Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

Best route at the crag, the left hand line of bolts on Tomahawk Buttress. Crank up the overhang to a crux about 1/3 height, then all way to anchors via a technical face below the victory jugs. Awesome route

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

Climb Vapour Trail for 25m to a DBB. Make sure you go to the anchor on the left and not the one for Give A Dog A Bone. Sustained climbing, big moves on big holds.

"A mind-bending excursion up the awesome orange shield"

Follow the orange crack on to the face then out the top roof. World class.

The left line of bolts on the main overhang

Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.

Roof climbing, finishing on the starting hold of Rumble. Sit start of jugs in cave about 5m right of Rumble.

Update: The final move linking Bongo in the Congo into Rumble in the Jungle has broken and further deteriorated in around 2013/14? The linking move is now considerably harder and Bongo in the Congo including the last move now goes at around V6. Historical Grade, V4..

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall.

P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock.

P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch.

P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half.

P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay.

P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall.

P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4.

Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit.

Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Classy and sustained climbing, deserves more attention.

Some of the best moves on the pipes. The two north facing arêtes of Albert's Tomb.

Tricky mantle to fridge hugging finish.

SDS under lip 3m right of RITJ (1m left of corner). Same start holds as Flat Head. Up on slopes & crimps.

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

The short slab of immaculate stone under the roof requires steel fingers and some fancy footwork.

Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole.

Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble.

Climb gambit but at second last bolt head left via. a big move for a slightly easier finish.

Right of fire starter, solid tick for the grade.

Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory.

Sit start off good jug just above left hand end of low rail. Straight up to pocket and sidepulls and over bulge

Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up.

Central route up the wall with bouldery crux at second bolt and another hard move at the top. WARNING: LOOSE BOLTS! As of Dec 2017, the first hanger has fallen off, and bolts 3, 4 and 5 need to be tightened before they can be climbed on.

Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

### Unfortunately the Owl has gone missing. ### Would be nice to find some fun replacement rock/s we could paint or keep as grip-lifting challenges.

Pinch and lift the owl painted rock with one hand. Pinching from the top.

Rules if you want a clean by the book send: To "send" The owl lifter must fully straighten up (back erect, legs and hips locked out); once standing straight, the lifter must maintain control of the owl for 1 second. Then lower the owl controlled way maintaining grip until the owl has returned to the ground.

SDS 2m right of TCLD. Up and out through improbable big roof.

Up the steep face just to the right of the arete.

Currently closed pending Aboriginal Heritage assessment.

Right of Block O'Clock. Start as for Cock Block but continue straight up the guts of the face. Thin and technical with a great sting in the tail.

Amazing line up the middle of the steep face.

Currently closed pending Aboriginal Heritage assessment.

A Symphony of Rock!

The line of bolts left of Tomorrow's Dream is part of a multipitch being developed that tackles the entire Bare Rock face, around the roof, and up the headwall to the top.

Bring 2 x 60m ropes (or 1 x 80m rope), 16 quickdraws, and plenty of muscles.

P1 - 30m (16) 12 Bolts - "The Easy Slab Pitch" - As for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 1.

P2 - 20m (24) 6 Bolts - "The Funky Roof-Turn Pitch" - Straight up the orange face above the belay, to hard (and funky!) moves getting into the roof, turning the lip and getting established on the face. Easier slab climbing above to belay.

MOVE BELAY UP 5M to RINGS JUST BELOW SHORT SLAB (5m left of Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3).

P3 - 12m (21) 6 bolts - "The Hard Slab Pitch" - Climb the short, technical black slab above. Up past 2 bolts, then traverse right (to avoid very bad rock), and the up via hard moves.

P4 - 45m (23) 14 Bolts - "The Tenuous Traverse Pitch" - Hard moves off the belay around the bulge, then sustained insecure traversing left below the roofs for 4 bolts. Traverse more easily left to below the final roof. Turn the roof, then continue up Black-and-Yellow streaked slab to belay just below The Great Roof. Some strategically placed long runners will be crucial for mitigating rope drag.

P5 - 15m (26) 7 Bolts - "The Outrageous Roof Pitch" - Head directly left from the belay, staying at the same height as the bolts (via desperate sloper-slapping and heel hooking) to a penultimate move to bridge the void between the end of the roof and the Easter-Rising Ledge-system. Stay low (you shouldn't need to touch the Guano) and traverse left along the ledge to belay below the Black Streak. (The next line of Fixed Hangers to the right is Enchanted to a Stone).

P6 - 15m (25) 8 bolts - "The Bouldery Black-Streak Pitch" - Step left off the belay and up past 2 bolts to boudery climbing with a powerful, juggy finale to belay on ledge.

P7 - 15m (24) 7 bolts - "The Technical Stemming Pitch" - Left past a bolt to join Enchanted to a Stone just before the crux of that route. Up through the stepped roofs to belay on top of headwall.

P8 - 25m (12) 6 bolts - "The Junky Exit Pitch" - Just an exit pitch. Head up off the belay, traverse right, up a bit, then more right, and a touch more up to belay at top of cliff. Average rock, but not too terrible.

DESCENT:

Top out, and walk back down the Approach/Descent Gully at the far Right-Hand side (looking out) of the summit of Bare Rock.

Pitches 1 - 4 (up to The Great Roof) can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes down the line of the climb to reach the ground.

For Pitches 5 - 8, you can rap the Easter Rising face to the Belay below Pitch 6 (on the ledge above the Great Roof) being careful not to get stranded in space from the steepness, then rap 30m straight down to a belay on its own in the middle of nowhere. Then rap 35m again diagonally right (looking in) to the anchors at the top of Yesterday's Hero. Be careful not to get the rope stuck in the crack, or to pull any loose rock onto yourself. Then rap 40m to the ground.

