Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

Start as for Soft but go up and head left.

Arete past some FH's.

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.

Corner on L with single bolt

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

"The best line of the cliff and one of the best adventure climbs in Australia"

1. 50m (22)

2. 30m (15)

3. 35m (25)

4. 15m (21)

5. 45m (25) As for De Gaulle's Nose Direct

6. 30m (26)

7. 18m (23)

8. 50m (20)

9. 35m (18) As for De Gaulle's Nose

10. 45m (19) As for De Gaulle's Nose

11. 45m (17) As for De Gaulle's Nose

The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left!

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell.

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.

A variant pitch for the third pitch of Laendler and a classic in its own right. Starting and finishing on the same belay ledges. Unrelenting difficult finger-locking.

Shares start with Symptom of the universe then moves right at 5m follows the thin seam

Stick clip high first bolt. A few thugy moves brings you to a sloppey ledge. Mantel then head left & up on good gear.

On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top.

Weird technical right facing corner and arete, with excellent protection. One crack left of Astroboy.

Start up second pitch of Taipan but head out right at the crux and up to boulder problem (levitation required) continue up easy wall and into geranium.

1. Two options for this pitch.

   30m 23

   From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.

   25m 23

   From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above.

2. 15m 17 An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.

3. 25m 22 Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.

4. Two options for this pitch.

   20m 20

   From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot

   20m 26

   The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with bouldery moves near the top. Could be harder! (fully bolted)

5. 30m 23 From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux.

P1. (18) Up NMMNG but continue up and right instead or traversing right. Belay at a comfortable slopy stance. P2. (26) Thin crack on steep arete. Traverse right at roof past a bolt to DBB. P3. (17+) Given 17, sandbagged. Up steep fist cracks top

Closed project, direct extension on Ethereal through the two roofs and technical flared crack on the face. Looks nails.

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

Steep climbing directly up the seams just right of the big blank corner.

A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.

1. 10m 22 Climb up to the 1st bolt on Deep Play, clip this with a long draw then drop back down a few metres to the horizontal break. Traverse left and around the arête to a stance and belay on the east face.

2. 15m 25 Blast up the face for a few metres then traverse onto the right hand arête. Climb this via a tricky and powerful crux sequence to the ledge. Note: stay on the right hand arête: if you head left at the top it will become way run out and even harder.

3. 40m 27 Starting on the big ledge, follow the finger crack (.5 and .2 camolots plus wires) to the left hand arête and first bolt. Up this past 8BR and a few bits of natural gear. Finish as the Free Route.

Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche!

Access is via the Main Face rappels. Alternatively you can rap the route, but you’ll need to bring plenty of spare biners, as the belays are all double FH.

Note that you can’t French free a lot of the hard pitches, and the escape from the base is not pleasant.

1. 50m (27) 'The Drowning Pitch'

2. 20m (21)

3. 45m (24) 'Crazy Sex Pitch'

4. 45m (26) 'Balls in a Juicer Pitch'

5. 35m (23)

6. 15m (24)

7. 50m (25) 'The Golden Corner'

8. 30m (20)

9. 20m (20)

Mostly bolted but trad gear needed on some pitches.

1. 25m (17) Fully bolted

2. 35m (22)

3. 30m (18)

4. 30m (26) Fully bolted. Can pull on the crux bolt and do this pitch at 23 A0.

5. 15m (13)

Toproped clean.

1. 26 Start up steep corner just left of 'Off, Like A Maggotty Cat'. Up this to join original line.

2. 20 Unfortunately continue up this until ledge 15m below summit.

3. 25 Climb short smooth water runnel corner to summit.

unbolted face with DBB

Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Contrived.

The steep bolted line on the north face of the boulder. Good climbing with a thin technical and powerful crux

A Symphony of Rock!

The line of bolts left of Tomorrow's Dream is part of a multipitch being developed that tackles the entire Bare Rock face, around the roof, and up the headwall to the top.

Bring 2 x 60m ropes (or 1 x 80m rope), 16 quickdraws, and plenty of muscles.

P1 - 30m (16) 12 Bolts - "The Easy Slab Pitch" - As for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 1.

P2 - 20m (24) 6 Bolts - "The Funky Roof-Turn Pitch" - Straight up the orange face above the belay, to hard (and funky!) moves getting into the roof, turning the lip and getting established on the face. Easier slab climbing above to belay.

MOVE BELAY UP 5M to RINGS JUST BELOW SHORT SLAB (5m left of Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3).

P3 - 12m (21) 6 bolts - "The Hard Slab Pitch" - Climb the short, technical black slab above. Up past 2 bolts, then traverse right (to avoid very bad rock), and the up via hard moves.

P4 - 45m (23) 14 Bolts - "The Tenuous Traverse Pitch" - Hard moves off the belay around the bulge, then sustained insecure traversing left below the roofs for 4 bolts. Traverse more easily left to below the final roof. Turn the roof, then continue up Black-and-Yellow streaked slab to belay just below The Great Roof. Some strategically placed long runners will be crucial for mitigating rope drag.

