Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs White Stack | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mithras | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
18 ~19 | Jack Horner — 2 attempts | 6m, 4 | ||||
Couldn’t clip anchors. Had to do an inverted kneebar second go- Dave just reached past and had no problem.
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19 | ★ Tarzan | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The moves were ok, but fall potential left me nervous. Quite hard.
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Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Cathedral Rock | ||||||
19 | ★★★ With The Angels - with David Gray, jonty | 43m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found the move off belay at start the hardest en route ( short arms). Second pitch just lovely. Led P2 and 3…..
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
23 | Naked Flame | 18m | ★ Good | |||
We came down to consider rebolting with anchors-feels sandbagged at 23 without bridging across chimney. Came to no decision. Weirdly it was chalked up
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Resurrection Shuffle | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
20 | ★ General Discipline — 2 attempts | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Amazed I Onsighted this, so slippery today
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22 | ★ General Benefit — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Hard. Forgot helmet, didn’t feel like leading these spaced bolted climbs.
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Smokin' | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.
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22 |
★★★ Heat Pump
1
Good climbing in its own right
2
Spent ages in the middle shaking out and working out what to do. A few big reaches/ dead points in the first half sapped my energy | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, feels more 22 if short.
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21 | ★ Plastic Extras | 18m | Average | |||
Rpt, seems easier than last year on the mantles
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17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | Average | |||
Rpt, changes every year
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
20 ~21 | Alpine Style | 22m, 8 | Average | |||
Pretty crappy climbing up to a hard and interesting crux sequence. Harder than any move on influenza. Not sure it’s worth the effort, but it filled in the afternoon.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Influenza | 28m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves once in the stemming groove. The 9 th or 10th bolt’s nut was quite loose. I finger tightened it, worth bringing a spanner
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19 | ★★ Princess | 25m, 12 | Average | |||
Rpt, warm up
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point) | ||||||
16 | ★★ Pneisses | 240m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt.
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22 | ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Pension Day | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting enough, found it as tough as the other two, though may have been just reacquainting myself with the Pipes dolerite
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21 | ★ Game On | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Intricate crux at about third height for me that was quite enjoyable. A bit stop/ start from half height
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22 | ★★ Boys Games — 2 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Didn’t find this any harder than the 2 routes to the right ( though did a silly slip below crux).
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★ Black Lab | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad for a late addition, though top a bit contrived and friable
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21 | ★ Guide Dog | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting lower section
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24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Did top section clean from below roof, but rained off after this.
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Thu 20th Apr 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
12 | Five Four | 8m, 3 | ||||
Setting up a Tr for the grandkids. Followed by sprints around the pump track which was far more exhausting
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Tue 18th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
The Panopticon Panopticon South | ||||||
18 | ★ Blue Eyes Crying in the Rain | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, would be great but for the ledges
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14 | ★★ Just Another Day at the Office | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★ The Nose of Il Cappuccino | 20m, 9 | ||||
Pleasant climb for grade
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20 | ★★ Cat Burglar | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Haiku | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fun. Non jammers may not like this
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18 ~19 | ★ Light Fingered Mckenny | 10m, 6 | ||||
Is a 20 on thesarvo. One big move
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18 | Stitched up | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
16 | ★ Chutzpah | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★ Jane | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Still no luck on this crimpy beast. My negative ape factor is obvious on the bottom big move, I’m 5 cm short. Having to dyno will add a few grades. Feels at least 24 regardless going from there.
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag Wave Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Crest | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Felt twice as long as it was, quite thoughtful
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13 ~14 | ★ Point Break | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
More like a sand river 14
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
16 | ★ The Blind Leading The Crippled | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Resurrection | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Interloper | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
20 | ★ Drilling in the Name of | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Phantom Stone Thrower | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Bastard Cancer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Death Unto Racists | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
More back rehab
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
17 | ★ Jesus Built My Hammer Drill | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Weetbix | 11m, 4 | Average | |||
12 | ★ Paradise Found | 12m | ||||
12 | ★ Eye Bolt Route | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Twilight Groping | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt, testing out the back carefully. It’s kind of nice to touch rock, even if it’s waterworks….
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Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Mystery cliffs | ||||||
Zone 1 | ||||||
20 | Bridge over the Mersey | 25m, 8 | ||||
FFA, such amazing rock, need to bring anchors to top of wall, but won’t be doing much for a while.
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16 | Louisach | 25m | ||||
FFA
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22 | ★ Kick the Waves | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
FFA, the last thing I did before the back went ping while camping later that night.
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Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - Sisters Beach | ||||||
Corruption Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Harzweg | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Felt sketchy in the spooge
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18 | ★ The Rapist — 2 attempts | 15m | Average | |||
If I knew this was my second last day climbing for 6 weeks I would have gone somewhere else. Awful spoogy conditions in the howling on shore
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Salmonella Crack | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder for me due to large hand size than DC. Spent the mid section with a hand in a cam hook configuration. The chimney felt like a relief!
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Divine Comedy | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The pitch only. The hype is worth it, what a great crack. Nice size for girl hands, varied throughout, it just keeps going. Only downer was the increasing weight of the mega rack Dave used. Seems like it had been done yesterday, so maybe was cleaner than normal. Shame the top pitch isn’t clean, it actually looks like it would be good climbing. Comments from yesterdays ascent made me laugh. That may have been me before I learnt to hand jam…
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Thu 16th Feb 2023 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
20 | ★ Hue Bris — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Despite the weather forecast saying it’s fine it was raining and rather slippery
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Tue 14th Feb 2023 - Blackwood Rocks | ||||||
American Woman Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ruchipa | 25m | ||||
Very dirty, and horrible start. If you are short just step on partners knee….
