Routes in Sutherland

Start 2m left of Dyno at horizontal pocket feature. Reachy moves between good holds finishing through roof on nice orange features. Three rusty carrots. Right to shared lower off

closed project up thin layback seam/crack to slab

Top rope only?

Start: Right of T.

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.

Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of Screaming Pretty with bolt pro.

Up the crack (BR near top), over small roof to chain lower off.

Start: Below incipient corner crack.

Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB.

Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack.

Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt

Up chimney to cave, and up the wall

Start as for A, layback the crack to join A

Traversing line across the wall, old bolts for pro

Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town!

Super juggy arête pillar thing on left side of cave. Dirty top out. History unknown.

Start: left of M.D.

Directly up to horizontal break on B.F

Start at blank section just left of the arete. Up to good break and onwards.

Hard start up vertical crack, traverse right, mantel over finish at anchors.

The seeping right facing corner around the corner from ER. Twin cracks to Storm water drain.

The left arete. Steep line with mixed pro

The obvious corner system, with bomber gear - was originally marked DT. The first completed climb at Rainbow.

Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off.

Corner crack just left of ALH.

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Fun juggy climbing up thin rock ridge. Not much protection.

Start: at crack.

Up crCK Then right to break and up.

Shire trad classic. About 45m L of the Main Wall in a R-facing corner starting on a ledge 3m up (there are rungs 15m left below Funk Little Corner). Up past break to balance slab into corner and good gear, one hard move. Take some finger sized nuts and shallow cams, and a Green camalot for the final move.

Up curved slab on right end of wall, lots of gear. A good route to learn trad gear on.

The following climb is located just right of the overhanging wall in the middle of the cliff (about 50m right of the Black Wall). Marked "X", 4m right of the overhanging wall. Sustained climbing up the steep wall (natural gear).

Start 2m left of TTS at ground level right facing flake. Hard start, move left using horizontal slot, up slab and through weakness in bulge above. Move left to lower of as for No HandsAll trad, big cams useful.

Start below flakes left of DT. 2 bolts to anchor. Rebolted 2021

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

A dirty and vegetated seam crack 5m left of Centopah. Yum.

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb.

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

Start 5m R of Zilla. Up wall left of arete of gully, good sling at top. A thin move as you leave the gear.

Medium cams finish at shared anchors

The last crack on the wall, a few metres further from Tweedlebum, thin cracks up bulge to ledge and then mantle (crux). Keep the ledgefall potential in mind. (If you have to remove the plant from the top crack you're not strong enough.)

The right arete. Mixed line to chain belay

Start 5m left of QB flake. Up past big pocket and black wall to ledge, then short easy wide crack through roof. Good trad gear in horizontals. take a lot of thin hand to fist sized cams.

Grade 23/24? Start below large roof crack in middle of weathered wall. Up and out the roof crack. The manky old bolts need replacing. (Note Not recommend to climb water now continues to seep from crack slippery and loose

Starts on far right of this wall at easy crack. At top of blocky crack go up a crack on the arête above. Traverse around or climb over boulder to tree

Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start.

About 15m R of TicTacToe wall. Up corner and layback roof (big cam). Good gear.

Obvious crack left of bardo booty

Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear.

Good gear and crimps up the yellow seam left of Yellow Edge.

Up corner to chain belay. New ring bolt lower off. 2021

(Link Up) Start up Sick Cows On Acid and do the crux, clip the 2nd bolt and move up to the higher break. Hand Traverse right (gear) and finish up Hip and Hunky Rhythm taking the final bolt and anchors.

Left most climb. Up short featured face on left side of block. 1 rusty carrot for Belay. walk off possible. Easiest climb here.

Follow black seam 3m L of Yellow Edge. Good wires at half height which protects the hard move to jugs.

Start at Time spent taken needing small and offset protection up and over the overhang and finish up on TST's anchors

Wide roof crack mini route that requires nearly zero off-widthing!

Can be done either as a trad route (protect with 1-2 size 6s) or as a high ball boulder.

