Routes in Tasman Peninsula

R of TCFBS via 7 carrots

Start to right of arete and finish same as Midlife Crisis, do not use the top of boulder until the finish.

The left side of the pocketed wall, with a tricky finger crack up high.

The striking flake / off-width. Jam, layback and struggle up the prominent line to a lower-off. Take a couple #4 and #5 cams. Quite unique, and not bad for this sort of thing. Lower-off.

The right most route on the main wall at the Parrot Shelf, starting just left of a low nose. Up and through awesome pocketed wall. Your faith that there will be protection will be rewarded.

Locate a pair of carrot bolts in horizontal rock on top of the pillar, these may be covered by foliage. Alternatively look for the DBB at the end of the third pitch close to the carrots described earlier. The DBB can be reached from the top and is in vertical rock on the north-east side of the pillar 30cm over the edge. Abseil with a 60m fixed rope, or, if brave, abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a medium wire (No 5 Rock) and Cams 0.4,0.5,0.75, 1 (BD C4s). The route is equipped with a mixture of stainless expansion bolts with hangers and (bash-in!) stainless carrots, and is somewhat runout in places. There could be another pitch below.

1. 25m 24 Move up a slight flake crack on the R, via the 0.4 and 0.5 camalot, and pull left onto the arête at a fixed hanger. Climb with increasing difficulty via carrots and some fixed hangers to a slight runout to the belay.

2. 25m 24 Continue up the arête on slightly worsening rock , where a #5 Rock eases tricky moves up to a short crack. Again there is a slight runout to the belay, but a 0.75 cam helps.

3. 10m 19 Climb the groove to a carrot, step R and go up a solid hand crack past a second carrot to the top.

Steep jamming with a nice bulge a half height. Looks 3 grades harder and is an absolute delight. Take a #4. Lower-off.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

The king line of this cliff and also the best.

Find the I've Heard it all Before rap anchors under a small bush near a cairn. -43.2063 147.8661

The rap in is the first crux, particularly the bottom pitches. Pre-equip the crux pitch to keep rope out of the drink when pulled. You may need to back-clip your way down a couple of the abseils.

Many parties fix a rope to knock out the first few raps, but a 70m (and probably a 60 too) will get you down easily.

1. 10m 14 From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall. Best to skip this one.

2. 35m 24 Money pitch. Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps. Pre-equip badly placed 2nd bolt with long draw for drag and self preservation.

3. 40m 22 Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof. Continue up slabs above to the chill out ledge.

4. 15m 20 Plug in a medium cam then up the wall to a reach crux at top.

5. 20m 23 Head up and right through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top.

6. 20m 22 Move R around the arête to crack, then then up the thin layback crack above.

7. 15m 21 Continue up the corner above. Some cams required. Used to be 19 but some holds broken?

8. 20m 17 Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge.

9. 5m 8 Scramble easily out as for IHIAB.

Suggested gear list: Double ropes (or a single 70m) and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.

Killer climbing. Tricky start through the shallow groove to a rest, then continue above through the crack system to a stance below a rooflet. Climb through the rooflet and up the featured face to a final mantle and lower-off. Good rock, good pro and great climbing. Take wires and plenty of finger sized cams.

The appealing hand crack. Lower-off.

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

Simon Mentz bolted the arête 2-3m R of Jihad. It has sucked a few people off route who wanted to do Jihad. DRB at the top.

Be careful with your cam placements or you might lose them forever. Crank up the intermittent cracks to a stance, then continue delicately up the narrowing crack line and steepening face to the top, with good wires and small cams. Lower-off.

Brilliant, sustained climbing up the attractive crack in the centre of the buttress. As good as it looks. Lower-off.

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap :IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

Start: Follow the Cape Huay track (1.5 Hrs) all the way to the the end, don\'t turn off as for the Totem Pole, but continue to un-fenced rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left(looking out). The route is 100m south of the Totem Pole,ie towards Cape Pillar.

1. 15m (24) Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

2. 30m (25) Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

3. 30m (23) Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

4. 25m (18) Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

Good sustained climbing that has cleaned-up well with some traffic. Layback the flakes to a stance, then follow the intermittent cracks to finish up the steep face to the lower-off. Take wires and a single rack of cams to BD #1.

Mostly a sport route - feel free to add another bolt to finish the job. Near the start of Total Recall the cliff changes direction, this route is about 20m to the R. Follow FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot to a double ring lower-off. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route.

1. 15m Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

2. 25m Sport. Fully bolted. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains. The missing first bolt was recently replaced (Dec 2018)

The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4's. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling.

Mouth watering climbing up the flakes and cracks, trending left at the first rooflet to finish up the excellent finger crack (crux). Great rock and pro. Lower-off.

A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off.

Popular variant first-pitch to 'The Free Route'. Mostly Bolts, a few pieces of small trad gear where the climbing is easier.

