Routes in Australia for selected grade

A more powerful version of 'Japetus'. Once at the large break, cut right up the rampline of 'Stench' and finish at that routes chain. Sustained.

Begin at the Overhung Corner / Protruding Buttress right of Stench Before the Storm's face. Continue up the wall on good holds.

The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face.

Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper.

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

“Up the wall Right of RESURRECTION to a squatting rest beneath the Roof, Step left , Clip a bolt - Then fight Up to the nipple on the arete. Finish up the HAND CRACK. There are variants but the above mentioned is most popular “ Rock climbing around Adelaide. George Adams , John Dutton (14M3) 1970 TR Jim Olsen 20.10.74 FFLA Henry Barber 15.4.75 (19) FFLA Rod Young 18.9.79 (22)

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only.

The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds.

Run out between 1st and 2nd, and 2nd and 3rd bolts with ground-fall potential. 4 bolts. Safer to bring trad gear for protection between bolts. 5th bolt is for the direct finish out left.

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

Longest route on the wall. Actually starts as for 'Gorilla My Dreams Original Direct Start' and takes a long diagonal up this then right across the now more popular bolted DS. Where that route breaks left to finish up the crack, keep trending right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings through a very bouldery finish exiting about 2-3m right of the other lines. Watch your back at the top.

The line 2m left of 'Trundle down rundle' - 5 bolts

Up 4 bolts Lt of Grurper direct. Then traverse up and Lt past 2 more bolts to chains. DBB

A link up that a lot of people do (surprised to see it was not here yet). Grurper to its anchor, then head left into AHA to make a long and nice pitch, where the traverse between routes is the only spicy addition. 23** in the CCSA mini guide to the summit. A tad harder than Grurper, but more similar in grade to that climb than to Anzac, so keeping 23 here as per the mini guide, but 22 would also be fair.

Start: Left of 'Crossroads'

Straight up to the exciting move onto the big ledge. 3 bolts to rap station. NB: The original Grurper starts near North Terrace Stroll and gains the big ledge from the R.

Crossroads then diagonally right into KPDM then traverse the lip of the small roof to join Peregrine at its anchor.

Bear up R, then through a roof and up the wall to a DBB.

The original Peregrine 17M5 had 5 pitches but climbing above the 2nd pitch is off limits.

An eliminate! Takes a contrived lefthand version of 'Peregrine' past an additional fixed hanger. Finish at the loweroff of PRHV.

As contrived as its name! Start up 'Peregrine RHV', and at the first bolt traverse left below the crux to the first bolt of 'Peregrine'. Finish up 'Brotherhood of the Black Chicken'.

The most fallen off crux move at the Summit. Takes the easy juggy start below the 1st ring bolt to a big move for a well-chalked crimp/slope - and a reach out left to a jug. Finish up on the slab.

Been done ages ago but not recorded on this site. Up Eddie until it reaches out left within a move of Peregrine then finish up that route.

Footless to the 2nd bolt

Peregrine RHV to after crux then downclimb Peregrine LHV and back to start. Slightly harder in reverse.

Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish.

Start up "Fat Neck" to the first bolt, continue out through the roof.

Same start as Fat Neck. Head slightly left and up into underclings, then follow jugs (and the bolts), jumping off when you get scared. The high chalked jug is the generally accepted finishing hold.

Same start as Fat Neck, but directly right into large undercling, then to LH sloper and better RH sloper holds. Up and left through more underclings/sidepulls to good, round jug hold up under big roof.

Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof.

Stand start holding the pinch of Aftertaste Low Traverse and the finish jug of SGF. Dyno RH to a sloping jug in the top break.

Starts at far right-hand end of cliff line on left side of scoop/shallow cave (questionable rock) finish up slopers on right.

Bolted line few metres left of 'Echidna Believe It', starting up wall/arête and finishing on DBB

A varied route that takes a striking line. Begin at the hand crack just right of the arete. A hard start over a small roof leads to good crack climbing and a rest on the L arete level with the main roofline. Swing around R to regain the crack and follow it up the slab past a bush. Climb the ramp up L then straight up the wall just R of the arete.

Quoted from Nick Neagles guide.

