A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. Černý Petr / Schwarzer Peter 14 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Černý Petr 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 50.839190, 14.210080
Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No toproping if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).
First ascents only after approval of the area administrator Labske udoli first ascent rules and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz for right side, spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz for left side.
Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".
access issues
As of May 2022, according to the Ranger, parking is NOT allowed along the narrow left-bank street. There are only a few places at the ferry in Dolní Žleb. Don't drive to the center of Dolní Žleb (behind railroad) and don't block the road. Arrival via ferry is preferred as the Left-bank street to Děčín is very narrow. Local train operates frequently to Děčín and Bad Schandau with plenty of free parking places in both cities' train stations.
ethic
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Balrog
Nalevo na údolní straně širokou spárou (1. BH) až na vklíněný kámen. Doprava (2. BH) na hranu a tou (3. BH), výše vlevo koutem (4. BH) na bloky v soutěsce mezi Černým Petrem a Tváří. Trhlinou (5. BH) na polici na hraně a hranou (3 BH) ke slanění. Set: Robert Hes & Jiří Chocholoušek, 1 Aug 2018 | VIIIb | 35m, 8 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 |
Vodní svět
Od 2.BH cesty 'El Niňo' doleva a přes 7BH na vrchol. FA: Tomáš Sobotka & Ondřej Beneš, 2002 | Xb | 28m, 9 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ El Niño
Středem údolní stěny, vlevo od cesty 'Hop nebo trop'. FA: František Hochwalder & Petr Laštovička ml., 1998 | IXc | 25m, 6 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Hop nebo trop
V údolní stěně krátce koutem a traverz doleva k 1.BH. Dále při hraně přes 6BH. FA: Pavel Černý & Richard Litochleb, 1996 | IXc | 25m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
Poctivá robota
Vpravo od cesty 'Hop nebo trop'. V údolní stěně koutem, sokolíkem a stěnou do díry a zprava stěnou. FA: Andrej Chrastina & Richard Litochleb, 2000 | Xa | 25m, 7 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Welcome to Mordor
Na údolní straně, vpravo od kouta, ve V stěně spárou přes BH a vlevo stěnou (2.BH) na polici. Koutem na balkón (BH). Vpravo stěnou přes 2BH k 6.BH a pod převisem traverz doleva k 7.BH. Stěnou vlevo přes 2BH a šikmo doprava ke slaňovacímu K. AF VIIb, RP VIIc Set: Petr Laštovička jun., E.Laštovičková & J. Slavík, 2008 | VIIc | 40m, 9 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Těžkej konec / Schweres Ende
Úplně vlevo v Z stěně přes 4BH Set: Michal Burda, 2000 | VIIIb | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 8 |
Veselý teátr / Lustiges Theater
Vlevo v Z stěně přes 3BH ke slaňovacímu BH cesty "Těžkej konec". Set: Jiří Slavík & Pavel Rýva, 2008 | VIIIb | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 9 |
!Balkónová scéna / Balkonszene
Středem Z stěny přes 3BH ke slaňovacímu BH. CAREFUL UNDER THE FIRST BOLT!! Set: Petr Laštovička jun. & Richard Litochleb, 1995 | IXa | 20m, 3 | |||||
| 10 |
Tak akorát / So akkurat
Vlevo od cesty "Kvarteto" přes 3BH ke slaňovacímu BH. Set: Richard Litochleb & Martin Rýva, 1995 | VIIIb | 15m, 3 | |||||
| 11 |
Kvarteto / Quartett
Pravou hranou Z stěny přes 3BH ke slaňovacímu BH. Set: Richard Litochleb & F.Hochwalder, 1995 | VIIIa | 15m, 3 | |||||
| 12 |
Černá magie / Schwarze Magie
Koutem přes BH na polici. Vlevo převislou hranou (2BH) a stěnou přes 2BH na balkón. Stěnou přes 6.BH ke slaňovacímu BH. Set: Petr Laštovička jun. & E.Laštovičková, 2008 | VIIIa | 230m, 5 | |||||
| 13 |
Pravá magie / Wahre Magie
Jako "Černá magie" na polici. Doprava k BH a stěnou ke 3.BH cesty "Černá magie". Set: Petr Laštovička jun. & E.Laštovičková, 2008 | VIIc | 30m, 6 | |||||
| 14 |
Bílá magie / Weiße Magie
Vpravo v Z stěně krátkou hranou (BH) a stěnou přes 2BH doprava do spáry, vlevo na balkón a jako "Černá magie" ke slaňovacímu BH. Set: Pavel Rýva & J.Chocholoušek, 2008 | VIIc | 25m, 4 | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| VIIc | Bílá magie | 25m, 4 | |||
| Pravá magie | 30m, 6 | ||||
| ★ | Welcome to Mordor | 40m, 9 | |||
| VIIIa | Kvarteto | 15m, 3 | |||
| Černá magie | 230m, 5 | ||||
| VIIIb | ★ | Balrog | 35m, 8 | ||
| Tak akorát | 15m, 3 | ||||
| ★★ | Těžkej konec | 20m, 4 | |||
| Veselý teátr | 20m, 4 | ||||
| IXa | !Balkónová scéna | 20m, 3 | |||
| IXc | ★★★ | El Niño | 25m, 6 | ||
| ★★ | Hop nebo trop | 25m, 7 | |||
| Xa | Poctivá robota | 25m, 7 | |||
| Xb | Vodní svět | 28m, 9 |