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Left Wall Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 226
  • Aka: The Gully

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Wade Meade Raymond Kam Cheddar Victoria Paton Koios Dan sivret Renee Rogge Deadtreeonme

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Left Wall 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.353103, -80.232396

description

First area you come to following the approach trail brings you to this gully

access issues

Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.

inherited from Devil's Glen

approach

Follow the approach trail from the road, follow the trail as it goes west. Down climb at a fallen tree (at about 44.353228, -80.231645) and follow the hallway into the gully.

ethic

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

inherited from Beaver Valley
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nifty Nook

FA: David Smart & Michelle Smart

5.7 Trad
2 Zoot Suit 5.11 Unknown
3 Tough Day at the Office

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

5.11c Sport
4 Iron Maiden

FA: Steve De Maio & Rick Susgin

5.9 Trad
5 Gwelp

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

5.11d Sport
6 Riders of the Storm

FA: Joe Skopec

5.13a Sport
7 Mystery of a Lost History

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

5.12a Sport
8 Il Miglior Fabbro

FA: David Smart

5.11 A1 Aid
9 Chica Loca / Chitta Locca

Same line as 'Il Miglior Fabbro' but retrobolted.

FA: Matt Zavits

5.13b Sport
10 Soul Food 5.13c Sport
11 Back Door

Climb the wide, left facing corner. On your right, when looking into the gully.

FA: John Kaandorp & Steve DeMaio, 1983

5.3 Trad 11m
12 Still Waters

FA: Steve DeMaio & John Kaandorp

5.7 Trad
13 The Argument

FA: David Smart & Michelle Smart

5.8 Trad
14 If You Can’t Have the Mother, Have the Daughter

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

5.7 Sport 11m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Mack The Knife

Originally graded 5.9

FA: Dave Smart, 1985

5.10b Sport 12m, 6
16 45 and French

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

5.10c Sport 17m
17 Mad River Crack

FA: John Kaandorp & Steve DeMaio

5.7 Trad 12m
18 If You Get the Daughter, Watch Out For the Father

FA: Wade Meade & Randy Kielbasiewicz

5.7 Trad
19 North Face

FA: Rick Susgin & Steve DeMaio

5.6 Trad
20 Betty

Start on the arete of the big block/boulder and follow the line of bolts that trend right.

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

5.5 Sport 10m, 9
21 Doin' The Motor Boat

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

5.9 Sport 10m, 7
22 Veronica

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

5.10a Sport 10m, 6
23 Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw

Just to the left of Veronica.

FA: Norbert Kartner & Rob Saint

5.6 Sport 16m, 7

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.3 Back Door Trad 11m
5.5 Betty Sport 10m, 9
5.6 Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw Sport 16m, 7
North Face Trad
5.7 If You Can’t Have the Mother, Have the Daughter Sport 11m
If You Get the Daughter, Watch Out For the Father Trad
Mad River Crack Trad 12m
Nifty Nook Trad
Still Waters Trad
5.8 The Argument Trad
5.9 Doin' The Motor Boat Sport 10m, 7
Iron Maiden Trad
5.10a Veronica Sport 10m, 6
5.10b Mack The Knife Sport 12m, 6
5.10c 45 and French Sport 17m
5.11c Tough Day at the Office Sport
5.11 Zoot Suit Unknown
5.11 A1 Il Miglior Fabbro Aid
5.11d Gwelp Sport
5.12a Mystery of a Lost History Sport
5.13a Riders of the Storm Sport
5.13b Chica Loca Sport
5.13c Soul Food Sport
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