Sit start on left hand side of upper cave on the big ledge. Traverse left and out and follow the Layered edges. Finish on good juggy holds or top out on the left hand side.

Sit start the main arete. Move to the next sloper hold of this problem then move left to the side-pull in the centre of the roof. From here make a big move to the gaston in the middle of the roof arete and mantle. Either top out or finish on the headwall.

Jump Start to the lip of Whealy Easy's mantle and then downclimb it left to the cave, then continue left into 'Iron Cave Traverse' and finish for that.

Sit Start as for 'CTHF' once you make the first moves to good sidepull head right to good crimp rail. Continue right through small holds then past the main weakness to some small holds near the lip and top out on the last highpoint of the boulder 1m right of frog attack.

Sit start under the overhang on the RH side of boulder. Start matched on the large jug. Move to a good edge then make a big move to a good hold on the arete. From there follow the arete to the top.

Stand start with left hand as per Pogger, but right hand in the undercling on the face. Finish climb as per Pogger

Stand Start on left hand edge below lip and right on a good edge/pinch on lip. Head directly up to a spicy mantle.

Sit start LH on the wide pinch and RH on juggy edge, move up to large blocky hold under the overhang. Move right hand to the wedged looking sloper then left to a sloper on the top which is matched. From work your way up through more slopes until a good hold on the summit is reached.

I pledge a legion to the life of the Quarryman. Do this route and you'll be a true Car Crash Quarryman! A left to right traverse of the entire quarry. The description is described with the pitches I did but the piteches can be done however you choose to do them. Gear is mixed.

Pitch 1. Start just left of 'Old School Face Slap' and traverse the underside of the overhang to the end of the big roof of Covid22. Scramble across the slab to a stance in the corner at half way height. Clip 'Fading Light's' third bolt and climb across this, around the arete. Anchor into 'Smearing on Mount McKinley's' third bolt.

Pitch 2. Climb across 'Technicolour Sunfish' keeping in in line with the third bolt. Climb through the 'Fear' crack, around the corner and above the Bee Hive (try not to get stung by any bees!) and head towards the chains of 'Stepping into the Unknown'.

Pitch 3. From here keep heading right through the high vertical cracks and around the arete. Join 'Hard Stone City' at it's horizontal sloping ledge. Downclimb this route slightly and head towards the chains of 'Rainbow Wall.

Pitch 4. Climb through 'Running To A Standstill' keeping at it's third bolt and into 'No Mans Land' slab. Keep going through the vertical crack of 'Naturalist' and into Exodus keeping at half way height of this line.

Pitch 5. Climb around the arete and into the centre of 'Sexy Love Slots' slab. Keep going at half way height until you reach the big semi detached block of 'Dont Touch Me There'. Climb under and around this, around the arete into the vertical Seam of 'Fisting A Shark' to a stance on this climbs big roof crack block.

Pitch 6. From Here downclimb 'Felch Me Directs' crack and join 'Felch Me' at it's second bolt. Climb this route into the V corner, across 'OCD' keeping just under the overlap and through the Chossy corner of 'Choss Stone City'.

Pitch 7. Climb around the slight arete, keeping in line with 'Taste The Pains' third bolt. Climb through this line and under the big roof of 'Disposable Garbage'. Pay extra caution to the blocks under here as they are loose. Climb around the corner and head for 'ELV's' chains.

Pitch 8. From here rest because the next pitch is the crux pitch. Downclimb the staircase and head through the V hold of 'Footloose', and climb 'Beg For Mercy' to the very end!

The often looked at but overlooked section of rock on the left-hand side of the quarry to the left of Urban Decay. Starts on the left-hand side of the overhang in the corner. Climb the corner to a good stance under the overhang. Head out and up the left-hand side face through a series of compression moves to the chains. Mixed.

The first bolt can be stick clipped from the slab just left if you did not want to lead it mixed.

The line that goes through the V shaped small roof. Start under the V. Climb the face on good holds to the roof. Make some bouldery moves coming out of the roof and mantle the slab. Easy slab climbing to the chains.

climbs the arête on smears to the over sized anchors. A technical piece.

Bouldery variation to the start of Hard Stone City following the two new ring bolts.

