Routes in Victoria for selected grade

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the Bluffs climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential; consider using a suitable running tether. Start 15m R of Bygone, under the huge left-facing corner system, behind Fang Buttress.

Jeu do paume. Combined with 'Key hole Scramble', a useful access to or egress from the Tennis Court.

Start on the ledge below 'French Crack'.

Traverse right into the bay ('Five Fingered Mary') to an exposed step around and up the rib. Possible belay at chains ('Horus') to reduce rope drag. Scramble onto the Tennis Court.

Beautiful rock but the 20+ year-old sling will need replacing. Originally written up as starting up 'Dead Fox' after mis-identifying the easier climbs in the area.

The descent ropute. Easy corner nearest the carpark. Colin Mibus used this route for ascent/descent eons ago with his .22 to frighten bunnies.

. On the the North wall (the first wall you reach).

Up the crack, with a ledge and small pine at half height. A poorly protected alternative finish is further to the R, the arete L of 'Odlid Baggins'.

Start: Start beneath the deep wide crack.

Sure Punks was influential, but these route names are getting ridiculous!

Start: Start just R of DPitMotR and just L of 'Cypress'.

Up to the cave, traverse left for 8m below roof, then up tot he top. This is the easiest descent for this area and 'Clicke Wall' if you don't use the rap chain above 'Clicke Wall'.

Easy access up the back of block. Large corner with bulges on easy terrain. Good for setting up anchors at top and for abseil/top rope access to cliff.

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

Short corner around left end of the outcrop.

Up LHS crack

Climb the pockets from a sit start.

Climb the high slab on the left.

Climb the centre of the highball slab on good holds.

Start just right of the arete and head up the highball slab. Easy climbing on good holds. Possibly the same route as 'Flintstones Do The Hump'?

The right hand side of the northern, slabby side, just left of 'Arete'. Up to the ledge, then up water groove to top. (Originally graded 7, but was soloed, so changed to bouldering grades.)

To the right of 'Fridge Hugger', with horizontal crack 2m up. (Originally graded 6, but was soloed, so changed to bouldering grades.)

The rib in the middle of the face. Finish up right crack.

Not an aid route! In the amphitheatre above and right of Cella is a worthless deep groove/chimney in the middle of the wall.

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

Climb the high, easy angled hand crack. Watch the loose block near the top!

This climb is on the back of the 'Meditation' boulder, 30 south of the Raptor boulder and fronting the walking track.

An easy no-hands problem on the uphill side of the boulder.

Sit start on the prominent blocks, then up easily. A fun challenge as a no-hand slab at V0.

Climb the lovely slab on the top tier of the crag using chicken-heads.

Easy way to access upper routes.

1. 42m (5) Follow the crack to a small overhang (upper crack has foliage growing). Up a juggy wall and then head slightly R to a small belay stance.

2. 35m (2-3) Up the juggy wall, passing rappel bolts, and on to belay at Gods Ledge.

Finish up The Knob, Travellers Slab, Gregs Direct or Traverse of the Gods*

Last pitch of Black Streak

On extreme uphill end of wall uphill from Alcove and around L of Sophie. Climb corner and crack.

A fun scramble, good option for quick access to the Jaws area.

800m past The Pinnacles towards The Big Cliff is a major cleft through the cliff. Start the climb on the East side, 1m L of the Cleft. Climb the chimney to a large ledge, traverse 6m R to a large gully which leads to the top.

R side of Kiss the Girls buttress. No Pro

Slabby, holow buttress 70m E of Moorabool Slabs. Arete, starting at tree.

Traverse from ground on L to ground on ER of arête. Solo FA

On the buttress furthest W. R of Breadknife. Climb arête. BB. Solo FA

On W face of R most buttress (Minor Buttress). Small corner then along edge to tree. Solo FA

Up anywhere on the right hand boulder. BB. Solo FA

The corner at left hand side of East Face

Arête. Tree belay. Solo FA

Arete high above and R of Hopi

See topo