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20 ~21 | ★★★ Drop Zone — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found the moves to annd around the second bolt hard. The rest was really pleasant.
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22 ~21 | ★★ Elendil — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought easier than drop zone, and liked it more. A little tricky to on-site I guess.
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Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★ No Standing | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thanks to whomever put in the new anchors since I was last here. This I think is my favourite route in the gorge. Got here a bit late, and it was damn hot, so had a single go to reacquaint myself, with one slip on the lower part, then time to go packrafting the Gorge!
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19 | ★★ No Parking | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, excellent crack
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Shady Side Dammit Area | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dammit — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well the start and end were good, suspect some rope assistance through the low crux and the upper one needed more work. Spent some time brushing someone else’s excessive chalk and tick marks- lest anyone think it was us, but it needs a good shower to clean it off. Will have to get fitter and return
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Wed 8th Feb 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
17 | ★ Datsun Sunny | 14m, 8 | Crap | |||
Even weirder bolt placement. Perhaps an early attempt at the dark art? Maybe I was just grumpy because it was freezing and climbing in mist and there didn’t seem any point getting on the better routes up here
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16 | Ford Prefect | 12m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
A plus for bolt camouflage but minus a couple of stars for contrivance and bolt placement.
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Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | |||
2 goes, unlocked a bit of beta, got rained off
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Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Icarus | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the last 2 pitches in 3. Stopping at the notch seemed sensible. I led the last bit only which was not bad, but the crack below was good, though the chimney exit felt hard
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Mon 30th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Ultrasound | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I had to divert back into holiday after falling off the thin finger crux to make upward progress then moved right again. The stalactite feature was amazing but vibrates.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes University Buttress | ||||||
21 ~22 | ★★ Terra Nullis — 2 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I thought Peregrine ( 23) was easier than this, onsighted everything except the crux which was hard, especially with less reach. Got quite spooked above the crux, great exposure.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | ||||||
19 | ★ The Unrideable Chicken | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Really nice moves and rock up top
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18 | ★ Gone Viral | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
The top half was good
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18 | ★ Sleeping Dogs | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Felt Contrived
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16 | The Bentwood | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Long moves between horizontals
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Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
23 |
★★ Peregrine
— 2 attempts
1
21
25
Rock quality was not inspiring. A finger sized cam at the top would prevent a ledge fall
2
23
20
Finger size cam at start would be useful. Onsighted all the moves but could not get the 8 th draw on, spent about a minute of increasing pump. The thread sticks out 2cm blocking the small hanger. Was level with it, and of course could have moved to the other side of the arete, but I was feeling out there already. Did it second go. | 45m | ||||
Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes University Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★ Sparkle — 3 attempts | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We went direct via some great bouldery moves. I couldn’t reach the way Dave did to a good hold way right, but managed to figure out a tough way whereby I thought my heel would snap if I fell, so did it on TR clean after two lead goes and aiding through crux on first go. Going direct seemed more 24 at my height. The flake to the right of the third bolt rocks and although keyed in at the moment may loosen or come out if someone yarded on it. We actually liked it, includes staying on face past 3 Rd bolt. Dave also did the arete finish.
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19 | ★★ 19 Shades of Grey | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Quite good, a direct finish would work but at the moment feels run out and makes you head left
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19 | ★ Sun Stealer | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought better than route to the right
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16 | ★ Catch the Sun in Flight | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Deserves a star, interesting climb
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Skidrow Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Skidrow | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky crack size
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23 | ★ Short and Sweet | 8m | Average | |||
Painful and not appealing
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27 | Experimental Method — 2 attempts | 10m, 3 | ||||
Hadn’t really looked at guide. Great moves to a literal nails crux but I think I could do it, though I was doing a karate kick to the right after matching on the thin rail. Sticking the thin rail was the only move I didn’t do.
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17 | ★ Sitting Bull | 10m | ||||
Did the offwidth to left start because it looked cleaner. Thesarvo has it down as grade 11 which surely must be a typo
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Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | ||||||
22 | ★★ Walk Like an Egyptian — 2 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Logged as attempt because I was setting up and then taking down a rope swing for 10 children and only wanted to get to lip. Quite fun, will return when not raining to finish head wall.
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Fri 25th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ The far right | 50m | ||||
15 | ★★ The Corner | 45m | ||||
15 | ★★ Bill's Line | 50m | ||||
15 | ★★ The Chimney Direct | 50m | ||||
15 | Fashionista | 45m | Average | |||
Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Spray | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice climbing
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21 | ★★★ Light Fingered Maddison | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to climb flake to left and traverse in at 1.5 m good conditions
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Travel Land | ||||||
23 | ★ Mad Moroccan Cabbies | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty tricky delicate slabbing, would feel impossible if spoogy. A bit of brushing helped a lot.
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21 | ★ Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus | 10m | ★ Good | |||
More a high ball boulder, felt 3 grades easier than Tetragrammaton!
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★★ No More Mr Nice Guy | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The traverse was less daunting than it appeared, some awkward positions.
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21 | ★★ Tetragrammaton | 40m | ||||
First pitch clean, second pitch found the lower bit fine but spat off a metre from the top when it’s way too wide for my fists
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Wed 23rd Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
15 | Dislocator crack | 12m | Average | |||
25 | Dislocator Beta | 12m | ||||
Tried this last time I was here, better than it looks
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15 | ★ Knocked In Rock | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice climb despite ledge
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Tue 22nd Nov 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
19 | ★ Dangle | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
Fun enough but glad to have a longer panic draw, every bolt just out of reach
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16 | Whack | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
Nice rockpast the ledge. Stopped hereafter our fall misn to find sun lover area. Setting out from carpark at 3 pm it wasn’t the best choice for a quick arvoclimb
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