Difficult Mantle move

Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity.

Climbs the left hand side of the corner. Start up the very loose brittle white rock and work through the detached blocks. Once at the overhang get some jams above your head and work your way into the top of 'Taste The Pain'. Finish at the old rusty chains for the full experience. WARNING The first half is extremely loose. Make sure your belayer is anchored well left of the fall zone!

Neagle entered this route in his guide as a bit of a joke on the chossy corner to the left of ELV. 24 years later it's officially a route. Start as for 'The Power of the Choss Compels You', climb the LH side of the corner and just before the roof leave it and head towards the thin crack in the roof. Climb up and out of the slight overhang, mantle the slab and climb it to the top. No chains yet but they will be installed in the next few weeks.

The rock is shit. The gear is shit. Only climb it if you really feel the need to and even then don't do it. Climb another route instead. A serious undertaking with serious consequences if you fall!

The ultimate Graffiti Wall link up traverse! Climb "ELV Extension" into "Footswitch" into "Beg for Mercy".

Start slighty left of the original on two small edge side pulls and head directly up on small holds to ledge at mid point. Finish up original line. First bolt cannot be reached so it's a high-ball to the second bolt.

An extension of ELV. Climb ELV to its anchors. Making a move up and left to a good hold then traverse left through the corner and onto the blocky slab. Follow the lines of bolts to the anchors. Climbs better than it looks!

The climb traverses through some questionable but solid large blocks so use caution when in this area. Belayer to belay from RHS of ELV.

Stand start on the big jug of Nigel's Traverse climb for the traverse right until the big flat edge of ELV and then finish for ELV.

Sit start with LH gaston edge and higher RH sidepull. Make three moves to gain good gaston of original. Take it to the top!

ELV to its 2nd bolt then veer hard right, gain the staircase, rest for a year or two, then into RO clipping its 2nd bolt. Finish as for RO direct.

Originally established at 24 via the RO start (the start of Merciless), but a better route starting up PO making it a grade easier. Climb the first two BR's of Percetive Orators then head right across the good jug on AGW and clip the bolt out right on Elephantiasis. Span right to a positive sidepull then keep traversing right into Gonads RHV. Climb the last two BR's of this route and finish at the chain of Mercy Street.

Start up PO then break left into RO after the first bolt and finish up this. Another link.

Start on good sidepull, head directly up to large curved jug rest before moving up to a funky final sequence in smaller incuts. Grading for this line has changed over the years due to holds breaking. Current grading is approx 20-22

Up Perceptive Orators to the break, then right across the break and into Elephantiasis of the G. A good link. Can also be started as for AGW.

Rarely done. Takes line right of PO through underclings to scar (horizontal) - then up to independent chain shared with Elephantiasis.

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then left into PO and finish up this.

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then bust right and continue as for Beg for Mercy. Sport version of Gonads RHV

The line without a lower off. Start up EofG, then span right into the right hand crack, and finish straight up (no lower off). Superseded now by the (safer) Beg for Mercy finish.

The direct start of 'Gonads RHV' but instead of taking its original finish (no anchor and choss), it finishes at the Mercy Street chains. Now a full equipped sport route.

Through the centre of the overhangs R of Beanicle's.

Start at the R end of the face and follow the diagonal ledge up L to the horizontal and a bolt.Up past a second bolt to chains.

An access route to get to the belay anchor of CSfH. Bouldery start, then go up the sharp flake on the right to clip the 3rd draw and move left to a tricky mantle. The rock quality from this point on is not the best, so be careful of your belayer.

Don't let a chossy start and end section detract from an intricate and engaging route! Bouldery moves up to the second bolt lead to a thought-provoking thin layback seam. Watch the rope up to the 4th bolt (it has a penchant for ankles). After a well deserved rest at the 5th bolt enjoy choss slab glory up to anchor.

Start as for Kev but head directly upwards. RH to sloper, then use holds to the left (instead of breaking right towards the undercling). No gear placements, but difficult climbing is all in the first 3-4m as with Kev.

A true boulder problem leading to an easy finish. From underclings, latch the sloper (easier if you go with your left) - then up to a large undercling and onwards. RH (on sloper) version is more committing at about V2.