Up the flakes and crack line with good gear to the final roof, then finish straight-up the headwall. Lower-off.

Clean bulging corner, just north of the point.

1. 25m (25) This pitch doesn't get done much since Deep Play was established, the latter being easier with much lower ropedrag and admin.

2. 40m (25) This is the "money pitch". Mostly Bolts (about 8), a few pieces of trad gear where the climbing is easier.

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

Starts about 60m aboveground in the amphitheatre on the far right of the cliff. The amazing splitter crack line just to the right of the double-offwidth crack on the left side of the amphitheatre. Climbed as 4 pitches with 2 hanging belays: 20 (30m), 19 (30m), 22 (40m), 18 (50m). Take 4x BD cams 2, 3 & 4, single rack otherwise.

Good climbing up the corner just right of Salt Flakes. Gear is adequate, but requires thought and is tricky to place at the crux. Step left to lower-off.

Nice climbing up the box groove, with a convenient tree to rap-off at the top.

A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16

Thin face crack a few metres left of Hippolyte Crack

Left-most crack at top of crag. Climb out using second pitch of skyborne

Takes the chimney 8m R of 'Unzip'. Very pleasant, easy climbing. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.

Starts about 15m to the right of the main corner on a short, steep layback before stepping right at 15m and up a short hand crack to a belay on a spike (20m, 17). Pitch 2 continues straight up the wide crack with incredible heucos the whole way up (40m, 14).

A small climb that’s big on flavour. Start up the handcrack, then move up the left trending diagonal crack system until you can climb the superb face and arete above. Good gear, but a little fiddly after the crux at about half height. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

It's definitely cake! Take the committing line through the left of the enormous roof to the face crack and face to the top. For now rap off a tree near the top. Anchors and a bolt will be installed at some point - somewhat spicy (but safe) topout until this happens.

Micro cams (.1 and .2) and a small (yellow) offset nut or cam recommended.

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap: IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

1. 15m, 24, 2 bolts -Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

2. 30m, 25, 1 bolt - Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

3. 30m, 23 - Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

4. 25m, 18 - Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell.

The prominent arete in the Western amphitheatre on the wedding cake. A contender for the most exposure at the cape. Rappel down arete to small ledge belay stance on climbers left. Recommend inspection, gear where you need it, not where you want it.

Rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim right to an easy ledge just behind the Totem pole.

1. 30m Up chimney / crack

2. 30m More chimney / crack, ending on a good ledge with 2 rings to tyrolean back to the mainland roughly level with the top of the tote.

3. 30m through chimney past big chockstone (on descent it's easy to get your rope stuck on this), then up through looser rock into the sunshine to a rusty anchor.

4. 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

This is the chossiest route to the summit of the candlestick. Although it's the easiest, expect very poor rock and gear the whole way (last pitch excepted)

Hand crack 2 lines across from Baudin. Last couple of metres of p1 aided on first ascent. P2 climb corner, moving R to avoid chimney, into crack with axe-head at top.

The direct start to Anchovy Arete. The start is a little bold but is OK with a good spot, stay below ramp using holds in the stepped seam.

The crack/groove just right of the flake, traversing left to the anchor at the top.

Obvious line about 2m left of Indigo. A few nice face moves up to a hand crack in a corner. Excellent protection.

climb hand crack in the middle of narrow face. zig-zig your way up, stepping out left near the top and traverse right and out to natural belay. try to avoid using right-hand corner

60m Fixed line rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim left not right to ledge with U bolts 2m above water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup tyrolean or swim.

Note 60m fixed line will initially require 10m extension with tag line to span diagonally when being dragged up from start of first pitch.

Loose rock is a possibility on all pitches, hauling of spare ropes and packs is recommended.

1. (18) 30m Steely up corner crack which thins to fingers. Traverse right under roof and out onto finger flakes on face then up and traverse back left to sloping belay ledge with fixed wire. Good sustained pitch.

2. (17) 30m Up corner crack with bridging and hand jamming of various widths. Continue to loose vegetated belay ledge at top with slings around boulder. Good pitch with some small rest ledges.

3. (15) 25m Up wide crack and through awkward chimney sqeeze being careful not to dislodge loose rock. If climbing in single pair then leader will need to trail tyrolean rope up through chimney and flick around arête with help of second otherwise it will get stuck on arête. Continue up cracks and onto belay ledge being mindful of loose rock when choosing anchor pro.

4. (15) 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

Climb left wall of large chimney to L of Shells of Rheban. Not visible from other side of valley.

Takes the left diagonal crack leading out from the corner on the south-facing part of cliff (first part reached when walking along the shore). Rap down the corner to access.

Up the crack and into the compartment, then make your escape by chimneying (crux) and jamming through the roof, finishing up the crack to the top. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

Awkward then pleasant hand jamming up the groove crack to a lower-off.

on the opposite wall from TB, lay back the flake all the way to the top.