Ascents in Europe by Tobias Auth

Short but nice slab. More friction than I anticipated.

Tufa feature crux and one reachy move.

Dusty slopers and some weird moves.

Gym like on big holds through the rooflet. Another balancy spot on flowstone. Much better than it looks from below!

Good warm up. 5a/b except two short parts.

It's been a long time since this could have been 6b+. Crux holds don't offer much friction. Couldn't even dog through the crux.

Different but fun! A juggy crack, dihedral and vertical finish. Smooth holds but big footholds.

Felt like the crux of a 5b multipitch. Grade, description as well as topo image in the "versante sud" guide don't fit at all.

Easy-ish first third then seriously hard and sustained! The rather smooth holds probably made me overgrip. Some sequences not obvious/ not onsight friendly. Very challenging for me today. I was glad I could do all moves. Nice wall/ route and a great view! Polished. Conditions ok but probably adding to the difficulty.

Much better than it looks. Like most routes here quite short.

The only completely dry route here today. Nice big moves. Really good for the grade. Easier for the tall.

Cool route! Quite challenging!

We did the rightmost route of the sector. Maybe it was a different route not listed here. 5a sounds about right.

Pleasant, very easy slab to a boulder. Felt quite easy for 6b. Nice view from the top.

Juggy bulge. Quite sharp!

Nice, technical, wandery. 5a/b? Didn't climb enough recently to judge.

One hang. Pumpier than I remember. Not well warmed up.

Surprised myself with an almost retroflash. Fell on the damp top slopers. Everything else bone dry today.

2nd go of the day.

Send/ "onsight", 7 years after the first try.

Retroflash/ basically onsight. Awesome route still. Only just made it. Happy to still never having clipped that piton. Friction almost back to normal. Hoping for better conditions for next time.

2nd go resend after getting the right beta for the top crux. First crux probably significantly easier for me because I can reach the thumbcatchy hold statically from the sidepull hueco.

Top crux beta: [Far left gaston into sidepull-pocket, adjust feet for layback, clip, rest right hand, right crimp of double slot for right hand (don't match this hold later), left foot onto big foothold rail, left crimp further up, right foot high or pull-up to get foot even higher, lockoff again to reach into the slot on the ledge with right hand.]

Gave it a go between Basti's gos. Some hangs to the top.

The holds just below the mantle were quite slippery from the humidity and the lack of brush usage. Got the sequence wrong and took a fall. Somehow caught the rope with my right heel and got flipped. No wall-impact thankfully.

Putting draws in. One hang at the hardish sloper clip position. Couldn't do the top crux. First route of the trip with good friction. Feels like climbing. Awesome.

Hopped on this because someone had a top rope in. Neat slab and very tough overhanging arête! Could not link many moves. Hard to figure out where to position yourself on the arête.

resend

TR attempt in Leo's strong session.

First route of the trip. Average humidity ~98%. Top 3 sweatiest warm-up ever.

Just for fun because the rope was there. Couldn't link anything from the start of the first crux onwards.

TR "send" 2nd go.

Didn't want to commit at the first bolt. Narrow corner.

"Earthy" and without feet, where I went to.

almost retro flash. Then no more friction.

First falls with John. Good route but a very unobvious crux. I tried the wrong sequence at the traverse crux. Tiny and sloping feet in the thin, grey crux. At the traverse go further up than you think – traversing low is pribably possible but incredibly hard.

#repeat 2.5 stars. Probably 3 in good conditions and after brushing! Last route of the trip.

#repeat

I expected condition dependent and I got it. Crux hold high up (mini stalagmite?) was wet or maybe my skin was seeping. Much better than anticipated and really fun! No low crux. Without the cruxy bit at the top it's really fun and techy 6c+ ish. All moves onsight to the wet stalagmite. Everything else dried off well during the day and climbs really well! Recommended!

#repeat Starts to deserve a "b" I think.

I was surprised this did not feel greasy or too smooth. Personal grade as tall person with long arms: 7a. Easier to start (pocket-jug, sidepull-jug, mega-jug) and could skip the mini two finger side pull and reach far left gaston instead. Really fun movement throughout. I was glad Danny picked this because it was not on my list.