A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Wade Meade Raymond Kam Cheddar Victoria Paton Nick Boldt David Gibbs Koios Dan sivret Renee Rogge Deadtreeonme
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Left Wall / The Gully 23 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Left Wall 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 44.353103, -80.232396
description
First area you come to following the approach trail brings you to this gully
access issues
Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.
approach
Follow the approach trail from the road, follow the trail as it goes west. Down climb at a fallen tree (at about 44.353228, -80.231645) and follow the hallway into the gully.
ethic
Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside
Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Nifty Nook
FA: David Smart & Michelle Smart | 5.7 | ||||||
2 | Zoot Suit | 5.11 | ||||||
3 |
★★ Tough Day at the Office
FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz | 5.11c | ||||||
4 |
Iron Maiden
FA: Steve De Maio & Rick Susgin | 5.9 | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Gwelp
FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz | 5.11d | ||||||
6 |
Riders of the Storm
FA: Joe Skopec | 5.13a | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Mystery of a Lost History
FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz | 5.12a | ||||||
8 |
Il Miglior Fabbro
FA: David Smart | 5.11 A1 | ||||||
9 |
Chica Loca / Chitta Locca
Same line as 'Il Miglior Fabbro' but retrobolted. FA: Matt Zavits | 5.13b | ||||||
10 | Soul Food | 5.13c | ||||||
11 |
★★ Back Door
Climb the wide, left facing corner. On your right, when looking into the gully. FA: John Kaandorp & Steve DeMaio, 1983 | 5.3 | 11m | |||||
12 |
Still Waters
FA: Steve DeMaio & John Kaandorp | 5.7 | ||||||
13 |
★★ The Argument
FA: David Smart & Michelle Smart | 5.8 | ||||||
14 |
★ If You Can’t Have the Mother, Have the Daughter
FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz | 5.7 | 11m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★ Mack The Knife
Originally graded 5.9 FA: Dave Smart, 1985 | 5.10b | 12m, 6 | |||||
16 |
★ 45 and French
FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | 5.10c | 17m | |||||
17 |
★★ Mad River Crack
FA: John Kaandorp & Steve DeMaio | 5.7 | 12m | |||||
18 |
If You Get the Daughter, Watch Out For the Father
FA: Wade Meade & Randy Kielbasiewicz | 5.7 | ||||||
19 |
North Face
FA: Rick Susgin & Steve DeMaio | 5.6 | ||||||
20 |
★ Betty
Start on the arete of the big block/boulder and follow the line of bolts that trend right. FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | 5.5 | 10m, 9 | |||||
21 |
★ Doin' The Motor Boat
FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | 5.9 | 10m, 7 | |||||
22 |
★ Veronica
FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | 5.10a | 10m, 6 | |||||
23 |
★ Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw
Just to the left of Veronica. FA: Norbert Kartner & Rob Saint | 5.6 | 16m, 7 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.3 | ★★ | Back Door | 11m | ||
5.5 | ★ | Betty | 10m, 9 | ||
5.6 | ★ | Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw | 16m, 7 | ||
North Face | |||||
5.7 | ★ | If You Can’t Have the Mother, Have the Daughter | 11m | ||
If You Get the Daughter, Watch Out For the Father | |||||
★★ | Mad River Crack | 12m | |||
Nifty Nook | |||||
Still Waters | |||||
5.8 | ★★ | The Argument | |||
5.9 | ★ | Doin' The Motor Boat | 10m, 7 | ||
Iron Maiden | |||||
5.10a | ★ | Veronica | 10m, 6 | ||
5.10b | ★ | Mack The Knife | 12m, 6 | ||
5.10c | ★ | 45 and French | 17m | ||
5.11c | ★★ | Tough Day at the Office | |||
5.11 | Zoot Suit | ||||
5.11 A1 | Il Miglior Fabbro | ||||
5.11d | ★★★ | Gwelp | |||
5.12a | ★★★ | Mystery of a Lost History | |||
5.13a | Riders of the Storm | ||||
5.13b | Chica Loca | ||||
5.13c | Soul Food |