Big obvious chimney with offwidth characteristics. Chickenwings are definitely involved. stay out towards the edge. originally soloed. no gear. a boulder?

Quality moderate Grit. Start up thin breaks between Get It On and Dave's Toaster and up feature to break. Climb the face with interesting moves and good gear to mantle and tree anchor.

Face up right side of block. 1 rusty carrot for Belay. walk off possible.

Classy easy route. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts. Either finish before the top and use the anchors for The Chimney or continue to the top and belay off the big block.

Little layback corner. Can be used as a variant start to Kaching.

Start: left of I.E.

Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start

Wide crack on LHS of gully left of Fridge left Side. Good gear.

The splitter roof crack 1.5m right of Burning Shells.

Finish at Burning Shells anchors.

Bouldery!

Left arete starting above the rusty metal. Up the arete, trying to stay away from OOW. New stainless u bolt lower offs 2021.

The destination climb. Offwidth crack through roof and up. Possibly inverted beta would work best? Needs big gear #3-#5, ideally 2 #4's. Short but burly. Sandy.

FA: Heel Toe Tom, Dyno Jake and Chickenwing Rohan.

Starts at white square left of Bahs Crack. Head up face, past two rusty old pitons (clip at your peril) and over somewhat spicy roof to finish. Two rusty carrots up top but can extend anchor to tree next to railing with a bunch of long slings.

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

Start: as for F.P.

Traverse. up crack then right to M.D and up.

Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.

RHS of gully. Unprotectable easy climbing with technical finish.

Up the thin crack feature on small gear, avoid bridging across to face on left. Once ledge is gained move left into squeeze chimney with more small gear in the back. Move up and right back into crack on face and top out. Walk off or abseil off tree.

The direct line up the breaks. Slopey topout. Trad anchor up top and easy walk off.

two meters left of DTE below the corner. Up the vegetated corner, then up the much better headwall

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2?

Climb true direct to the anchors of pyromaniac, through centre of bolts on each side via gaston pocket and flaring vertical seam.

Up horizontal breaks on face to the right of Bah's Crack. Great moves. Belay off big tree next to railings.

Up ramp corner system to ledge then thru roofs about a metre R of Emu's Paradise and up crack past ring at top (short draw or screwgate as it's a bit low) to an awkward topout.

At crack 1m right of SZ (behind the Gymea Lilly) below right end of high section.

Hard moves up crack to finish on ledge (old carrot and good cams). Please don't trash the Lilly.

Start: As for F.P.

Higher level traverse. Up F.P to top then traverse right on jugs.

Right of green camelot wall. Middle line at the end of the brake traverse.

Short offwidth in between Giles and Kim's moon project. Start above bush. Pretty good, no cheater holds. Too wide for hand stacks. Can bump a #6 cam the whole way up. Rap off bolts either side. Tom Bes FA

Up the crack. New lower offs 2021.

Start: Behind the block 2m left of SCoA.

Up the offwidth and flake above. The block is off limits. Place gear in top from block before you start to protect fall onto block. Ugly.

Up left side of big cave and keep heading up. Old rusty carrot and two new ones on top for belay (although one had too big a head for any of my bolts plates to fit.)

Far right side of crag. Clip useless FH at waist then step off ground and up thin left facing flake.

Start: below obvious crack through overhang.

Up the crack then through the overhang.

Around the corner from the blank wall. Face climbing between arete (nice project?) and worthless crack.

Offwidth in the middle of the main wall. Hand/fist for days with some ok feet thrown in. Top out to the left of overhanging block. Sling around tree back and to right for rapping off. Placed 09/2021. Tom Bes

Heady trad slabbing for a 15. New lower offs 2021.

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'.

Great trad climbing, plugging cams into Arapiles style rock. 20m right of the main wall on an orange section. Long reach to first break and up to ledge and easy wall behind. Good cams (3 small ones to start, then small to hand size), someone has drilled holes in all the wrong places also.

Start: Just right of big gum tree.

2 BRs and mid size cam. Great Climbing.