P5 - 15m (26) 7 Bolts - "The Outrageous Roof Pitch" - Head directly left from the belay, staying at the same height as the bolts (via desperate sloper-slapping and heel hooking) to a penultimate move to bridge the void between the end of the roof and the Easter-Rising Ledge-system. Stay low (you shouldn't need to touch the Guano) and traverse left along the ledge to belay below the Black Streak. (The next line of Fixed Hangers to the right is Enchanted to a Stone).

P6 - 15m (25) 8 bolts - "The Bouldery Black-Streak Pitch" - Step left off the belay and up past 2 bolts to boudery climbing with a powerful, juggy finale to belay on ledge.

P7 - 15m (24) 7 bolts - "The Technical Stemming Pitch" - Left past a bolt to join Enchanted to a Stone just before the crux of that route. Up through the stepped roofs to belay on top of headwall.

P8 - 25m (12) 6 bolts - "The Junky Exit Pitch" - Just an exit pitch. Head up off the belay, traverse right, up a bit, then more right, and a touch more up to belay at top of cliff. Average rock, but not too terrible.

DESCENT:

Top out, and walk back down the Approach/Descent Gully at the far Right-Hand side (looking out) of the summit of Bare Rock.

Pitches 1 - 4 (up to The Great Roof) can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes down the line of the climb to reach the ground.

For Pitches 5 - 8, you can rap the Easter Rising face to the Belay below Pitch 6 (on the ledge above the Great Roof) being careful not to get stranded in space from the steepness, then rap 30m straight down to a belay on its own in the middle of nowhere. Then rap 35m again diagonally right (looking in) to the anchors at the top of Yesterday's Hero. Be careful not to get the rope stuck in the crack, or to pull any loose rock onto yourself. Then rap 40m to the ground.

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up left hand side of the head wall. Classic power endurance route with a heart breaking last move.

An excellent climb starting in the steep alcove just right of Caligula. Up this to the ledge then blast up the steep face past some small holds to a pumpy traverse right on slopers. Finish up the last section of Hercules.

The central seam line. 7FH's + 2FH DBB

Hard for the grade, but worth the effort. Named for the Subtitle (secondary title) to the Jane Fonda softcore porno: Barbarella.

Links the lower half of Barbarella into the upper part of Velvet Morning via 4 new bolts and 8m of new (and tough) face climbing, eliminating the rests on both routes in the process.

Climb Barbarella to the 7th bolt, and continue through the Shield crux to where it traverses sharply right (just before the 8th bolt). Straight up via new bolt, and continue up passing 3 more bolts to rejoin Velvet Morning at the undercling jug (hold shared with Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs). Step left into Velvet morning passing 3 bolts, and the nails roof-turn to the anchor.

Obvious line through the small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and mantle into the headwall above.

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

Ludicrous steepness in an intimidating position.

1. 25m (26) Start just left of Faeries Wear Boots/Into the Void, and right of the ramp start to Peppa Pig. Stick clip 2nd bolt. Be careful clipping 3rd bolt. Up through the steeps and then left left left forever covering some outrageous terrain.

2. 30m (20) A worthwhile pitch in its own right that can be rapped into from the top if you aren't up for pitch one.

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

Direct start to fawks, less pumpy, more bouldery. Better, more sustained finished to trend right at the top but can be finished up fawks original as well.

Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure.

About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch.

Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).

1. 20m (26 M1) Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete and into corner until its possible to clip bolt on right side of corner. Aid off this to gain opposing holds on either side of blunt arete, and continue freeing for the rest of the pitch. Funky, exposed, gymnastic steep climbing, with as much down as up. Finish at Green Spandex belay.

2. 20m (27 M1 R) Climb the first 2 bolts of Green Spandex, then truck right following horizontal weakness. At 2nd new bolt (4th bolt total), clip and aid off bolt to gain reinforced jug further right. Then continue freeing along technical rising traverse until last bolt, then head directly up to gain 2 bolt belay.

NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall.

To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream.

Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors.

The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.

starting at a large right-trending flake. Lovely moves at about grade 22 to half-height then sticky fingers required for a series of thin crimps and gaston moves, before trending right for a tricky conclusion up to the anchors.

Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem.

This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.

Undercling to offwidth. Originally given 27. Second ascent 15 years later downgraded to 25. Use the line of holds just right of bolts and preclip 2nd bolt. Start is now 22.

Garry’s hard RHV to pitch 4 if TGB. All bolts (10-12 on the pitch). Amazing climbing on excellent golden dolerite with some fantastic tricky sequences in the last half.

"A mind-bending excursion up the awesome orange shield"

Follow the orange crack on to the face then out the top roof. World class.

The furthest line R on this bit of the wall. Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped.

The line goes straight up the middle of the wall. Intense and bouldery

To the right of the big corner crack on the left side of the cliff is a line of bolts up a faint weakness, beginning in a short corner with a finger crack. Nice climbing up the finger crack and face to the small overlap where the hard climbing begins. A series of powerful, awesome moves up to the anchors

Right side of arete to DBB