Routes in Melbourne and Surrounds

SDS left side of the arete

This is a very short route on the shorter portion of the wall. This route only uses the plug and feather masonry drill holes for the hands. Standing start with both hands on the undercling drill holds that are 75cm up from the ground, there are two more hand holds 90cm directly up from the start holds. This boulder is just an awkward start. Good introductory climb for these sorts of routes on this wall (Many of which have bird names, hence the name of this route)

The lowest side of Kid Rock boulder presents a devil of a mantel straight off your bum on the ground. Small but beautifully formed. Low ball as they come.

Location TBC... Stand start on the obvious jug loaf layaway. Long moves between good edges to gain the big horizontal holds at 4m. Part 2 will continue to the top at V8/9, while a Vheavy sit start waits for they who can campus 1-6

sit start at the break. Head up the face via a nice pocket.

Climb up to the triangle capstone and traverse to the next capstone using only the sloping hold at the top of the wall. Note that if the grass is growing too tall this route is pretty much impossible to do if it is covering the low footholds near the end

Start where the old and new parts of the bridge meet with both hands on the good top edge of the second row. Follow R2L avoiding all drainage holes, wet holds and slime, with hands only on the second row. Finish with both hands on the good edge at the corner.

The arguably slightly harder southern ramp of the meteor hammer boulder. Sit start and go all the way out the front to finish.

A bit gritty. On the boulders approximately 50m NW of Tanatalus. Sit start under the arete with obvious groove/flake feature. Much easier from a stand.

Easy crack on back of boulder.

The excellent parallel seams/grooves on the back (East) side of the boulder. Start on boulder with left hand crimp and crystals for right. Hard move stepping off the boulder (will be much easier if you can reach the pocket or seams) then surf the line to a cool finish. ABSEIL DESCENT!

Left hand end of wall

Eliminates the arete of STS for hands, feet and hooks and also the big juggy blob at the top of the lower face (mostly so it doesn’t fall off and kill you). Sit start as for sally (or lower if you can do it without Arete). Hard first move to obvious sloper just inside the arete about a metre above the RH start hold then left to juggy horn. Move up past tree without using it (the tree, not the horn 🤦) to gain good holds on mossy upper arete and face to top out. Best not to fall off above tree. Actually climbs pretty well for contrived nonsense.

Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle.

Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle.

Start on the slabby ramp above the terrace. Follow the line of chopped bolts left of the arete. Harder if you don't use the arete.

Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.

SDS as per Under The Nose. Out through the roof.

In Yosemite some fool would have crawled in and thrutched their way to glory before grading it 5.9. Much better sit or stand start on great edges on the nose up left of Blackwood arete. Traverse up left to the gaping maw… look in, tremble then do the only sensible thing and undercling out to the lip/arete on the left side of the chimney. Power up via some slopey burley moves to gain jugs at the top, traverse left and simply step off into the boulder. Quite cool.

Direct up the slab about 2m right of Arbold Sane - through a tiny overlap.

Climb the left arete/crack without the side wall.

Start on top of the boulder, and circumnavigate the horn. Add a few grades if you avoid the detached block as a foothold. 3 stars if this is your kind of thing, less than zero if you like your forearm skin.

From the sit start to The Pinch traverse diagonally up and left across the face of the boulder avoiding the jugs immediately reachable from the first move.

Located in the gully several metres right of Myth of Tomorrow. Takes the face and rounded arete past a couple of carrots. Trad / rusty carrot belay, walk off. FA unknown

Traverse. Starts as “Facing Tiliqua”. Once you’ve transitioned to the inside face continue left in to “Exit Plan” and out finishing on the arete above “Lichen It”.

Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux. Or better and harder as Howling Wolf (same grade).

Open project.

Sit start. Up using the split finger pockets to latch the slippery sloping pocket to jugs of Scrimshaw Traverse. Finish either left or right.

Middle of right hand slab.

Some sick puppy is gonna want to chicken wing up this off-width. Is it you?

Start as for Courtyard, traverse left through big pocket to mantle onto slab and top through pockets.

Coretastic sit start direct under prow (again, stacking to LH layaway jug is out or about V2). Up via opposing side pulls to interesting mantle.

Crack on the right side of the block

Behind the big free standing pillar. Climb the overhanging splitter and intermittent edges. Full of mud despite my best efforts.

Pop or reach good but very sharp jug on left arete of The Golden Egg. Easily on sharp jugs up up and away.

Re-bolted with 5 glue in bolts and rap rings 21.6.2003

Start as for Split Images and then continue as for Law Enforcer

On the block immediately E from Virgin Summit Tor.

Green holds

New ring bolt at start protects step onto climb from rapidly decaying tree. Enjoy! Can also be approached via slab from right (carrot) at same grade.

Red holds

Sit start with RH in pocket. Crux is mantle. V3/4.

The north-facing, left-leaning offwidth. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Never Tell Me The Odds. An amazing climb that gradually fades to fist, then to hands, then fingers but doesn't let up! Anchors installed for safety March 2018.

Probably soft if you’re tall and/or can jump... but take care not to tear your right pinky off!! Stand start at chest height slope and pocket gaston on the Radness (or lower if you’re up for it). Establish feet and Dyno to radness finish jugs up right. No popping from the ground peeps! Easy high finish. Even better link it out of the Radness start!

starting crouched on the left hand side of the vertical face, using arete for the left and crimps/jugs up the face for the right.

Left side of pinnacle after pulling around cap. RB, 2BR. BB

Arete. Solo FA

Slab between overhand and corner on R hand side of East Face

Walk back from the road past the start of Dodgy Curry / Suspect Sushi to the substantially shorter boulder immediately behind.

Sit start just to the left of the crack which goes up off to the right. Straight up.

Hairline crack R of Rover, with very little protection. A no.3 RP protects the slab below the horizontal break.

When your route gets lost between the lichen and the moss. Stand start on two edges. Then delicately up on crimps to the left.

PTYP sit first moves to edges then traverse hard right at same level (not up to large lay away or jugs in the scoop of PTYP) via some tech thin moves to gain blunt arete. Up via slopey edges to gain right end of scoop and up. Someone’s done some brushing here recently... who knows if climbed. Can be climbed from a low stand on the blunt arete at about V4 and will have a very hard direct sit start.

Left leaning crack.

Capital Fest to the cross hair pocket, then veer slightly right climbing the face without the cracks either side.

As for Mob Rule, but traverse R under 1st BR and the up to high BR on R.

SDS Corner crack

SDS Corner

aka Death by a Thousand Cuts. Pretty meaty at the grade. Long Road Home into DIM.

Start far right with good pinch on the arete for your right and small crimp pinch for the left. One powerful campus gets you to the rail and on from there. Unsure of the grade

SDS on opposing sidepulls

The slabby narrow wall immediately right of Hazy Monkey.

Crack at left end of the cliff

Sharp prow 3m right of Thurn and Taxis Roggen. SDS via shelf on the nose and positive breaks.

2 BR. Although a sport climb; take a size #1 cam to protect the 2nd at the top.... the belay is a long way across.

Traverse the wall on the City side of the road only using the blocks 5 and under. #traverse

Groove on boulder directly uphill of the Font Boulder