Sit start on two opposing sidepulls, up through the slopers

Start in slot, out to slopey edge, fire for lip, continue to top on average holds. Sometimes a little sandy after it hasn't been climbed for a while, but a real classic.

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

SDS to Passchendaele

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

Harder than it looks.

An excellent climb starting in the steep alcove just right of Caligula. Up this to the ledge then blast up the steep face past some small holds to a pumpy traverse right on slopers. Finish up the last section of Hercules.

Sit start on the jug, climb straight up, avoiding the left hand diagonal. Can be done as a stand start at about V3.

Access is via the Main Face rappels. Alternatively you can rap the route, but you’ll need to bring plenty of spare biners, as the belays are all double FH.

Note that you can’t French free a lot of the hard pitches, and the escape from the base is not pleasant.

1. 50m (27) 'The Drowning Pitch'

2. 20m (21)

3. 45m (24) 'Crazy Sex Pitch'

4. 45m (26) 'Balls in a Juicer Pitch'

5. 35m (23)

6. 15m (24)

7. 50m (25) 'The Golden Corner'

8. 30m (20)

9. 20m (20)

Left hand on the arete at a little higher than head height, right hand on the crimp far right at a fairly wide span. Slap your way up the arete on the left and tricky big moves up right will see you mantle right over the nose of the boulder.

1. Two options for this pitch.

   30m 23

   From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.

   25m 23

   From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above.

2. 15m 17 An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.

3. 25m 22 Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.

4. Two options for this pitch.

   20m 20

   From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot

   20m 26

   The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with bouldery moves near the top. Could be harder! (fully bolted)

5. 30m 23 From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux.

Climbs the arete + face around the corner of Fighting The Authorities without using any of the face holds of FTA

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors.

The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.

Superb pitch, but one of the last routes on the cliff to feel 'in condition'. The move right to the tooth from the obviously salty undercling is greasy but you can work this with some creative body tension.

The arete with many, many bolts immediately right of Who Among Them.

Obvious line through the small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and mantle into the headwall above.

Sit start at sidepull 2m left of the arete. Move right to the arete and climb up the steep side of the arete, moving right at the top.

Stand start the arete and climb to the top. A good alternative if you find you can't do the opening move to the previous problem.

Start as for firewall but head left and up the sustained headwall.

5 metres to the right of Le Petit Pillier is a very nice compression line. Sit start with a hand on each arete and a good left foot, strenuous from there. Stay away from the ominous hole on the left and top out straight via slightly sketchy but fun mantle directly up the lower face.

Start directly under the waterfall,upwards to the top ledge however you please, then begin your traverse left through some awesome moves, and surprisingly outstanding Crimps and ledges, to the final spicy move, a lot of foresight into this route from one of the emperors of the colloseum

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

Direct finish to Hercules has a vicious boulder problem guarding the chains.

Hang-start on the lip and campus up.

Same start as Sub Zero, up to pocket, finish on the next pocket straight up. no more holds to go further

Traverse the entire cliff from left to right.

Low start to Stopped by the Fire, start with your left hand on the good edge sidepull and right hand all the way down underclinging the boulder.

traverses leftwards out of the cave to finish up the large corner. goes left on edge rails to a flat jug at bottom of corner. sit start in the cave.

A link up that climbs first 3 bolts of Unrequited going right into Tomahawk

Start way down on the lowest flake. Climb out of hole to slopers, then continue to the lip.

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up left hand side of the head wall. Classic power endurance route with a heart breaking last move.

The arete right of 'It’s in the Veins.' DBB.

SDS. Climb the steep left arete on pockets.

Start left hand on undercling, right hand on thin sloper, up left to gaston and good flat edge, then back right to undercling and upwards into the swoop. From here, stay on the swoop and head straight up for a hard and committing finish.

Mostly bolted but trad gear needed on some pitches.

1. 25m (17) Fully bolted

2. 35m (22)

3. 30m (18)

4. 30m (26) Fully bolted. Can pull on the crux bolt and do this pitch at 23 A0.

5. 15m (13)

A fantastic problem. Start right back under the roof sitting on the waist high boulder. Follow the line of least resistance out the roof for 5m then punch through the crux moves on pockets turning the lip.

Up the black streak to a technical crux at the second bolt, then up the sustained orange face above.

Sit start on flake in middle of block, move left and up to mantle via left arete and right sidepull above flake. Surprisingly good problem! Don't use holds to the right of left block.

Start as for Reservoir Dogs, head right and up to slopey crimp, do reachy move to the right traversing into and finish for Dis-Abeled.

Start low and left with right hand on a bad sloper in the roof. Move up and right, avoiding the jugs on the centre of the face, finish up the right side of the face.

Sit start with left hand on decent sloper rail, right hand on wide open pinch on arete, follow arete to top out

The last current climb on the wall, technical fingery climbing.

Start as for One For The Money on good hold at head height, head straight up to an undercling for your right and nothing for your left to big finishing move to gain the lip, then mantle

Beta: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/46X9EaZ9Zx4

The overhanging face of the large boulder opposite the entrance to the driftwood hut.

Metolius hangers up the centre of the wall. Just left of Temper.

Steep and powerful moves following obvious groove to the top.

An amazing climb. Follow the pockets through the biggest part of the roof.

Climb past two small bulges through bouldery moves to a thin vertical seam and a brief respite at a side-pull jug before a final few strenuous moves back left to gain the anchors. Climbing straight up from the jug via the dirty crack knocks off a grade and the star.

Spectacular, steep and sustained. One of the finest routes of this grade and style in Tasmania. (fully equipped). Start 25m right of The Meaning and climb the left trending dyke to DBB above pitch 2 of Highway to Hell.