then step left following a short flake to end beneath the main roof.

Monique's ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 31.

A link up. From the anchors of Snake Flake, traverse left into the top half of Groove Train via one bolt.

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

Mostly easy first half leads to a dyno out the lower roof (requires a long sling or 2), clip a hidden chain, then up the sustained second half with a difficult sequence in the upper roof. Best cleaned by reversing to the first anchor.

Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton

As for The Simple Life for three bolts, then right and through centre of cave. Runout and hard.

Slab > roof > big throw > headwall > two crimp mantle

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

Exiting the corner of Tekken to join Balance of Evil via. a two move V9 boulder problem.

Closed Project atmo.

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

One for the bone crushers. Not sure if it's been done since a hold was broken off many moons ago. Great looking line on great rock!

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-31-at-bobs-hollow/

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

A reachy start with a brutal boulder sequence through the roof, guards 20 meters of amazing jugs to the finish.

An excellent route that offers consistently difficult climbing in between large jugs!! Mandatory climbing at grade 26 in between the top 4 bolts, culminating in an all out dyno at the 2nd to last move, cementing the route's classical status and guaranteeing an exciting crux. 20 meters right of Phil's project, at the base of the wall's obvious flake system. Batman start

The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor.

Fantastic steep gymnastic climbing out of the initial cave then navigates some more tenuous climbing up several shallow tufas to the crux. Starts in the cave at the left end of the fixed rope and finishes as for the final 2 bolts of Sith Lord.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.

Start up The Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.

As for Heatseeker to the first crux above the obvious break. From here break left and follow the slopers, pinches, crimps and jugs. Oh, and pockets!! Up the awesome baked red wall that only red ledge offers.

Amazing short line. Stand start on good crimps then big hard dead point to slopper, match and mantle.

This has been glued since at least the early 2000s and likely done, this might possibly be 'New age'

Sit Start LH Sit Pull and RH Crimp. Dyno to the finish hold of 'Grope a Sloper' and top out.

Sit start at the far back left of the cave on good holds. Make a series of big moves on poor holds through the blank section of rock and directly gain the good hold in the crack (CBTS finish hold). From here continue up through ion stone flake and head towards the matching sloper before making a big move to the lip. Mantle and finish.

Looks insane, mostly due to the slopy pumpy holds at the end. Start at the very LSH of the crag, crank right for 20m on amazing holds before launching into "" for a pumpy finale.

Whales tales starts with both hands down low on the sharp flake (matched as low as you can) and moves up the arete via the big sheild. The stand start (V8) starts with one hand on the arete right hand crimp and left hand on the face crimp a bit higher up. Tall man beta might drop a grade on both of these.

Sit start to Stargazing. Start matched on the obvious block and go up.

Sit start as per 'Can't dance, but I can do the Twist', traverse lip to the right, exiting as per 'Hop on Up'.

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

A little way downstream from ‘Tiger Cheese’ you will find a tall block with an obvious mono pocket in the middle of it. Sit start and straight up

Sit start as for Power Up, then make hard moves right into to the start holds of Muy Forte and finish up that climb.

CMCC

A Lesson in Core Movement direct. After the crux of core movement, head straight up to a slopey edge and delicately mantle your way out using various slopers and blind feet.

The very slopey bulge, head up and right.